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A St. Kitts experience: Brimstone Hill

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By J D Murrah


Travelling to Brimstone Hill is an adventure in itself


When my family and I visited St. Kitts, one of the sites we visited was a site known as Brimstone Hill. Brimstone Hill is the name given to an old hilltop British fort located on the island. Brimstone Hill has received a "World Heritage Site" designation as well.

At one time, Brimstone Hill at St. Kitts was referred to as the “Gibraltar of the West” since the British fort located there had such a commanding view and held such a strategic location in the Caribbean. The fort is located atop a dormant volcano and can be seen from many locations on the island.On clear days, several nearby islands can be seen from atop the fortification.


The journey to the fort turned interesting very quickly. Shortly after leaving the main paved road that encircles the island, we found ourselves going deeper into tropical surroundings. Besides going deeper into the rainforest surroundings, the road began climbing steeply. Although we had been to many other military sites, such as Vicksburg, Elkhorn Tavern, Sharpsburg, Shiloh and Gettysburg, the roads were never as rugged and challenging as this. At times the road became a single lane where you needed to honk on approaching the curves in order to make sure someone is not coming from the other direction. After navigating several blind curves and steep inclines, we finally arrived at the fort. The road opened up before us into a parking lot.


The fort covers 38 acres and is of a polygonal design. Since it is constructed on several levels, the scope of how big the structure is not often realized. The main fort is situated 800 feet above sea level. The stone fort was assembled of cut black volcanic stones brought up the hill and fitted for its construction. The fort was constructed with slave labor. The walls were seven feet thick in some portions and many of the cannons were still positioned along the walls. The volcanic stone was also known as 'brimstone'. The vistas from the fort were amazing. Since it was not the clearest on the day we visited, we missed out on the claims that one can see up to seven islands on such days. We did see the island of Saba.


The displays and tour information emphasized the forts construction and the roles undertaken by slaves in the daily operations of the fort. In the days of its operation, being assigned to "Brimstone Hill" was seen as a punishment to British military staff to be stationed in the Caribbean, due to the tropical heat. The garrisons also contended with the sulpher (brimstone) smell which was common in the area.


The military and political history of the structure was very minimal. When I visited the gift shop and bookstore, there were few books on the history of the events occurring there. Most of the books focused on the construction of the fort. There were many picture books and maps of the island, which were very nice, although books conveying the military events that transpired there were minimal. When I asked them about such a history book on Brimstone Hill, the staff claimed that they were sold out and that it was on order.

It was only later, on visiting a bookstore in the capitol city of Bassaterre that I located a book that covered the history. What I discovered was that there were massive clashes occurring at Brimstone Hill between Britain, France and the Netherlands. This one site was fought over by several nations, who each attempted holding onto their Caribbean spheres of influence. There were thousands of men who risked their lives in battles regarding the fort and the island, yet the tour and displays only made cursory references to those activities. It amazed me how a fort where military actions took place involving thousands of people from various countries was downplayed. I had seen places like the old Stone Fort near Albany, New York (Schoharie to be exact) which involved fewer numbers, yet had more elaborate information on the small military actions that occurred there.

The displays dealing with the American Revolution (aka American War of Independence, American War of Secession, or in the Caribbean, the First War of American Independence) definitely presents the material from the British perspective which was enlightening to me.Growing up in the United States, it is rare that we were exposed to other viewpoints concerning the American Revolution and its impact in the schools. While the colonials were fighting with the Tories, Hessians and British Regulars, British forces were also fighting in the West Indies. Most Americans do not realize that the war was about more than the independence of the American colonies. What was at stake was the British mercantile empire. Spain, France and Holland all declared war on England in that struggle. Spain, France and Holland fought over possessions in the Caribbean and South America while Britain was occupied with the colonies. Brimstone Hill was Britain's attempt to hold her possessions in the area.

