Flavors of the World--Tarragon of France

tarragon in the herb garden
tarragon in the herb garden

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It Begins in Paris

The City of Paris is divided into 20 arrondissements (municipal districts). Each district has its unique histories, architecture, and tourist treasures. Of the 20 areas, my favorite is the 7th.

There you will find the Eiffel Tower, world-famous museums (such as the Musée d'Orsay), Napoleon’s resting place, and (best of all) Rue Cler.

Where Is It?

Source

What is Rue Clere?

Rue Cler (Cler Street in English) is not a grand tree-lined boulevard. This short, cobblestone-lined pedestrian street is Heaven on earth for people who love good food.

This is where the locals go to buy their favorite ingredients or where they meet friends at an outdoor café and simply watch the world go by.

So, put on your walking shoes, grab a shopping bag, and stroll with me. In just two short blocks you will find:

  • Halles Bosquet – one of four fruit and vegetable stands.
  • Darius Rotisserie – they prepare flame-roasted chicken and braised chicken breasts and thighs.
  • Les Floralies – a prominent flower stand that creates beautiful, low-cost bouquets.
  • La Fermette Fromagerie – cheese shop.
  • Boucheries Coucaud – butcher shop.
  • Davoli-La Maison du Jambon – Italian delicatessen (olives and pasta anyone?)
  • La Sablaise Poissonerie – fish merchant.
  • Famille Mary-Miel et Nature – a nature store specializing in honeys.
  • Bacchus – what a great name for a wine shop!
  • Charcuterie Jeusselin – maker of fine sausages and cold cuts.
  • Leonotre – pastries
  • Leonidas Chocolatier – chocolate, of course

And amidst these, at the corner of Rue du champ du Mars and Rue Cler is Café du Maché

Why Am I Telling You This?

(Be patient--we're almost there).

My family and I arrived in Paris in mid-afternoon—famished and desperately wanting food and drink. Shopping for our evening meal would have to wait.

We knew that Café du Marché would treat us to a wonderful meal at a reasonable price. My husband and daughters ordered sandwiches, and I chose a special of the day from the blackboard--Poulet à l'estragon salade (a chicken tarragon salad).

And so I was introduced to fresh tarragon.

A markerCafe du Marche', Paris, France -
Paris, France
[get directions]

----- How to Grow Tarragon -----

  • Plant type: Perennial
  • Hardiness: Hardiness zones 4 – 7. Tarragon is not completely hardy, so cover the plants with straw, or grass clippings in autumn after the foliage has died down. Place containers in a greenhouse or shed to overwinter.
  • Height: 24 to 36 inches.
  • Width: 24 inches
  • Light: Full Sun is best, but can tolerate small amounts of shade.
  • Soil: Although most species tolerate poor dry soils, results are best if the plants are grown in a fertile, sandy, well-drained loam with a pH of 6.9. Also grows well in soilless peat based mixtures (in containers).
  • Pests: No known pest issues.
  • Diseases: Root rot and mildew. Tarragon can tolerate poor dry soils, as well as lack of water. However, it will not tolerate excessively wet roots. When in doubt, grow in containers.
  • Propagation: Plant propagates itself via underground runners. If you need to propagate new plants, do so by taking cuttings of rooted shoots, or by dividing your existing root stock.
  • Companion planting: This aromatic herb generally enhances the growth of other plants, including most vegetables.


Now, of course, I don't have the actual recipe from the café, but I have done my best to recreate that salad for you.

That recipe (Poulet à l'estragon salade), and a few more that feature tarragon, are given below.

But First, You Want to Learn a Bit More About Tarragon, Right?

French tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus sativa) did not originate in France. Its origins can be traced to Siberia—but please don’t confuse it with Russian tarragon (Artemisia dracunculus inodora). French tarragon has smooth, glossy dark-green leaves and a sweet anise flavor. On the other hand, Russian tarragon is a showy imposter--larger, coarser, and lacking in aroma and flavor. Russian tarragon might take a striking pose in your herb garden, but never allow it to enter your kitchen.

The English word tarragon is a corruption of the French word estragon, or little dragon. I always thought that the name referred to the plant’s pointed, slender green leaves which resemble the jagged crest running down a dragon’s back. But no; most reference books state that it has to do with the herb’s serpentine root system. (I also think it might have something to do with its medieval reputation of being a curative for venomous stings and bites).

5 stars from 1 rating of Fresh Tarragon Recipes
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Your Patience Has Been Rewarded--Here Are The Recipes

Poulet à l'estragon salade (Chicken Tarragon Salad)

Prep time: 40 minutes (includes 30 minutes chilling time) Yields:4 servings

Ingredients

  • 3 cups cooked chicken breast, diced
  • 1 cup celery heart (the tender inner portion), finely diced
  • 2 tablespoons minced red onion
  • 1 cup homemade tarragon mayonnaise, (see recipe below)
  • 3 cups garden lettuces: small oak leaf, red leaf, arugula, mâche, and any other tender lettuce greens, washed and dried well
  • 1/2 cup red raspberries
  • 3/4 cup walnuts, finely chopped
  • 2 ounces of quality Roquefort Cheese, crumbled
  • freshly ground black peppercorns

directions

  1. Combine chicken, celery heart, and minced red onion in a large mixing bowl. Stir in mayonnaise and gently toss to coat. Cover and chill at least 30 minutes.
  2. Serve on chilled plates lined with salad greens. Garnish with raspberries, walnuts, and cheese and freshly ground black pepper as desired.

