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A Walk on the Wild Side – Christmas 1970 on the Transkei Wild Coast

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By tonymac04

View from the front verandah of the cottage at Qolora River Mouth

Me, with that camera!
Me, with that camera!

The Wild Coast

The Transkei Wild Coast is a scenic wonderland of unspoilt beaches, gently rolling hills covered with lush green grass interspersed with some rugged ravines, dramatic cliff faces topped with wild banana trees with ferns growing out of the cracks in the rocks.

In summer the Wild Coast is a hot, moist stub-tropical area with mists that roll over the hills and make one's skin damp, the leaves of trees drip and animals almost disappear on the roads, creating real hazards for drivers.

This is the region my first wife Joan (we had been married a year then) set off for from Durban where we were then living in our hired car in the middle of December 1970 for a holiday with my parents and my brother Chris and his wife Maxine and their three-year-old daughter Andromeda (known as Meda).


Typical Transkei scene of huts on the ridge of a hill
Typical Transkei scene of huts on the ridge of a hill
First view of the sea coming up to Qolora River Mouth
First view of the sea coming up to Qolora River Mouth
A cow walks past, oblivious to the beauty of the countryside around her
A cow walks past, oblivious to the beauty of the countryside around her
One of the rugged ravines, dramatic cliff faces topped with wild banana trees with ferns growing out of the cracks in the rocks
One of the rugged ravines, dramatic cliff faces topped with wild banana trees with ferns growing out of the cracks in the rocks

Lovely beyond any singing of it

The drive down to the Wild Coast was uneventful and the scenery quite beautiful, as it is at that time of year. Natal and the former Transkei are very similar across either side of the border between them.

As we drove through the little town of Ixopo on the kwa-Zulu Natal side of the border we were reminded of the wonderful opening sentences of Alan Paton's Cry the Beloved Country: “There is a lovely road that runs from Ixopo into the hills. These hill are grass-covered and rolling, and they are lovely beyond any singing of it.”

We drove along many such roads, past many such grass-covered and rolling hills, with the huts of the people and their goats and sheep and large black pigs, their cattle and stands of maize. It was a beautiful journey with a beautiful destination.

At that time I did not have a great camera, but I took photos anyway and whenever I could to try to capture the loveliness of the scenery and its people. The accompanying photos were all taken on this magical holiday, which was the last time we were all together as a family until my parents celebrated their 50th wedding anniversary in 1985, so it is a special time in my memory.


Maxine and mother doing a jigsaw puzzle on the verandah while Meda does her own thing
Maxine and mother doing a jigsaw puzzle on the verandah while Meda does her own thing
The cottage from the back, showingthe kitchen door and rainwater tank
The cottage from the back, showingthe kitchen door and rainwater tank
Our neighbour's cottage and the hotel Trenneries in the background
Our neighbour's cottage and the hotel Trenneries in the background
Chris with Meda
Chris with Meda

The cottage at the sea

We arrived at my parent's little cottage at Qolora Mouth in the late afternoon and it was a time of first meetings – Joan and I had not met Maxine or Andromeda before, and Joan had not met Chris either. My parents had brought Joan's mother from East London to join us. So it was a happy time, as I guess Christmas is supposed to be.

Our days at Qolora were peaceful, spent in long walks on the beach and the occasional dips in the warm Indian Ocean.

Due to the legislation governing the so-called “Bantu reserves” under the apartheid regime, white people were not allowed to own property but could get permission from the local chief to build and occupy beach cottages. So the cottage my parents had was not strictly theirs. They were allowed to take holidays there only. So there was no incentive to “improve” these cottages in any way.

As a consequence this cottage had no running water or electricity. Water was collected from a little spring that flowed, winter and summer, with the sweetest, freshest water imaginable, just behind the cottage. At night we played canasta or read by the light of candles and paraffin lamps.

The cottage itself had two bedrooms on either side of the little living room, and a small kitchen at the back. On either side of the front stoop (verandah) were two thatched huts, in one of which Joan and I slept and in the other Chris, Maxine and Andromeda. Joan's mother had one room in the cottage and my parents the other.

On Christmas day the Anglican priest from Butterworth, whom we knew well, Fr Woods, came to celebrate a Christmas mass to which some of us went.


Rock formation near the mouth of the river
Rock formation near the mouth of the river
Christmas lunch with mother, Chris, Maxine, Meda, father, Joan's mother and Joan.
Christmas lunch with mother, Chris, Maxine, Meda, father, Joan's mother and Joan.
New Year's Day visitors
New Year's Day visitors
In all his finery
In all his finery

Christmas and New Year

Christmas lunch was a happy time with presents all round and of course wonderful food. My mother was especially good at making steamed Christmas pudding, something of an anomaly in the hot summer weather, but enjoyable nonetheless.

On New Year's Day a group of local people came around looking for the traditional “Christmas Box” and so we were entertained by their singing and dancing.

The “Wild Coast” did not get that name for nothing! Historically it was a wild place, where the seafarers of old feared the rocks and contrary currents and winds. Many a ship came to grief on the treacherous rocks that stick out into the ocean along its shoreline. There are many stories of the survivors of shipwrecks being taken care of by the local people.

But for us that December it was the setting for an idyllic time of relaxation and fun, of getting to know each other anew, of celebration.

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Maxine and Meda on the rocks
Maxine and Meda on the rocks

Comments

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Jean H  says:
2 months ago

I love that you have digitised these photos and written of this happy memory. It reminds me of my happy childhood in South Africa. (I was 5 then). Despite the awful political and social situation, it was possible to enjoy simple happy times. I wonder what has happened to those cottages now?

Life these days seems very different with the constant demands of mobile phones, e-mail etc. It is much less easy to get away from it all.

Love the hippy shirt and trousers on the beach

Paradise7 profile image

Paradise7  says:
6 weeks ago

This was terrific. Love those real photos, with real people in them. None of us had really great cameras in the 1970's, and I think the pics came out pretty well. I just like the way you remembered that holiday and wrote this hub, very much.

ethel smith profile image

ethel smith  says:
6 weeks ago

Lovely

Catherine R profile image

Catherine R  says:
6 weeks ago

What a fantastic trip. How wonderfully simple things were then. Like Jean H I remember my lovely childhood holidays in SA and so this hub was a treat!

tonymac04 profile image

tonymac04  says:
6 weeks ago

Thanks everyone for your lovely comments! It was a special time and you have made it more special for me. Thanks

Love and peace

Tony

myownworld profile image

myownworld  says:
6 weeks ago

fascinating read...and lovely pics! thanks for taking us on this journey with you. really enjoyed reading. keep writing..!

Info Help profile image

Info Help  says:
3 weeks ago

Wow, you took a fond memory and turned it into words. You did a great job with this hub and adding the pictures makes it so much more personal. I really enjoyed reading this hub from you!

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