A Southeast Asia Travelogue, Part 2

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By lavenderstreak

Bangkok, A Short Visitors Guide Photos

Chao Phraya River from the Royal Orchid Hotel
Chao Phraya River from the Royal Orchid Hotel


Bangkok, A Short Visitors Guide

Bangkok is our home away from home in SE Asia. It's a very practical gateway to this part of the world. Often the least expensive flights from the US to SE Asia terminate in Bangkok. It's a great transportation hub, with non-stop flights to most major cities in Asia.

But we chose Bangkok not just because it's practical, but also because we fell in love with it. We're city people. We find the contrasts of this city irresistible: the chaos of the traffic and the calm of the monks, the concrete jungle of Sukhumvit and the muddy lifeblood of the Chao Praya River, the genuine warmth and friendliness of the Thai people and the weedling tuk tuk drivers who want to take you to a jewelry store, the hubbub at the Erawan Shrine and the silence of Wat Suthat.

We always stay at a hotel along the river. For me, the river with its amazing range of water traffic - long tail boats, water taxis, cross river ferries, barges of rice - says Bangkok.

Must See Places to Visit

While we've visited Bangkok many times, there are always new things to see and do as well as old favorites to re-visit.

Wats

Wats are Buddhist temples. There are hundreds in Bangkok and the surrounding area. Dress and behave respectfully in wats. No shorts, tank tops or sleeveless tops. You always remove your shoes before entering a building containing a Buddha image.

The most famous site is the Grand Palace, the Temple of the Emerald Buddha complex. The Temple of the Emerald Buddha is considered by Buddhists to be the holiest site in Thailand. There are always saffron-robed monks on the grounds, and you might be lucky enough to come upon a group chanting. Sit quietly and allow yourself to drift into the chanting.

Wat Po, the Reclining Buddha is very close to the Grand Palace - Emerald Buddha complex. Walk the length of the Buddha image, look at the amazing mother-of-pearl inlaid feet, and make merit by putting coins into a long line of bowls behind the Buddha. Wat Po is also the site of the famous Thai massage school. You can have a massage here or arrange for a masseuse to come to your hotel.

Wat Arun, across the river (take a small ferry) is amazing for its ornate porcelain decoration.

Other Wats

We try to visit at least one new wat each time we go to Bangkok. In many of them, we find we are the only foreign visitors. Some of these wats are "on the tourist track" others are not. These are just a few of my favorites. Find favorites of your own.

Wat Tramit, in Chinatown, is the famous solid gold Buddha discovered inside a stucco covering during a renovation of the temple.

Wat Sakhat, the Golden Mount, is a constructed "mountain" in the city. Climb to the top for a lovely view.

Wat Suthat is a lovely temple, with beautiful Chinese bronzes in the courtyard. It's usually very quiet when we visit, and we've often been able to sit and enjoy the monks chanting.

Wat Ratchanadda, known as the Iron Wat is interesting for it's unusual iron decoration. It is also the location of the largest amulet market in Bangkok.

Wat Benjamabophit, also known as the Marbe Wat is a fascinating combination of east and west. The traditionally ornamented wat is made of Carrera marble. It's a good place to go early in the morning to make merit (bring food for the monks) and to watch the process of making merit. Museums & Shrines

The Erawan Shrine is a colorful shrine to Brahama, located right in the middle of downtown Bangkok, next to the Hyatt Hotel. The air is thick with incense, there is music and Thai dancers, and armloads of flower offerings. Buy some flowers, incense, and a candle and participate in the life of this shrine.

House Museums

Bangkok has a number of wonderful house museums. Most have docents who will show you around, some are self-guided.

Jim Thompson House, the most famous house museum in Bangkok is a delightful stop. The man who created the Thai silk industry was a connoisseur of Thai arts. He collected a series of old teak houses and furnished them with lovely Thai antiques. There is a small Jim Thompson store on the grounds as well as a café.

Vimanek Teakwood Palace is an old palace, with a number of collection on display as well as traditional Thai dance every afternoon.

The Suan Pakkard Palace, which contains the beautiful Laquer Pavillion.

M.R Kukrit House is the old, traditional Thai home of a former prime minister and is interesting to visit for the personal momentos of the man and his relationship with the royal family. Open Saturdays, Sundays and holidays.

The Prasart Musem is a private museum of arts and antiques located in an area just outside of Bangkok. By appointment only, one party at a time is allowed in and commentary is propvided by a very knowledgeable guide.

A Few Practical issues

Where To Stay

Do you want to stay on the river and enjoy the views of the Chao Phraya from your room or do you want to stay in the hustle bustle of Sukhumvit or Silom? This is purely a personal choice. Transportation is inexpensive and available from no matter where you choose to stay.

One of the pleasures of staying a hotel along the river is taking the water taxi to these wats. The water taxi (which might more accurately be called a water bus) is cheap and efficient transport as well as being a quintessential Bangkok experience.

Weather Considerations

The best time of the year to visit is November through February. The weather is hot and humid. While there is much to do, it is important to take plenty of breaks in air-conditioned places, drink lots of water, look for shade. Choose a hotel with a lovely pool area. Many people go out in the mornings and late afternoons and go back to their hotels in the middle of the day to rest and swim.

Transportation

Bangkok is famous for its traffic. You can avoid much of the traffic by utilizing public transportation. The water taxis and the Skytrain are both efficient, inexpensive ways to avoid the traffic. Taxis are also inexpensive. Always insist that the driver use the meter. If a driver refuses or if the driver says he'll take you to where you want to go if he can take you to a jewelry store, get out of the taxi and take a different one. Tuk-tuks are often more expensive than taxis and you must negotiate the fare ahead of time, there is no meter. Tuk-tuk drivers are nortorious for wanting to take you to jewelry stores or tailors. The open tuk-tuk exposes you to the exhaust fumes and heat - a big disadvantage in comparison to an air-conditioned taxi.

Food

Old faves include Lemongrass, LaNa Thai at Face, Chote Chitr, Harmonique, Food Courts at shopping malls. If you eat street food, make sure it's cooked and steer clear of seafood. Other than that, the food is fabulous.

And Much More...

Of course there is much more to report and we will be adding a new capsule soon to include shopping, medical care, spas, and massage (and whatever else we think of by then).

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