How Arizona Pima Cotton is Grown, Ginned, Milled and Marketed
Picking Cotton by Hand
How Cotton was Developed
Ever wonder where your fabulous cotton dress shirt, or smooth high thread count cotton sheet, or soft cotton T-shirt came from before it was created for retail? Cotton has a long history as remnants of items woven from cotton have been found in many pre-historic ruins in the Americas, Africa and India. It is believed that the cotton plant was already domesticated in the 14th Century. The cotton plant produces bolls with tough outer coverings which protect the white cotton fibers and seeds inside. Even when the boll ripens and the seeds begin spilling out, the boll remains firmly attached to the plant and the sharp points where the boll has opened make cotton hard to pick.
Many varieties of cotton exist and they are categorized by whether they produce long or short fibers. The longer and thinner the cotton fiber is, then the softer the end product will be. A cotton crop will take 8-9 months from planting to harvest, and it requires sunny and hot weather. A drawback of producing cotton is the amount of water that is required for it to grow. In addition to the amount of water needed, a cotton crop attracts pests like the boll weevil, so pesticides are needed to protect the bolls. Types of cotton plants that can resist pests are constantly under research and development. Because of the amount of water needed and pesticides, growing cotton raises environmental concerns.
Picking Cotton was Back Breaking Work
How Cotton is Picked
In the United States, cotton is generally planted during April or May. In the Fall, the cotton is harvested. When cotton was picked by hand, the cotton fiber was plucked out of the boll, and placed into a long sack worn by the picker and as the sack filled, it drug behind the picker. When the sack was too full to drag, it was emptied and credited to the name of the picker. At the end of the day, the cotton was weighed and paid by the pound. Or sometimes the pickers used the process of "pulling" began which meant that the cotton was pulled instead of picked which meant that twigs and parts of the plant were left to be separated by the ginning process. The work was back breaking. Pickers often encountered rattlesnakes which were attracted to the cotton fields for the cover for the sun and the water for the plants. Eventually, the pickers were replaced by machinery, but sometimes pickers will be hired to glean the bolls missed by the machinery.
Next the cotton is taken to a gin where the cotton fiber is separated from the cotton seeds. Cotton seed is saved for a variety of uses. After the "rough" cleaning, the cotton is compressed into bales and covered with burlap before it is sent to a mill.
Cotton Farming Requires Sun and Heat
Cotton Farming in Southern Arizona
The British are credited for developing the milling process that made cotton textiles readily available. At first, the British imported cotton from India, but later, they began importing cotton from the Caribbean and the American South. Conditions were favorable for growing cotton in the South because of the climate and the availability of slave labor. Soon the South was called King Cotton. By the early 1900s, automobile tires were produced from long staple cotton. fishing nets, tents, fire hoses and paper products were produced in addition to the many types of cotton fabrics.
Cotton became one of Arizona's most prized crops and helped to build Arizona's economy. I've often read that it was the Goodyear company who brought cotton to Arizona when they began to experiment with growing a long staple variety of Egyptian cotton for tire production just west of Phoenix, after the boll weevil had infested the cotton crops in the South. However, the Native Peoples of Arizona had been farming types of cotton long before the Goodyear company existed and tires had been invented. Pima and Supima cotton can be credited to the Sacaton area of the now Gila River Reservation. Both types, Pima and Supima cotton are now favored by many designers such as Ralph Lauren.
By 1953, cotton was listed as Arizona's greatest resource surpassing the Arizona copper industry, but the 1960s brought a trend of using synthetic fabrics for clothing and household items and the cotton industry suffered not only in Arizona, but world wide.
Cotton Prices Have Continued to Rise
Cotton the Fabric of Our Lives
After the craze of synthetic fabrics in the 1960s and 1970s, cotton textiles began their comeback as a fabric of choice. Synthetic fabrics do not "breathe" or wear the way that natural fiber fabrics such as cotton does. In 2010, on October 16th, cotton reached the highest price level that it ever had in 140 years. Due to bad weather in China and India, inventories of cotton were limited, so following the laws of supply and demand, prices climbed. China now leads the world in cotton production, India is second and the United States is third.
Consumer advertising campaigns designed to boost the sales of cotton textiles such as the slogan "Cotton the Fabric of Our Lives have been very successful. Cotton Inc. was a group formed that is committed to changing the future of cotton production. The goal is to develop methods of growing cotton that are going to improve soils, use less water promote better management of fertilizers and develop methods to turn cotton seed into bio-diesel fuel. One of the most surprising facts that I learned about cotton while researching material on cotton was that raw cotton was used in the clean-up process of the Gulf Oil spill. There really is something new about so many old things.
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