Photography Tips for Beginners - 10 Ways to Take Better Photos

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A Beginners Guide to Taking Better Quality Photos

Good quality photos enhance a Hub or other webpage. Composition, exposure, focusing and depth of field are just some of the factors which should be considered when adding images to photo capsules in hubs. These tips apply when using smartphones, compact cameras and SLRs.

In this guide you will learn the basics of how an image is formed in a camera and how to apply techniques to take better photographs for personal use, to sell on microstock agencies or for use on your hub or website.

Exposure

A camera works by focusing light from the subject (the thing or person you are photographing) onto either photographic film or an electronic sensor known as a charge coupled device (CCD), located just inside the back of the camera. Light firstly passes through the lens at the front of the camera, then through an aperture (hole), and finally through a shutter before finally falling on the sensor or film. When a photo is taken, the shutter opens for an instant to allow light into the camera and form a snapshot in time of the scene. The function of the lens is to gather light and create a focused image on the CCD.

Irrespective of whether photographic film or a sensor is used in a camera, a certain amount of light must land on the sensitive element. There can't be too much or too little, i.e. the element has a limited dynamic range. Unfortunately there can be huge variations in the illumination of a subject depending on whether photos are being taken in dim light or bright sunlight. So there are two ways of controlling how much light is allowed into the camera, known as the exposure. Either vary the amount of time for which the light enters the camera or vary the size of the hole through which it passes.

Aperture This is a variable sized hole in a disk behind the lens through which light passes. Basically it works just like the pupil in your eye. Changing the "f - stops", "focal ratio" or "f numbers" setting on your camera results in an alteration of the diameter of the aperture. Large "f" numbers correspond to a smaller hole and less light entering the camera. Small "f" numbers correspond to a larger hole which lets more light in. However the drawback is a reduction in depth of field or range over which objects are in focus. This may or may not be advantageous as we will see below. Typical f stops on a lens are f/2.8, f/4, f/5.6.
For a more detailed discussion of F-number, see the Wikipedia page:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/F-number

Shutter Speed The second way of varying the exposure is by altering shutter speed. Shutter speeds can be varied from tens of seconds to fractions of a millisecond. So why not have a really slow shutter speed to let in lots of light in dim lighting conditions? The problem with low shutter speeds is that when attempting to capture images of moving subjects, the resulting image suffers from motion blur. This is because the shutter is open for such a relatively long time, that the image formed at the back of the camera actually varies because of the motion of the subject. Using a fast shutter speed, allows you to freeze motion. (In olden times, photographic plates, the precursor of rolls of film, were so insensitive that the plate had to be exposed for several minutes).

Film Speed A third way of increasing exposure is to use a faster film speed or the equivalent for digital cameras. A fast film is more sensitive to light, which allows a faster shutter speed or higher f-stop to be used than normal. It is advantageous in situations when light levels are low, the aperture cannot be made any bigger, but a fast shutter speed must be used, reducing the amount of light entering the camera (e.g sports photography). Also if you use a long focal length or zoom lens (which is often the case when photographing subjects in sport), the upper f-stop limit will allow less light into the camera than when zoomed out. This may limit the fastest shutter speed to an unacceptable level, so this is a situation when you can increase the film speed setting. This is normally indicated as "ISO" or "ASA" in the setup of your camera. The drawback of a faster film is a "grainier" or sandy looking image.

So how do you know which to vary? Most modern cameras nowadays provide you with auto exposure. However you still need to understand the consequences and effects of varying shutter speed and aperture size. Depending on the type of camera, there may be no control, little control or a lot of control over exposure settings. Cameras have several exposure modes which try to automatically adjust exposure to make an image appear ok. Which mode you use depends on the application.


Exposure Modes on Cameras

Exposure Modes on Cameras

Shutter Priority You set the shutter speed and the camera then varies the aperture size for correct exposure. If you want to freeze motion, a fast shutter speed is necessary. If you choose too high a shutter speed in low light conditions, the camera may select a large aperture (small f-stop), resulting in a decrease in depth of field (which could be an issue)

Aperture Priority You set the size of the aperture to control depth of field (see Tip 3 below). The camera then changes the shutter speed to suit. If you want a large depth of field in your image, you can make the aperture small. However if you choose too small an aperture (large f-stop), it can result in an unacceptably slow shutter speed. This however depends on lighting conditions.

