No Spark Mazda Protege, MX6 MX3 626 Kia sephia, Ford Aspire ignition rotor
Okay so you have this car that cranks but doesn't start. You quickly determine the car has no spark. You check the two power wires and 2 ground wires to the distributor and that's okay, You even see voltage (about 1.5-2VDC) on the yellow signal wire from the computer. Its probably a bad distributor, the coil or module in there is out to lunch. Well take the cap off and crank it to see if its sparking from the coil tower under the cap before throwing a 500 dollar distributor at the car.
Some times the spark will punch through the rotor and ground out through the shaft just like the old GM cars and trucks used to.
If you have spark from the coil tower inside the distributor and no spark to the plugs you can bet this rotor is fried. Its a good Idea to do a tune-up at this point because the rotor burned out because of high voltage demand on the ignition system. Change the plugs, wires, cap and rotor.
More by this Author
The above diagram shows the serpentine belt routing picture for the Chevy Impala LTZ 3.9 engine. You can click the image for a full size view and print it out. Looks like you found a better place to publish and share...
Here is a drive cycle that works well on Toyotas when trying to set the readiness monitors to pass an emissions test. I developed this myself from trial and error. Fuel tank at 1/2. Engine cold start idle for 10...
It is possible to cheat an emissions test to conceal catalytic converter faults. Oxygen sensors behind the converter can be tricked.
No comments yet.