Tales of Food & Drink digested from 55 years of International Travel

by David Russell

A serialized weekly Travel & Culinary Adventure. My travels for business or with my wife on vacation were always rich in unexpected experiences. In this A La Carte series we’ll relive visits to 42 countries, each with its own tales of foods, beverages, people and places and there's always a seat at the table just for you.

Chapter 8 – Nepal

Our initial connection of food to Nepal was onboard Singapore Airlines Flight # 11, headed from LA to Singapore. With sufficient Frequent Flyer miles, we treated ourselves to upper deck seats. For us, upper deck was a spoiler. Once tasted, it became a steady diet whenever possible, especially on a plus 5 hour flight. Call it snobbery, but it was and remains appealingly luxurious to be separated from the vastness of a crowded 300-plus seat 747. Imagine the 787. Whenever we had collected sufficient miles, upper deck is where we headed.

The combination of much International Business travel and low mileage requirements during our early travel years allowed us to upper deck frequently. Not only for privacy similar to a small personal jet, but for its wider, more comfortable sleeper seats. And, of course the upgraded food and beverages. Upgraded until now. Today all bets are off.

This particular 20 years ago journey was a good example. Lunch began with a nicely chilled Tanqueray Gin and a full bowl of Hot Cashews. Why not indulge, we were on vacation and the sun was setting somewhere.

Next, a Salad and two fair sized King Crab Legs. Then a Hot Dish, either Udon Noodles with Eel, Oriental Chicken or a Steak. Since Claryce and I often split and shared, we each had half Noodle and Eel and half Chicken.

After a 2-hour refueling stop in Taipei, Taiwan, when we were again airborne, more food. Being four hours since lunch, we were ready. An Iced Tea was good with a Shrimp Cocktail and a canapé plate. Of the five Canapé pieces two tasted Meaty, two Fishy and the fifth, Cream Cheese with Olives. All very tasty.

What proved smart was switching to Tsingtao, the only beer the Taiwanese Chinese permitted on board. Its icy cold, bite-y taste nicely cut through a heavy-handed sprinkle of spicy Soy Sauce which drenched a bowl of Rice Noodles. The brew also deliciously complimented a dish of Roast Beef, Rice and Ginger flavored Veggies. Though we passed on the Butterscotch topped Ice Cream Dessert, after an hour of reading, Claryce sipped on a Port and I, a lovely tot of Drambuie.

In Singapore, we had pre-booked an airport hotel over-night where we managed a full five hours of sleep. At 8:45am, following a KRIS airport lounge breakfast with a group of Aussie trekkers, we trekked aboard our waiting A310. Three hours later we were on the ground in Katmandu.

The Katmandu airport at that time closed from 6PM till morning first light, because night fights proved too dangerous in the combination of surrounding mountain peaks and sudden wind sheers.

In Nepal’s capital city, our 4-story hotel was a converted Japanese Tea House, called The Sunset View. Dinner saw a reappearance of Udon Noodles, which were served with almost everything. Ours came with chopped pieces of Chicken Breast. Tasty and sufficiently light, it was a nice introduction to the Sunset View kitchen.

We also were introduced to the fact that the Sunset View Bar never stocked Nepalese Beer. Not because it was less profitable than imports, but because they had so few calls for it. Often a case of Nepal local brew sat with no takers for such a long period, it lost all its freshness and drew complaints. Guests preferred Japanese brands or Chinese Tsingtao or even Heinekin, which at premium cost sold better than the much lesser priced Nepalese brands. We went with the flow.

Since I always use the price of local beer against the price of a U.S. beer to gauge a country’s currency value against the dollar, I got the cost of a Nepal brand from a super market shelf. The differential told me our dollar should be strong in Nepal.

That night, we learned something else. From our second floor window we were kept awake by the bark and howl of wild dogs, abetted by noises from Chicken and Geese. Quiet settled in about 4:30 and lasted till 7:20.

Partially compensating for the noisy night was a wonderful Breakfast including Mango and Papaya, Pineapple and Bananas, along with Cereal hot and cold, fresh home made Yogurt, Hot Rolls and Hot Beverages.

A complaint to the desk got us moved to a much larger room on the top floor which we really liked, especially with its improved view. We hoped it would prove quieter as well. It did.

Next morning we taxied 15 miles to Bhaktapur to see Durbar, literally, “The City of Devotees”, known for its art collections and centuries old culture, plus its Newar Buddhist lifestyle. Much to see: the 55 window temple now a World Heritage Foundation site, the Golden Entrance

Gateway, the King Bharatindia Malla Statue, the Golden Spot, Big Bell and Nadj Square’s 5 story Pagoda were each extraordinary wonders for the period of their making. However, there was more mention of Gold than there was actual Gold. Too many centuries of theft and corruption had taken their toll, but Durbar was still a wondrously worth while visit.

