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Dog Discipline - Hitting, Spanking, Slapping, Beating a Dog

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By shibashake


Dog Discipline - Hitting, Spanking, Slapping, Beating a Dog.

Does Hitting, Spanking, Slapping, and Beating a Dog Work?

Hitting, spanking, slapping, and beating a dog is sometimes used as a form of dog discipline or dog punishment.

After all, biting a dog's ear worked for Cuba Gooding Jr. in the movie Snow Dogs. Will such pain based dog discipline techniques work for you too? To answer this question, we must consider how dogs learn.

Dogs learn through conditioning; they repeat behaviors that get them good results and stop behaviors that get them bad results. Based on this, there are two schools of thought for stopping problem dog behaviors - reward obedience training and aversive obedience training.


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Hitting, Spanking, Slapping, and Beating a Dog

Hitting, spanking, slapping, and beating a dog are all aversive techniques. Pain is delivered to sensitive areas of the dog such as his ear or muzzle, when he performs a bad behavior.

The argument for this type of dog discipline is that the pain will discourage the dog from repeating bad behaviors, because every time he does it, something bad (i.e. pain) happens to him.

A big problem with aversive training, however, is that it is too personal and there is no good way to redirect the punishment.

Your dog knows that the pain originates from you, and is not a natural result of his actions.

As a consequence, your dog may end up learning the wrong lessons, including:

  • Hitting, slapping, and biting is a fun game that my owner plays with me. Let me try playing it with him and with others. Your dog may arrive at this conclusion when the hit/slap/spank is not delivered with enough force. Too much force, however, may result in fear dog aggression.
  • My owner or a person's hand/face coming towards me is a bad thing. I should run away from people or bite the hand/face that is a threat to me.
  • My owner or a person coming towards me means pain. I should stay away from people and keep them away by growling and biting.

If you do not deliver the pain consistently, with good timing, and with the proper force, your dog may get confused as to why he is getting disciplined. He may become fearful and stressed because he is unsure how he can stop the pain from recurring.

Hitting, spanking, slapping, and beating a dog may lead to even more behavioral issues including fear aggression as well as submissive urination.

For these reasons using physical techniques to discipline a dog is not very good dog kung fu.

Hitting, spanking, slapping, and beating a dog may lead to more behavioral issues. Reward based dog discipline results in a stronger bond and a happier relationship.
Hitting, spanking, slapping, and beating a dog may lead to more behavioral issues. Reward based dog discipline results in a stronger bond and a happier relationship.

Reward based dog discipline results in a dog licking your hand rather than running away from it.
Reward based dog discipline results in a dog licking your hand rather than running away from it.
Reward based dog discipline results in a dog licking your face rather than biting it.
Reward based dog discipline results in a dog licking your face rather than biting it.

If Not Hitting, Spanking, Slapping, and Beating, Then What?!

If hitting, spanking, slapping, and beating a dog does not work, then how can we discipline our dogs and teach them right from wrong?

How can we get our dogs to behave and not engage in destructive behaviors?

The answer lies in the other school of dog discipline, namely reward techniques. Contrary to common belief, reward based dog discipline does not just involve giving food to your dog. Reward based dog discipline allows you to gain pack leadership through the control of resources.

You may not realize this, but you already control all of your dog's resources. For example, you decide when he gets to walk, when he gets to eat, what and how much he gets to eat, when he gets to play, what toys he gets to play with, when he has to go to sleep, what he can chew on, and much more. All you need to do is teach your dog this fact -

Your dog is NOT in control, YOU are.

For example, if you are feeding your dog, and he jumps on you or bites on your hand, you tell him that his behavior is unacceptable by using a non-mark (say No or ack ack). Then you ignore him and he does not get his food until he has calmed down and is behaving properly.

If he continues with his bad behavior, you say time-out and remove him to a time-out area. This teaches him that if he cannot behave around people, then he does not get to be with people.

You respond to all other bad behaviors in this same way - by restricting his access to his most desired resources and only giving him rewards when he has earned them through good behavior.

Different dog behavioral issues will involve different tactics, but the overall strategy is one of resource control and proper management.


Does Hitting, Slapping, Spanking, and Beating a Dog Work?
Does Hitting, Slapping, Spanking, and Beating a Dog Work?
Reward based dog discipline is safer because there is little danger for your dog to become fearful, aggressive, or stressed.
Reward based dog discipline is safer because there is little danger for your dog to become fearful, aggressive, or stressed.