The site allows those who love to wander historic areas, rather than be restricted from most of the site. Many of the cannon are still located in their positions, which allow visitors to see the advantage the defenders had when facing an invasion force. Coastal fortifications were critical to the defensive policy of many nations in the 18th century. Brimstone Hill was only one of several fortifications located on the islands of St. Kitts and Nevis.

We enjoyed our trip to Brimstone Hill which opened my eyes to new facets of history I had not known. We were reminded of our Caribbean location when we encountered some monkeys on our way down from the hillside fortress.



Brimstone Hill from a distance
ONe of the fortifications overlooking the Caribbean
ONe of the fortifications overlooking the Caribbean
The entrance to the main fortifications
The entrance to the main fortifications
A reminder that we were in St. Kitts
A reminder that we were in St. Kitts
The island of St. Eustatius as seen from Brimstone Hill. The island had been under Dutch control until sacked by the English in 1781, who continued flying the Dutch flag in order to lure American ships into the port in order to capture them.
The island of St. Eustatius as seen from Brimstone Hill. The island had been under Dutch control until sacked by the English in 1781, who continued flying the Dutch flag in order to lure American ships into the port in order to capture them.

A description of Brimstone Hill

Brimstone Hill occupies 38 acres and sits at an elevation of 800 feet. The fort was garrisoned by 1000 British troops. At one point about the end of the American War of Secession or the First War of American Independence (the second being the title of the War of 1812) it was attacked by a force of 8,000 French troops which managed to pierce holes in the massive walls and effect a surrender of the garrison. The fort was occupied from 1752-1851, when a majority of the revenues of the British Empire came from the West Indies.

The structure is in good shape. The planning and construction of the fort is a marvel in itself. The precise fit of the stones is a testimony of the building skills employed by the British. If you have seen the movie Pirates of the Caribbean, then you can appreciate the tasks undertaken by the British garrisons stationed here on St. Kitts in their efforts to curtail pirate activities in the area and maintain the outpost.

Many of the area of the structure are open for exploration, including the kitchen and latrine areas. Such areas often spark many questions from children wanting to know how people lived, eat, slept and performed other functions. The vistas from the fort are also worth the trip.

In terms of Caribbean and St. Kitts history, the events occurring at the fort were important. The sacking of St. Eustatis is not one of the more noble points of British history, nor the surrender of its garrison to the French. These events were key incidents in the unfolding history of the Caribbean islands and the West Indes as a whole. The nations of the world competed for the revenues of the area. The fortunes of nations were at stake with what occurred here at Brimstone Hill, since European wealth at one point relied on the sugar and other products of the West Indies. Despite the significant part it played in international events, the fort is rarely mentioned in textbooks and world history accounts.

The fortresses key position and promient prescene also served as a reminder to those woking in the sugar cane fields that the Britsh were in charge. Such a strong message discouraged uprisings and defiance of the empire's authority throughout the island and the Caribbean. The strong fortress is also a testimony of the lengths that nations often resort to in order to maintain control of their wealth and influence. Although the shiny things that money purchases are often more fascinating to look at, the lengths nations go to in order to hold onto their wealth is also worth consideration.

The snack shop at Brimstone Hill.Ting is a popular local drink made in St. Kitts.
The snack shop at Brimstone Hill.Ting is a popular local drink made in St. Kitts.
Some of the roads leading into the tropical rain forests
Some of the roads leading into the tropical rain forests

Scenic shots from inside Brimstone Hill

The author walking the interior of Brimstone Hill, once considered the Gibraltar of the West
The author walking the interior of Brimstone Hill, once considered the Gibraltar of the West

Comments

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kpfingaz profile image

kpfingaz  says:
2 years ago

Wow. Amazing pictures and scenery. I've heard of Brimstone Hill from Geography class I think. Very, very cool hub.

J D Murrah profile image

J D Murrah  says:
2 years ago

Thank you. I tried to capture some of the experience for the readers. The vistas were wonderful. There was a slight breeze, yet at the higher elevation, one experienced the tropical sun with greater force.

Regards,

Jeff Murrah

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