In 90 degree heat, we walked and looked till a shaded local outdoor restaurant beckoned. There we slurped Hot Soup to cool down, followed by a shared White of Egg and Mushroom omelet with tear and eat Nepalese Sourdough Bread. Iced Tea was a better choice than beer. We thought the meal very India influenced, which often proved the case.

While taxiing back to the hotel, the sky blackened and with the zap of crashing thunder, lightening bolts lit the heavens, releasing a downpour the likes of which we had seldom seen. Driving speed dropped from 15 mph to 5, to inching along.

While picking up our room key, a Japanese group checked in, not unusual since travelers from Japan were the hotel’s largest cliental group.

Dinner leaned to their taste. Miso Soup followed by Teriyaki Chicken, Rice, Eggplant, Pureed Pumpkin and a water bottle. Desert, a fresh sliced orange. I noticed many of the guests instead of the bottled water, drank as I did, the Japanese Beer of the moment, Asahi.

That night we slept the sleep of the innocent with the howls of the dogs and other animals seemingly far off, and mainly drowned out by a humming air conditioner.

Following Breakfast, a duplicate of the previous day’s most satisfying one, we began what became a 3-hour walk to and from nearby Patan.

From an LA Times Travel article we had learned of and seen pictures of lost wax process sculpturing perfected by Patan-based artisan Rejasz, Not only did we find his studio, we met him and chatted, mainly with gestures and his little English. When we showed him the article, he remembered the writer’s visit, then gave us a gracious demonstration of his great skilled hammer work on Bronze, Silver and Gold. Some of his items were so elaborate and costly they would wind up either in very wealthy person’s collection or a museum. After a friendly half hour including Tea, we made purchases within our means which his business minded daughter shipped to LA for us.

The entire of Patan was worth the walking visit; with it’s many Stupas and Temples. And locals, who like a buzz of bees, hurried here and there, by foot, by bicycle, motor-bike, in 3-wheeled cabs, taxis and van buses.

At our slower pace, we wandered amused by all that hyper activity. Our wandering brought us to the odors drifting from a noodle restaurant. Since it was about lunchtime, it was too tempting to pass. Run by a Japanese trained Noodle chef and his somewhat English speaking boss, it proved a lucky find.

Claryce had Cold Noodles in a sauce you spiced to taste, while I loudly (it was expected and frowned upon if not delivered) slurped Soba (Buckwheat) Noodles from a bowl of hot soup, in chorus with business people lunching around us, who each seemed to down two or three huge helpings. Dessert were Buckwheat Orange-flavored Cakes along with brewed Buckwheat Tea. What do you think was the name of the restaurant?

From Patan, we taxied to the area of the famous 5-Star Sherpa Hotel, which was literally surrounded by hundreds of hole-in-the-wall tourist shops offering so many purchase possibilities we were quickly exhausted and ducked into a book store, just in time as the sky opened with a rare but tremendous 20 minute hail storm, pelting pellets one to two inches large. To chat about it, we tucked into the famed 5-Star Anapuna Hotel for a stiff upper Tanqueray and non stiff Nepalese Wine.

Our next day’s adventure ended in a most unique restaurant. The day itself, was unique as well, beginning with a 365 step climb among hundreds of Rhesus monkeys up to “The Monkey Temple” - Karmapa Monastery and Vasundhara Temple complex. That day seemed to be for us a Temple & Monastery day, with an hour stop at the National Museum and the Svayambhunath Mahachaityam, the temple with amazing paintings that involved stories from the tradition of Indian-Nepalese Buddhist history, dubbed “The Cradle of Vajrayana tradition”, Claryce and I Americanized that belief into “what is now and what is to come”.

Our final stop was at a 100 year old Stupa displaying a huge freshly painted “Eye” draped with hundreds of colored banners. The attraction drew with pomp both Government and Religious leaders, served as the hub of a Yogambara celebration, promoting the art of Nepal, Bhutan, India, Tibet, China and Mongolia.

But, we promised a unique food story about a unique restaurant. Near the Convention Hall is that restaurant, “The Bakery”. What makes it unique is that all the waiters, waitresses and kitchen staff are deaf and communicate only through sign language. Which was how we ordered, using sign language shown how by pictures in the menu.

Because “The Bakery” specialized in oven baked dishes, we shared a Pizza with Chicken, Sausage and Yak cheese. Beer did nicely alongside. For dessert the sweet was a unique sweet. (Yum!) Rum Raisin Ice.

The next day, a neighborhood walking and looking day, found us catching a pick-me-up lunch at the 5-Star Yak Hotel, watching the completion of a new swimming pool with a model of the Titanic, sinking.