Program Modes There may be several program modes on a camera. Both aperture and shutter are varied by the software in the camera to give an optimum image.

Manual Mode You change the aperture and shutter speed. The camera doesn't alter the settings, irrespective of light levels

Picking a Shutter Speed to Stop Motion

(click column header to sort results)
   
Movement Left to Right in Front of Camera  
Slight or stationary movement
1/30
Traffic and Pedestrians
1/125
Athletics
1/500
Fast Vehicles
1/1000
Typical shutter speeds for shooting various subjects at 30 feet from camera

Resolution, Pixels and Image Quality

Image Resolution Images are stored in a digital camera with varying resolution which you have control over. The resolution is specified in pixels e.g 640 x 480. You can visualize an image as being like a chessboard, and each pixel is like a square on the chessboard. The greater the resolution, the more detail of the original scene is preserved. Higher resolution images take up more space on flash cards in a camera, require more storage space on a hard drive and take longer to download and process in your image processing package. However since computers have become more powerful, have more RAM and larger capacity disk drives, and USB communication speed has increased over the past few years, this is less of an issue. Adding effects to images or carrying out certain image manipulations can take some time however with high resolution images. If you want to print enlargements of your photos and not just standard 5 x7 s, or crop them (select a section and discard the rest), then the higher the resolution, the better. If you just want to take snapshots, you can opt for a lower res setting on your camera.

Image Quality When you take your photos, they are normally stored in JPG format in your camera. This is an image storage format which compresses images so that they take up less space on the flash card. The result is that some quality is lost. Usually your camera will have an option in the setup to store the image with different qualities (low, medium, high or similar) for a given resolution. In the days when flash memory was low capacity, this was an issue and if you wanted to fit lots of photos on a card, you had to go for lower resolution and lower JPG quality. Now however, this is less of a problem, but users still take photos on their cameras without realizing that they may not have setup the camera to get the highest resolution and best quality image.

An exaggerated idea of how low resolution images capture less detail of a subject
An exaggerated idea of how low resolution images capture less detail of a subject | Source

Tips For Improving Photos

So now, here are some tips.........

Tip 1: Pick a Suitable Background

Try to find an uncluttered plain background if you're photographing objects. You could use grass, sheets of paper, plain colored cloth, the sky etc

Good and Bad Backgrounds

Grass as a background and cluttered background on the right
Grass as a background and cluttered background on the right | Source
The sky can be used as a background
The sky can be used as a background | Source

Tip 2: Focus Properly on Your Subject

Focusing means adjusting the lens on the camera so that the image is sharp and clear. Low end and older camera phones have a fixed lens which can't be focused. Lenses are focused at infinity and if you get too close to your subject, the resultant image will be blurred. The lens on most compact digital cameras and smartphones will auto-focus , and on SLR cameras you may be able to turn the focusing ring on the lens of the camera to manually focus the image (in addition to auto-focusing)

Isolating elements of a photo

Focusing and depth of field (see below) go hand in hand. You need to decide whether you want everything in the image to be in sharp focus, or whether you want to isolate specific elements in the image.

The autofocus on my camera failed to focus on the subject resulting in a blurred image
The autofocus on my camera failed to focus on the subject resulting in a blurred image | Source

Tip 3: Get Your Depth of Field Right

When you focus on a point in an image, points closer to the camera or further away from this point will be less in focus to a greater or lesser extent. The depth of field is the region of an image which is in sharp focus. Sometimes you may want a large depth of field to show everything in sharp focus and add perspective to a shot, at other times it may be better to throw part of the image out of focus, e.g. the background. Large f stops (small apertures) give greater depth of field and small f stops (large apertures) reduce depth of field allowing you to isolate your subject. Also as you move your camera close to the subject, depth of field decreases even if the f stop isn't changed. A third cause of reduction in depth of field is an increase in the focal length of the lens as you zoom in on your subject.

