Woodworking : How to make your own strong casein wood glue from milk

Wikimedia picture - Stockholm Central Station uses Casin Glues.

Safety first.


Warning: Always add acid to water and not the other way around otherwise you may get a violent reaction (boiling splashing nasty action).

Always handle chemicals according to the manufactures' recommendations, and any other precautions that you can find. Use gloves and eye goggles. Avoid burns and spills, and reactions with incompatible objects. Don't mix chemicals unless you are well aware of the result before doing it. Some chemical mixes can burst into flame or explode or boil. Do not consume chemicals in case they are poisonous. Prepare your workspace appropriately, have an assistant. Use protective clothing, and know how to contact the poisons centre for advice in an emergency.

In short - proceed at your own risk.

What ? Glue Just From Milk?

Almost. You need to separate the casein. For that, a mild acid, and some heat will do the trick.
Also, you will need to use skim milk powder.

Casein - What is it?

Casein is a protein. It is sometimes called caseinogen and you will find it in about 80% of the proteins in milk. Technically, it is a salt of the element calcium which, incidentally is a metal. So you should see why it is likely to be pretty tough stuff. You might even find it as an ingredient in nail polish.

Special properties.

It is not coagulated by heat. So how do you extract it from milk? The answer is to use acid. You may be interested to know that a proteolytic enzyme called rennet which is found in the stomachs of calves will also extract casein. ( Think about that next time you enjoy non-vegan prepared cheese - but remember that it is reportedly good for your teeth.)

Casein is fairly hydrophobic which means that it is not water soluble and that's a nice property for wood glue.





About the glue.

In ancient China, craftsmen used skimmed milk and rennet with a little lime to produce a very good water resistant glue. You can do something similar using just skimmed milk and vinegar. We will explore this later.

Although it is quite water resistant, total permanent immersion will break down the bond. However, so will microorganisms. Hence you might find that a commercial preparation also contains a fungicide but for non damp internal and even load-bearing structures, you can skip the fungicide.

Is it used much today?

No. Formaldehyde based glues are just as strong but more moisture resistant. This is a shame because casein glues have proven to last 50 or 60 years. For example, the Stockholm Central Station in Sweden was built between 1867 and 1871 using casein glue for huge laminated arches. Also WW2 fighter aircraft had casein glue structures. Commercial preparations started probably in the 1800s in Germany or Switzerland. They were used in the USA until about 1916 (ish).

Should it be used more today?

Yes. Casein glues could be manufactured for much less than the cost of modern equivalents. Formaldehyde is a nasty chemical but simple casein glue without lime or fungicide is not poisonous. Concentrated lime can burn skin - so only use that with extreme caution.



A recipie

Ingredients:

  • Skim milk powder.
  • Water.
  • White vinegar.
  • Baking soda.

1. Dilute skim milk powder as per packet instructions to make 100 mL. Put into a pan. Add 15% vinegar (15 mL for 100 mL of liquid). [ For information: vinegar is 5% acetic acid ]
2. GENTLY heat and stir. As soon as it curdles, remove it from the heat. If you heat too much it will ruin the glue.
3. Pore the liquid and curds through a paper filter. You can use a funnel and a paper towel
4. Wash the casein to remove traces of vinegar.
5. Add 1/2 a teaspoon of baking soda to the curds and carefully stir with a small flat stick. Add water one drop at a time while stirring, until you reach a typical glue-like texture.

If you want to create a casein powder for use with various formulae, then after point 4. above press the casein in a paper towel to remove most of the water and let it dry hard. Then you can reduce it to powder. Do not mix the alkali before this stage because over time the powder will lose its properties.

The quality of the glue depends on low fat and acid content. This is why you start with skimmed milk and why you wash the vinegar away. Bi-carbonate of soda is an alkali and of course will neutralize the vinegar.

Variations

Substitute lime for bi-carbonate of soda.

Substitute sodium hydroxide for bi-carbinate of soda for a long life high strength glue but sacrifice some water resistent properties because sodium hydroxide is hydroscopic which means it will 'suck in' water molecules.

If you would like to make a prepared powder which also contains the alkali, then you can use calcium hydroxide. This is not hydroscopic but when you eventually add water it will turn to sodium hydroxide.

Alternate salts:

  • sodium oxalate,
  • sodium tartrate,
  • sodium citrate,
  • sodium salicylate,
  • sodium phosphate,
  • sodium sulfite,
  • sodium fluoride,
  • sodium arsenate,
  • sodium arsenite, or
  • sodium stan­nate

Fungicide

The following is known to work, but take appropriate care in every case:

  • copper salts,
  • mercury salts,
  • the chlorin­ated phenols or their sodium salts to 5% by volume.




Another recipe

By weight (any units) - assume powder.

Casein 100
Water 150

Then add either:

Sodium hydroxide 11
Water 50

CaIcium hydroxide 20
Water 50

Some notes on the ingredients:

Accurate weigh scales will give a better result than by volume.

Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) is "caustic soda", also known as Iye and sodium hydrate. It must be handled with care since it will burn skin.

CaIcium hydroxide (Ca(OH)2) is also known as hydrated Iime slaked lime, hydrated lime, slack lime, calcium hydrate or pickling lime.


Using the glue.

A runny glue has a longer work-time and it is easy to spread but too much water negatively affects strength. Glue will stain some woods and too much water causes more staining.

A jelly-like consistency will be strong. It has a short work-time and may be difficult to spread.

You should aim for a warm-honey consistency.

Clamp the wood for 2 to 4 hours. If the temperature is high, then it will dry faster. Hard wood gluing needs more time than soft wood. You can machine it after 6 hours or so.

The glue is quite hard and will tend to blunt your tools, so be sure to make them sharp and keep them sharp.

Sanding

See this article about sanding wood.

More by this Author


Comments 22 comments

pious  5 years ago

Was very helpful


Michael 5 years ago

Very strong glue. I used the pickling lime and after and hour could not pull the pieces apart so Started using it on a chest I am building and it's great,far cheaper and a lot safer than store bought glue.


Manna in the wild profile image

Manna in the wild 5 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you Michael for your feedback.


Michael 5 years ago

How long can the prepared glue be stored if sodium hydroxide was used? Hate to waste the extra if I can use it in a few days.


Manna in the wild profile image

Manna in the wild 5 years ago from Australia Author

In the dry form, perhaps a year shelf life if stored in cool dry airtight container.

Once re-hydrated, I don't know. I read one report of four weeks sealed in the fridge, but I can't verify.

Perhaps you could try it and let me know?


Michael 5 years ago

I put the remainder in the refrigerator in a sealed container. I will date it and report back when it goes bad.


Michael 5 years ago

Well I took the glue out this morning and it was un-usable. It had pretty much turned into a lump of plastic like material. I did use pickling lime instead of backing soda.

Either way the formula using the pickling lime is so strong that I have glued a bow together and a knife handle with it and it holds like expoxy.


Manna in the wild profile image

Manna in the wild 5 years ago from Australia Author

Thank you Michael for that valuable experiment.


Michael 5 years ago

Your welcome. If I find anything else out that might be of use I will share it.


Researcher 5 years ago

I try this formula but didn't get any glu texture - its look like simple milk - I just done that - giving a try to get it cool but I dont think it work at my end !


Manna in the wild profile image

Manna in the wild 5 years ago from Australia Author

Hi Researcher. It's always worked for me. So I can only guess that there is not enough casein in the milk that you used. Be sure to used skim-milk. I find the powder works well.


ardenfr profile image

ardenfr 4 years ago from Lubbock, Tx

Thanks for this informative article. I am interested in making wooden toys that will likely be gnawed on by young teeth and gums, this glue should be a great way to keep parents' concerns to a minimum. I will definitely try it.


kasseinlim 4 years ago

"to make 100 mL. Put into a pan. Add 5% vinegar (15 mL for 100 mL of liquid). "

Do you mean 15% vinegar?


Manna in the wild profile image

Manna in the wild 4 years ago from Australia Author

Well spotted. That should be 15% vinegar for 100mL milk

The concentration of acetic acid in vinegar is 5% - sorry for the confusion.

I will Change it.


qsurti 4 years ago

Can your formulation be worked for making glue on commercial scale?


Manna in the wild profile image

Manna in the wild 4 years ago from Australia Author

In the past, this kind of glue has been commercialised. In fact if you try hard enough you might find it can be purchased retail... probably in powder form.


Hihi 4 years ago

Dude, what if I can't find a skim milk powder? Any substitute?


Manna in the wild profile image

Manna in the wild 4 years ago from Australia Author

It should be available in any super market. But you could use liquid skim milk. I've used that before with success. You could even use non-homogenised milk if you let the cream float and use the skim milk from underneath. You could try cottage cheese too but I've not tried that. It should work though - let me know if you try it.


Torsten 3 years ago

I Need to harden the internal surfaces of pure rammed earth walls and intend to spray on/roll on a casein/borat/water mixture which will bind the surface but maintain the moisture permeability of the coating. Can anyone tell me here to source bulk casein and boart. Has anyone done something like this and give advise? Thanks


Ankit kumar 2 years ago

Is it strong enough to joint my cricket bat's handle to play with tennis ball?


Manna in the wild profile image

Manna in the wild 2 years ago from Australia Author

Hi Torsten, I don't know.

Hi Ankit, probably yes. Make sure the joined surface is clean bare wood and don't over clamp it.


anuj gupta 2 years ago

Can be obtain casein from whey

    Sign in or sign up and post using a HubPages Network account.

    0 of 8192 characters used
    Post Comment

    No HTML is allowed in comments, but URLs will be hyperlinked. Comments are not for promoting your articles or other sites.


    Click to Rate This Article
    working