Homemade Tarragon Mayonnaise

  • 2 large egg yolks
  • 1/4 tsp. salt
  • 1 tablespoon lemon juice
  • 3/4 cup olive oil
  • 3 teaspoons fresh minced tarragon
  1. Place the egg yolks, salt, and lemon juice in the bowl of a blender.
  2. Process until the egg yolk and juice are well-combined and the yolks begin to turn to a lighter shade of yellow.
  3. Remove the fill cap (central portion of the lid).
  4. Place the olive oil in a glass measuring cup with a lip suitable for pouring.
  5. With the blender running, begin adding the oil to the yolk/lemon juice mixture. Start with just one drop at a time and increase to a steady but very slow stream as the oil is absorbed.
  6. Stir in tarragon.

Chicken with Tarragon Cream Sauce

ingredients

  • One 4 pound whole chicken
  • salt and pepper
  • 4 large fresh sprigs of tarragon
  • 2 tablespoons butter at room temperature
  • 1/2 cup water
  • 1/2 cup dry vermouth or dry white wine
  • 3/4 cup whipping cream or crème fraiche
  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh tarragon

directions

  1. Preheat oven to 400 degrees F. Rinse chicken thoroughly inside and out. Pat dry with paper towels. Sprinkle inside with salt and pepper. Place tarragon sprigs in cavity. Rub butter all over outside of chicken. Place chicken in roasting pan. Pour 1/2 cup water into roasting pan.
  2. Roast, uncovered, in preheated oven, basting occasionally with pan juices. Cook until internal temperature (in thickest part of thigh) registers 175 degrees F. and juices run clear when thigh is pierced--about 1 hour.
  3. Transfer chicken to platter; tent with foil to keep warm while making the sauce.
  4. Transfer pan juices to medium saucepan. Freeze until fat rises to top--about minutes. Spoon off fat and discard. Add vermouth to pan juices in saucepan. Boil until slightly reduce, about 3 minutes.
  5. Add cream and tarragon and boil until mixture thickens to sauce consistency, stirring occasionally, about 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to taste.

Serves 4

Julia Child's Fish Stew with White Wine and Tarragon

ingredients

  • 1 large tomato
  • 1 carrot, peeled and sliced
  • 1 leek, white and pale green parts only, halved lengthwise and sliced
  • 1 celery stalk, preferably with leaves, sliced (leaves chopped)
  • 1 medium onion, sliced
  • 1-1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 1 generous teaspoon chopped fresh tarragon leaves (or 1/2 teaspoon dried)
  • 1-1/4 cup chardonnay, plus 1 tablespoon (or other dry white wine)
  • 3/4 cup chicken broth
  • 1/2 cup water
  • salt and freshly ground pepper
  • 1/2 tablespoon cornstarch
  • 1/2 pound sole sliced into bite-sized pieces
  • 1 egg yolk
  • 1/2 cup sour cream

directions

  1. First blanch the tomato. Cut a cross in the bottom (blossom end). Drop tomato into a medium pot of boiling water. After 30 seconds, remove the tomato with a strainer and set aside to cool. You need the tomato near the end of the recipe, so during a break in the action, peel it, core it, and scoop out the seeds. Then dice the tomato; you should have about 3/4 cup.
  2. Melt the butter in a large, heavy pot over low to medium heat. Add carrot, leek, celery and onion and toss to coat with butter. Cover pot and sweat vegetables for 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Do not allow to brown; reduce heat if necessary.
  3. Add tarragon, 1-1/4 cups wine, broth and water. Season with salt and pepper and simmer uncovered for 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
  4. Combine cornstarch and remaining tablespoon of white wine in a small bowl, stirring until cornstarch is completely dissolved. Slowly drizzle 1/2 cup of heated broth/wine mixture into cornstarch and wine, stirring constantly to keep it from forming clumps. Blend back into pot and simmer over low heat for 2 minutes. Fold in fish and tomato and bring to a simmer. Taste and adjust seasonings.
  5. Meanwhile, mix egg yolk and sour cream in a medium bowl. Slowly drizzle 1/2 cup of heated broth/wine mixture into it, stirring to combine. Gently fold into pot.
  6. Ladle stew into shallow soup plates and serve with a crusty bread.