So to summarize, depth of field increases when you:

  • Select a shorter focal length, i.e zoom out
  • Pick a smaller aperture (large f/stop)
  • Move further away from subject

Depth of Field

The right hand image has a larger depth of field because the f stop is greater on the camera (the aperture is smaller)
The right hand image has a larger depth of field because the f stop is greater on the camera (the aperture is smaller) | Source
The background is out of focus because it's not important in this image. Using a shallow depth of field and significantly separating the background from the subject, produces a softly-focused random pattern for the background
The background is out of focus because it's not important in this image. Using a shallow depth of field and significantly separating the background from the subject, produces a softly-focused random pattern for the background | Source
Attention is drawn to the sharply focused blossom in the foreground. A shallow depth of field isolates this portion of the image
Attention is drawn to the sharply focused blossom in the foreground. A shallow depth of field isolates this portion of the image | Source
Again the nut on an old railway line is in sharp focus with the background gradually falling out of focus. There is an element of perspective, but I wanted the nut to be the focal point
Again the nut on an old railway line is in sharp focus with the background gradually falling out of focus. There is an element of perspective, but I wanted the nut to be the focal point | Source
The background mountains and foreground flowers are both nice, so I have them both in focus. This provides a sense of depth or perspective to the scene
The background mountains and foreground flowers are both nice, so I have them both in focus. This provides a sense of depth or perspective to the scene | Source
Again, the background and foreground are in focus
Again, the background and foreground are in focus | Source
The wall extending into the distance gives a sense of perspective
The wall extending into the distance gives a sense of perspective | Source

Depth of Field Indications on an SLR Camera Lens

The curved lines indicate the DOF on the focusing ring
The curved lines indicate the DOF on the focusing ring | Source

Tip 4: Photos Should Be Properly Exposed

Sometimes it's difficult to get the exposure right. For instance if you are photographing a subject which is lit from behind, this will produce a silhouette effect (which may or may not be desired). Also if there is high contrast between objects in a frame, e.g. black and white, exposure can be difficult. Your camera may have an option which allows bracketing of shots, which means taking photos with slightly higher or lower exposure levels than the normal auto exposure would produce. Also you may be able to set the weighting for exposure. Normally the camera will adjust exposure by looking at the average amount of light in the frame. Exposure can also be center weighted so that what is in the center of the frame, on the "cross hairs" is properly exposed

Tip 5: Color Balance

Usually this is automatic on a camera, but sometimes auto color balance produces colors which are not quite natural. Color balance weights, or filters an image to make it look more natural under various lighting sources. Better results can be obtained by choosing the manual settings on your camera, depending on the ambient lighting conditions, rather than the auto setting. Choices include tungsten (for "normal" bulb and halogen lighting), daylight, fluorescent, cloudy and flash.

Tip 6: Use Natural Lighting - Take Photos on a Bright, But Cloudy Day

If you don't have the luxury of an indoor studio with lighting, an alternative is to take photos outdoors. Natural daylight produces great results but bright sunshine can produce ugly shadows in an image, and excessive contrast. Try to take photos on a day which is very bright but semi-cloudy or when the sun goes behind the clouds. Clouds act as a diffuser and scatter light so that it comes from every direction, producing softer shadows. You can also use a white bed sheet or large sheet of white card to reflect and diffuse light into the shadows cast by the subject. Professional photographers use this technique for "filling" in shadows and lighting backlight subjects (which would otherwise be silhouetted against a bright background)

The image on the right was taken when the sun went behind the clouds. The resultant image has softer shadows
The image on the right was taken when the sun went behind the clouds. The resultant image has softer shadows | Source
Again, the photo on the right was taken when the sun went behind clouds
Again, the photo on the right was taken when the sun went behind clouds | Source
A portable folding reflector positioned to "bounce" sunlight onto a model
A portable folding reflector positioned to "bounce" sunlight onto a model | Source
Watch out for your own shadow in the shot. As a rule of thumb, the sun, subject and camera should be at an angle of 45 to 90 degrees
Watch out for your own shadow in the shot. As a rule of thumb, the sun, subject and camera should be at an angle of 45 to 90 degrees | Source

Ideal Camera Angle

Angle between camera, subject and sun
Angle between camera, subject and sun | Source

Using a reflector

Using a reflector to reflect diffused light
Using a reflector to reflect diffused light | Source

Tip 7: Crop Your Image

Cropping means cutting out sections of your image to remove uninteresting and irrelevant content. Remember also that if the subject only takes up a small amount of area in the frame, cropping discards pixels and this may result in a low resolution image if the original image was low resolution. So try to fill the frame with the object or region of interest when taking the original photograph. Also take photographs at the highest possible resolution so that a user can zoom in on the photo if this facility is allowed on a webpage. You can always reduce resolution later in your favorite image processing application.