A walking afternoon ultimately brought us back to the “Bakery” to watch more of the efficient, inspired work ethic of the deaf staff. We learned they actually earn more than the average wage because they attract so many Western customers. For them, it was sufficient income for independent living in The Bakery–supplied housing. What a wonderful concept. We were certain they shared many tips in a country where tipping was not common. Ours was smilingly received.

Late next afternoon, our tour group arrived, played in with music from a Sitar, Trombone, Drums and a strange sounding Electric Viola.

Hungry all, they and we, the dining room beckoned with what was intended as an introduction feast after introductions which were cut short since many had identified themselves on their flight in. Starting with Spinach Pancakes made with Momo (Nepalese Spinach) and drenched with Oil (Yak Oil?), a traditional Nepalese Dish, left many with an empty tummy, especially those who hadn’t eaten in 6 hours. Disappointment quickly turned to smiles when a Meat Loaf was served with bowls of Brown Rice, Cauliflower and Roasted Potatoes; we thought it was Goat but said nothing. Dessert was an unusual flavored Yogurt (Yak Milk & Cheese?) Finally, came a toast to a successful visit, with a Slivovitz like fire water called Mai Tai, which we meet again when we visit China. Next morning, few joined me at 6 for an hour of basic Yoga. Smart Claryce, not.

From Katmandu, our group moved to the “The Fort Hotel” at the foot of the snow-caped Himalayas, with many town signs indicating that we were “At The Top Of The Earth.” Like we had at many other photo op locations, we were out by 5:00 to capture the pre-dawn glow and watch the Sun paint the mountains as it rose. Working hard to catch each step in the sequence with its light exposure change, by six when the light deteriated and we were quite sweaty, we headed for Breakfast.

Lots of comfort food: Pancakes, Noodles, Omelets to order, Fresh Baked Bread and most important, scalding mugs of bite-your-tongue Coffee and Tea. From a night so frigid we slept with hot water bottles at our feet, to a morning’s picture taking hour in the 30’s, to a 10 am comfortable high of 60’s, we were obviously in a constant cold/flu/pneumonia zone.

Watching, we mimicked the locals who constantly peeled off layers of clothes during the day, only to replace them as the day lost its heat. Bottles of Johnny Walker Black and Red appeared at the bar, primarily for the foreign taste, while the locals all chugged dreaded Nepalese Beer, or fermented Yak Milk. No accounting for taste. Theirs or ours?

Dinner was Trout caught at a nearby lake, Stir-Fried Chinese Vegetables but in place of Rice, French Fries for us American tourists.

Next morning, we flew via Lumbini Airlines to Chitwan National Park in Bharatpur, where our highlight was to be a jungle photo hunt from the back of an elephant. At a river bank, waiting for canoes to come fetch us, we picnicked on Fried Chicken, Yak Cheese sandwiches, a hard boiled Egg, Orange Juice and mini-red Bananas.

At Chitwan, all the bungalows were stilt-mounted and open on all sides, privacy was had by closing bamboo window covers. The plan was for us to have two Elephant rides. During the first we learned the difference between White and Black Hippos. The Black Hippo had wet mud, the White’s mud had already dried. Wow! Was that a major learn!

Elephants do not walk, they plod, left front forward, you slide left, right rear forward, you slide right. Then repeat with right forward and left rear. A very strange rhythm. We likened the movement to being in a boat on the crest of an undulating, never-ending wave.

First, we traveled along a flat road, then in a small stream, then through endless reeds. Animals seen, other than Hippos, were Rhesus and White Faced Monkeys plus too many bird species to sort. Eating reeds as they moved, every so often the beast “exhausted” a blast of air and an excavation of stool, creating an aroma of major discomfort to perfume almost the entire “walk”. Taking pictures from that moving platform was a challenge of righting poor camera angles. Increasing exposure speed helped.

My notes say, that day’s diary entry was penned at what was called “The Round House”, a open on all side gathering place-bar, where I managed to salvage a Beefeater on ice. But I was not alone. That day, a sudden thirst came upon us all.

Without leaving “The Roundhouse” we dined on Pork Kabobs, Potatoes dowsed with a heavily Onioned gravy, Ratatouille and a dessert of what I think was a Jelly Mold Cake. When leaving, I noted the Beefeater bottle would soon require replacement. I certainly intended to help finish it.

Morning was early, with us ready at 5:30 for a 1–½ hour “Elephant Walk”. As we plodded along, disappointedly, we saw no jungle beasts, but did spot Leopard tracks, “scratched” into the path and urinated upon, claiming that territory. Definitely we were the trespassers there.

Time passed quickly for the first hour, but then began to wear, with no animals to see and I believe the elephants also tired of us, they just stopped to feed on roadside reeds. Fortunately, real food awaited us.