Serves 2 generously as dinner, 3 as a light lunch

One Final Word

I cannot leave without sharing with you a famous quote from James Beard. He was at the very least an author, teacher, TV personality and syndicated columnist. But he was so much more than that. James Beard was a champion of American cuisine; he taught and mentored generations of professional chefs and food enthusiasts. His legacy lives on in twenty books, countless newspaper and periodical writings, and his foundation's annual James Beard awards.

Although I cannot agree with Mr. Beard's pronouncement, I can support his love of the herb tarragon.

“I believe that if ever I had to practice cannibalism, I might manage if there were enough tarragon around.”

--James Beard

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Comments 14 comments

Carb Diva profile image

Carb Diva 10 months ago Author

Bravewarrior - I wonder if your tarragon could survive if kept in a pot? Yes tarragon with fish is wonderful, but do please give it a try with chicken--the mild flavor of a chicken breast (and a bit of cream) would be Heavenly with tarragon.

Thank you for your kind words. I enjoy learning the history of the foods we eat and hope others enjoy hearing those histories as well.


bravewarrior profile image

bravewarrior 10 months ago from Central Florida

I love tarragon, but usually use it on fish. I've never thought to use it in chicken recipes; rosemary is my preferred choice when it comes to poultry.

I'm saddened to learn that I live outside the preferred growing zone for tarragon. I live in what has how been deemed 9.5 in America. I guess Global Warming has something to do with the redistribution of gardening zones.

The salad recipe and the Chicken Tarragon with Cream Sauce intrigue me. I love salads and I love sauces.

Thank you for giving us a history and walk-through of Parisian tarragon. It's always nice to learn something new other than a recipe.


Carb Diva profile image

Carb Diva 10 months ago Author

Peachpurple - yes tarragon is an herb, best used fresh rather than dried. It is quite strong however so a little bit goes a long way. The flavor is not like oregano, however. Tarragon has an almost "sweet" flavor (think of licorice or chai tea which I believe contains star anise). So it pairs well with mild-flavored foods such as eggs, white fish, chicken. It would not be a good partner with a red spaghetti sauce or beef. I hope that helps.


peachpurple profile image

peachpurple 10 months ago from Home Sweet Home

it is alike oregano, some sorts of herbs for food


Carb Diva profile image

Carb Diva 10 months ago Author

Vocalcoach - I'm glad that you enjoyed the tour. As for not eating meat, I don't know where you live. In Washington State we have a product called Quorn--it is a non-meat substitute for chicken. I think the flavor and texture are spot-on. I would definitely use that in the salad, and I think it would work with the tarragon cream sauce as well. In the stew I think you could simply substitute some peeled chopped Yukon gold potatoes.

Let me know if you try any of these recipes. One of my daughters is vegetarian and so I am sure she would like to hear if these recipes are workable for non-meat eaters.


Carb Diva profile image

Carb Diva 10 months ago Author

Flourish - Thank you. The chicken is GOOD, and I know I can always rely on James Beard for a good quotation. (By the way, I wonder what the EditBots will do with the French words?


vocalcoach profile image

vocalcoach 10 months ago from Nashville Tn.

I've always wanted to visit Paris and enjoyed the tour you've provided. As for tarragon, I love it and use this spice whenever I can. Although I don't eat meat, your recipe will be used substituting a soy product. Thanks for this well-written and entertaining article!


FlourishAnyway profile image

FlourishAnyway 10 months ago from USA

That chicken recipe sounds fabulous and the quote is hilarious.


Carb Diva profile image

Carb Diva 10 months ago Author

Jodah - Rue Cler is a wonderful place to stay and visit. Thank you for your kind words.


Carb Diva profile image

Carb Diva 10 months ago Author

Eric, I am glad you enjoyed my little trip down memory lane. As you have probably figured out I LOVE to cook, but I think just a mere recipe is pretty darned boring. If I had simply written a hub on how to make a chicken salad you would forget it in 5 minutes. I'll bet, now that you know the background, you will remember this one.

Have a great day my friend.


Carb Diva profile image

Carb Diva 10 months ago Author

Bill, happy Wednesday to you as well. Please do give it a try; I think you would like it. As for growing it, be careful when selecting seedlings or packaged seeds. True French tarragon is difficult to find and the other stuff just isn't worth bringing home.


billybuc profile image

billybuc 10 months ago from Olympia, WA

Ahhh, the value of your articles. I've never grown this and if I've tasted it I sure don't remember, but now, because of you, I'll give it a try. Thanks for the excellent writing and information, my friend, and Happy Wednesday to you.


Ericdierker profile image

Ericdierker 10 months ago from Spring Valley, CA. U.S.A.

Wonderful, thank you for the delightful visit to Paris. These recipes look delicious. You certainly are the champion of recipe articles.


Jodah profile image

Jodah 10 months ago from Queensland Australia

Wonderful hub Carb Diva. I would love to visit Paris but it probably will never happen. If I do however I will be sure to check out Rue Cler and Café du Marché. I love the recipes, especially Chicken with Tarragon Cream Sauce.

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