Crop images to remove irrelevant stuff
Crop images to remove irrelevant stuff | Source

Tip 8: Watch Out For the Effects Caused by Using a Wide Angle Lens

Focal Length A camera lens focuses an image onto an optical sensor or film. The focal length of a lens is the distance from lens to image, when the image is in focus.

Lenses for cameras can be telephoto, standard, wide angle or zoom. Telephoto lenses have long focal lengths, and wide angle lenses have shorter focal lengths. A telephoto lens makes the subject look closer, so its useful for wildlife and sport photography etc. A standard lens makes the subject appear to be at the same distance as the human eye would see it, and a wide angle lens lets you fit more of a scene into the resulting image. This is useful if you want to take shots of room interiors or can't get far enough back from a subject to fit it into the frame. Often though, cameras are fitted with zoom lenses which have variable focal length and allow you to zoom up close or far away from your subject. If you extend a zoom lens out to the the wide angle end of its range, it can stretch perspective when used close to a subject. The same can happen if you're using a fixed focal length, wide angle lens. So parallel lines seem to converge and square things look trapezoidal (i.e. narrower at the back than at the front). The lens on a smartphone is designed to be wide angle so that you can do selfies and fit everything into the frame, so it can produce the same effects. Sometimes perspective might be the desired effect, however if you want to avoid this phenomenon, move further away from your subject, and zoom in closer.

The right image was taken with a wide angle lens up close, the left image was taken from further away and the lens zoomed in closer
The right image was taken with a wide angle lens up close, the left image was taken from further away and the lens zoomed in closer | Source
A wide angle lens can distort the shape of your subject. In this case, the rim of the box looks trapezoidal
A wide angle lens can distort the shape of your subject. In this case, the rim of the box looks trapezoidal | Source
I was sitting about 2 feet out on a spur of rock over the Atlantic while taking this photo. However the wide angle lens stretches perspective and makes it look scarier!
I was sitting about 2 feet out on a spur of rock over the Atlantic while taking this photo. However the wide angle lens stretches perspective and makes it look scarier! | Source

Tip 9: Use a Tripod

Camera shake can result in blurred images and a tripod helps to keep a camera steady.

A tripod is useful under several conditions:

  • At low shutter speeds (below 1/100 second), camera shake can result in blurring of images. If light levels are low, even with the largest aperture setting (lowest f -stop), the camera may select a low shutter speed to get in enough light for correct exposure
  • When doing close up work or macro photography, small movements of the camera can cause image blur
  • When zooming in on a subject

Camera tripod
Camera tripod | Source

Tip 10: Miscellaneous Stuff - Flashes, Digital Zoom and Interior lighting

Don't use the digital zoom on your digital camera or phone. Digital zoom doesn't add any more detail to an image, it just "joins the dots" or interpolates between the actual pixels in an image.

If you use a flash, try to avoid reflections from reflective surfaces by angling the camera so that the light from the flash bounces off the subject. Photographing too close to a light surface can produce harsh shadows.

You can use low cost, 500 watt, halogen work lights for illumination indoors. They are costly to run and get very hot, but for low resolution photos for webpages, they are quite useful. The color balance on your camera needs to be set to tungsten when using this type of lighting.

Every time you save a JPG file, it is compressed and loses some of its quality. Don't continually save and reload a JPG file after every operation in an image processing program. Save the file only when you are happy with the final result.


Flash can cause harsh shadows and reflections
Flash can cause harsh shadows and reflections | Source

Food Photography Tips

The essence of food photography is to make food look appetizing and scrumptious!

  • Pick fresh ingredients which look plump, firm and colourful. Old ingredients will tend to be duller and wizened looking
  • Use natural light if possible to eliminate shadows and bring out the full colour of the food
  • Use a mist bottle to spray fresh vegetables to give the impression they've just arrived from the garden!
  • Texture is just as important as colour when photographing food. So use a large depth of field to have everything in focus, or a shallow depth of field to isolate, e.g. food being eaten
  • Make sure cooking utensils, cutlery and tableware are clean
  • Show food being cooked/prepared - A hand stirring a pot or chopping vegetables adds a human element to the image

Source

Image / Photo Editing Programs

There are lots of image editing software applications out there for manipulating and retouching images from your camera, some freeware and others you have to pay for. Most free software packages will allow you to carry out basic photo manipulation such as cropping, changing brightness, contrast, color saturation and altering hue.