The elephants were rewarded with bales of hay and we with Scrambled Eggs and Spam slices, Fried Potatoes and Onions, plus steaming hot Beverages. Much preferred by us was that the elephants had the hay. .

By noon, we had re-crossed the river, eaten a Sandwich of Yak Cheese, washed down with a packaged Orange Drink and begun our 5-hour up and down mountain drive to our next hotel, the Shangri-La Village, a complete luxury in the middle of nowhere. The Shangri-La featured an Olympic size heated pool into which we collapsed. Much too much road travel and activity for one day.

My diary doesn’t indicate any special dinner, but what it did say was that it had a full European Bar, with very capable mixologists. Martinis followed, not only shortly, but extremely frequently.

That evening a noted Nepalese Dance Company treated us to a cultural demonstration of local dance. I prefer not to be a negative audience, but my notes indicate that the dances may have been too different for us to fully appreciate; the music and dance seeming extremely repetitive and to our eyes and ears uninspiring. Smilingly, we gave our warm applause and congratulations.

Since there were no drinkers amongst the young dancers, a round was not in order. For them. This did not seem to deter our trip members from bellying up and quaffing down. But, not too overly generously, for we had a 5:30 wake up call ahead.

Which didn’t happen. At 6:45 came the call. The hotel operator forgot.

The day organized quite slowly, putting us on the road at 8:30, to see a noted Tibetan Temple on the Tibet-China road. The temple master introduced us to a grades 7-8 school class who performed a prayer for us in sing-song rote. Everyone smiled. The temple itself was gorgeous, with exceptional ceiling and walls filled with story telling art.

Another stop nearby was to watch hundreds of Tibetans in a sit-down – hunger protest in support of 7 Tibetans arrested in India. Too far above our grade level.

Returning to our theme, we arrived back at the hotel for a hefty lunch of Shepard’s Pie, Salad and Rice served on the pool terrace, followed at a reasonable interval by a good pool workout.

A walking, shopping afternoon brought us to a rest period, followed by another visit to the mixologist before a dinner of Pepper Steaks, Rice and Stir Fried tasty local Vegetables. What they served for Dessert was only Lemon Flavored Yogurt and Sweet and Low Truffle. Only!

Next day, the Maoist, who since have joined the government, demonstrated their first insurgent act, blocking all roads, including ours to the airport. So, we were pressed into having to put up with one more day in paradise, which we managed very nicely, though the hotel was upset, not getting us out and the next group in. More mixologist visits and a “special” dinner, one that the hotel had intended for the incoming group.

Champagne appeared at the end of our special American menu dinner of Grilled Steaks, Fries, Corn On The Cob and Dessert. Gracefully, we helped the hotel dispose of all the delicious delights, including the bubbly.

One last entry. On the way home, our over night stop over in Singapore afforded us a visit to Ruffles for an unaffordable taste of their famed Singapore Sling. Much overrated at 3 sips and swallows for $15.00.

What wasn’t overrated was Singapore Air’s Business Class snack, a Scallop Salad, then Lobster Tail with Rice. Fruit for Dessert. Air line food? Singapore Air continued its culinary delights from Singapore to Tokyo, where our Nepalese adventure ended. United was delight-less into LA.

Starting November 2 – Read Chapter #9 – Middle Europe –

Part 1 – Czechoslovakia & Hungary Remember, there’s always a

seat at the table waiting just for you. ® & © - David Russell, May 2008

Previous Chapters:

Intro and Preface – http://hubpages.com/hub/ALACARTE

Chapter 1 – France - http://hubpages.com/hub/A-La-Carte-Chapter-1-France

Chapter 2 – Italy - http://hubpages.com/hub/A-La-Carte-a-serialized-weekly-Travel-Culinerary-experience-CHAPTER-2-ITALY

Chapter 3 – Greece - http://hubpages.com/hub/A-La-Carte-A-serialized-weekly-Travel-Culinary-Adventure-CHAPTER-3-Greece?done

Chapter 4 – Yugoslavia - http://hubpages.com/hub/A-La-Carte-a-serialized-weekly-Travel-Culinary-Adventure-CHAPTER-4-YUGOSLAVIA

Chapter 5 – 20 Nibbles and Noshes in Europe + Mexico -http://hubpages.com/hub/A-La-Carte-a-Serialized-Weekly-Travel-Culinary-Adventure-CHAPTER-5-20-NIBBLES-NOSHES-IN-EUROPE-MEXICO

Chapter 6 – Kenya & Tanzania - “A La Carte” Chapter 6 – KENYA and TANZANIA; a serialized weekly Travel & Culinary Adventure. You’re invited.

Chapter 7 – Japan - “A La Carte” Chapter 7 – JAPAN; a serialized weekly Travel & Culinary Adventure -- Come in, sit down and enjoy!