  • Adobe Photoshop - An image processing software package used by professionals. Expensive, but it can do lots and you can get "plugins" which allow you to add effects to images
  • Paint Shop Pro - Quite a good application available from Corel.com and much less expensive than Photoshop (currently about $50). PSP, like Photoshop, does all the basic stuff, with support for bitmapped images and also vector graphics (You can draw objects such as lines, curves, shapes, text and clip art onto images , and rescale or reshape them later). In addition it supports layers. This means you can have an underlying image and then add multiple layers on top of it, with different stuff on each layer to form a composite image.
  • Gimp - This is a comprehensive, free application. The user interface however takes some getting used to
  • Windows Photo Gallery - This comes either with Windows or as part of the Windows Live Essentials Suite
  • Picasa - A free image editor and organizer from Google

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Further Reading...........

You may be interested in some related articles:

Make money online selling your photos on microstock websites

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Comments 38 comments

MPG Narratives profile image

MPG Narratives 2 years ago from Sydney, Australia

Excellent hub on taking and using photographs correctly. The tips are so useful for anyone who writes and wants to enhance their articles. Voted up, useful, pinned and shared.


susi10 profile image

susi10 2 years ago from The British Isles, Europe

I enjoyed reading this hub so much particularly because I love photography and I would like to start including more of my own photos in hubs since your own photos make a hub more original. You have outlined your tips very well and I like the way you included photos to prove your point or show common errors. After this, I think I will be a lot better at photography.

This is a fantastic hub, well done, eugbug! I am sure it will help many more who want to add an extra touch to their photos for use in their hubs, blogs or websites. Shared, voted up and voted interesting.


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 years ago from Ireland Author

Thank you both!

I agree it's better to use your own photos on hubs if possible. We don't plagiarize written content here, so I think photos, diagrams and graphics should ideally be original also.


stephhicks68 profile image

stephhicks68 2 years ago from Bend, Oregon

Excellent tips! And I agree 100% about using one's own photos in a hub. Anyone who publishes online should review these tips on improving photographs. Best, Steph


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 years ago from Ireland Author

Thanks Steph for the recommendation!


RTalloni profile image

RTalloni 2 years ago from the short journey

Thanks for this look at improving photos for online use.


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 years ago from Ireland Author

You're welcome, hope it's of some benefit!


raymondphilippe profile image

raymondphilippe 2 years ago from The Netherlands

Sound tips in an excellent hub. Will have to pay more attention to this aspect in the future. Thanks for sharing. Voted Up.


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 years ago from Ireland Author

Thanks Raymond for the comments and dropping in!


Thelma Alberts profile image

Thelma Alberts 2 years ago from Germany

Brilliant hub! Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I´ll keep this in mind.


tehgyb profile image

tehgyb 2 years ago from Easton, Pennsylvania

So glad I stumbled upon this gem. I've recently been given a fairly nice camera and I've been procrastinating on picking it up and learning to use it right. This morning I was just exploring some hubs and this came up - I think this afternoon I'll play with that camera a bit. Thanks for the information and inspiration!


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 years ago from Ireland Author

Thanks Thelma and Don!

Don you should get better results than I do. My camera is 2001 vintage and could do with replacing! Thanks for the comments, good luck with the photos, and take care!


prasetio30 profile image

prasetio30 2 years ago from malang-indonesia

Very informative hub. I like photography and I learn many things here. You are my teacher today. Thanks for sharing with us. Voted up!

Prasetio


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 years ago from Ireland Author

Thanks, glad it helped you


Writer Fox profile image

Writer Fox 2 years ago from the wadi near the little river

A truly superb article! You give some great advice to capturing the right picture. Enjoyed and voted up!


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 years ago from Ireland Author

Thanks Writer Fox. I'm happy you enjoyed it and thanks for the comments!


Millionaire Tips profile image

Millionaire Tips 2 years ago from USA

Congratulations on being a top 10 hub! Well deserved! The photos are gorgeous, and there is so much information - I have learned a great deal. Voted up.


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 years ago from Ireland Author

Thanks, I'm just sorry I didn't call this "20 Tips...." so I can add more material!


tirelesstraveler profile image

tirelesstraveler 2 years ago from California

Splendid ideas that are clear and concise. I am thinking my tripod must make it into my luggage while I am traveling this summer. Thanks for the great information.


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 years ago from Ireland Author

Good idea, hope you get some good photo opportunities on your travels!

Thanks for the comments!


Sandra Harriette profile image

Sandra Harriette 2 years ago from Maryland

Definitely pinning this. I always need a photography refresher, seeing how I have gone the camera phone photography route. Smartphones are doing some big stuff.


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 years ago from Ireland Author

Thanks Sandra! I had to do some "refreshing" myself on the technicalities while writing this.


Sandra Harriette profile image

Sandra Harriette 2 years ago from Maryland

@eugbug Hey, that's the plight of the writer :D We're always learning and sharing our take on things.

Have a wonderful afternoon of writing!


Yvan L'Abbé 2 years ago

Thanks Eugbug, I can use all the help I can get when it comes to taking pictures. Your tips will come in very handy.


JaneA profile image

JaneA 21 months ago from California

Great advice here. Have you considered whether post-production work such as amping saturation, or changing the color profile to say sRGB IEC1966-2.1, could also improve the look of web images?


eugbug profile image

eugbug 21 months ago from Ireland Author

Thanks for the comments! Yes, it would be a good idea to add a section on post production. Changing contrast, highlighting, increasing brightness of images, amping saturation, and other manipulation helps to boost photos and make them look better. However if the original image isn't great, it can be like "putting lipstick on a pig", and no amount of manipulation will improve matters. Amping saturation helps if it isn't overdone, but if a photo was taken on a dull day, it can introduce unacceptable noise into an image. Ideally good, bright, omnidirectional lighting should be used (sunny but somewhat cloudy) when taking photos.

I'm not familiar with all the complexities of sRGB, gamma compensation/coding/decoding so will have to swat up on it!


FatBoyThin profile image

FatBoyThin 18 months ago from Kinneff, Scotland

I only have a cheap camera at the moment, but there's a lot of good advice here that I think will help me to stop taking crap photos! Great Hub, voted up.


eugbug profile image

eugbug 18 months ago from Ireland Author

Thanks Colin, a lot of the advice about composition, focusing, exposure applies even to cheap cameras, even though they mightn't have fancy zoom lenses.

Thanks for the comments!


MG Seltzer profile image

MG Seltzer 17 months ago from South Portland, Maine

Thank you! I can use most of these tips. I really appreciate the before-and-after comparisons so I can see what big effect even a small change can make. I take my own photos for my essays and since I don't use good-quality equipment, it's helpful for me to have these tips to optimize the pictures to make them more appealing and focused on the idea without distractions.


eugbug profile image

eugbug 17 months ago from Ireland Author

Thanks MG. The quality of images produced by even low end equipment now is very good. When I bought my entry level Sony Lumia 520 smartphone last year (costing less than $70), I was surprised by the results. The resolution and image quality was better than that produced by my digital SLR which cost me about $1200 14 years ago! Ok, a smartphone mightn't have a zoom lens, but it good enough for most applications.


promisem profile image

promisem 16 months ago

I recently bought a new Nikon and took a photo class at the local arts center, which provided some of the same concepts but not nearly the same insights.

This is an extremely thorough and informative article. And your photos are excellent. I wish I could shoot with the same level of quality. Maybe one day.


eugbug profile image

eugbug 16 months ago from Ireland Author

Thanks a million Scott! I tend to use my smartphone a lot now for taking photos for hubs. The resolution is perfectly adequate for webpages. Unfortunately its not great for photographing landscapes and the wide angle lens makes everything in the distance look small (mountains end up as hills). An SLR is great, produces higher resolution and sharper images, and usually has the advantage of a zoom lens, but can be a pain to drag around. I suppose we can't have everything....


promisem profile image

promisem 16 months ago

Taking photos with an SLR also looks a lot cooler than taking them with a smartphone, even if you don't really know how to use an SLR. :)


claptona profile image

claptona 15 months ago from Earth

Good hub, eubug.

Job well done.

Cheers


eugbug profile image

eugbug 15 months ago from Ireland Author

Thanks for taking a look John!


johndwilliams profile image

johndwilliams 12 months ago from Essex England

Great Hub well written and really practical tips for all Photographers! Cheers


Pamela99 profile image

Pamela99 2 months ago from United States

This is an excellent article that gives us so much detail we can certainly learn to improve our picture taking skills. I like the way you organized this hub, and your examples were perfect. Well done!


eugbug profile image

eugbug 2 months ago from Ireland Author

Thanks for reading this Pamela! From your profile I see you like travelling and gardening, so hopefully the tips will come in useful for those pursuits!

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