Does Hitting, Slapping, Spanking, and Beating a Dog Work?

It may, but it is not the most effective type of dog discipline.

There are many difficulties and risks that may cause your dog's behavior to degrade rather than improve. Using it to stop one problem dog behavior may inadvertently cause five other bad dog behaviors to come up.

In contrast, reward based dog discipline is safer because there is little danger of your dog becoming fearful, aggressive, or stressed. You are not delivering any pain to him, but simply withholding the rewards that he has failed to earned.

Reward based dog discipline encourages your dog to figure out how he can get on your good books because that is the quickest way to get his most desired resources. On the other hand, aversive dog discipline encourages your dog to avoid you because there may be pain involved.

Ultimately, reward based dog discipline allows you to forge a stronger bond with your dog, and helps make your dog into a confident canine who earns his own keep by following your directions.

Ultimately, reward based dog discipline allows you to forge a stronger bond with your dog, and helps make your dog into a confident canine.
Ultimately, reward based dog discipline allows you to forge a stronger bond with your dog, and helps make your dog into a confident canine.

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annemaeve profile image

annemaeve  says:
11 months ago

Great hub, Shiba!  I really like how you explain the possible conclusions the dog can come to from getting his ear bitten - namely, thinking you're cool with playing his kind of games on his kind of level.  There is definitely a great potential danger there if he thinks his teeth can be used on a soft squishy human as a game!

I work with horses, and I've come across people who bite their horses as a punishment for the same reason - to "communicate at the horse's level".  First of all, YUCK to a mouthful of hair, but second - how does biting nowhere near as hard as a horse can teach your horse not to bite you?  And, getting your face that close to an angry horse is just begging to get retaliated against, especially when your eyes are up against the horse so you can't see what's coming.  I've found that horses respond much better to body language and well-timed treats than they do to any physical punishment.

We need to use our "human" smarts to prevent disagreements from getting physical in the first place (oh, to how many other aspects of the world could we apply this?).

shibashake profile image

shibashake  says:
11 months ago

Wow - that's really amazing that people do it to horses! Yeah I think that there are very many similarities between training dogs and horses. Even the whole dog whispering thing first came from horses. Btw, I really enjoyed your hubs on horses.

I really wonder where this "ear technique" came from. I was on Yahoo! Answers, and saw a bunch of people suggest to others that they do this, so I wanted to write something to try and convince them not to.

Definitely agree with you on the human smarts. Many interesting hubs there waiting to be written :)

Nicco  says:
3 weeks ago

So in your original scenario, if you are standing there talking to your neighbor and your dog gets fixated on one of his cats, what is the most appropriate course of action? From my experience, the easiest course of action to prevent the situation from escalating further is to simply walk away, but then you have to break up your conversation with the neighbor which is bad for you because the dog has prevented you from interacting with someone. Also, that doesn't teach him to stop fixating on things.



I'm not trying to criticize your article, I agree that hitting out of anger is counterproductive, but what would you do in that situation? Using the reward based training method, I would guess that you had taught the dog some command before hand like, "leave it" or whatever. But from my experience with my persistent high energy dog, when his mind is in that state, he doesn't respond to commands. You can snap him out of it by stomping your feet or snapping your fingers, but he goes right back into it. I've tried body blocking but that makes him more persistent.



From my understanding, you have to snap him out of it before he goes into that state of mind, but it seems to keep him out of that mindset, you have to be every bit as persistent as he is. Sometimes that's impractical when we're trying to have a conversation with someone.

shibashake profile image

shibashake  says:
3 weeks ago

Hi Nicco,


No I don't think it is criticism at all - it is a very good question and I always enjoy your comments :)


I think that the best thing to do is to slowly desensitize my dog to cats. To do it right, I would have to get help from someone who has a very sedate cat. Have the cat stay with his owner a far distance away from my dog, and then slowly move my dog towards the cat. I would stop every one or two steps, get my dog's attention, and if he gives it to me, I will treat him and move on.


Once I get to a point where my dog is too excited/obsessed/engaged to pay me any attention, I move back and redo the exercise. Then I will just stop at my dog's `reactive' boundary and just let him get comfortable with the idea of cat. I will do obedience commands with him from time to time and treat him accordingly.


If I keep doing this several times every day for perhaps a few months, my dog will get desensitized to the cat, and no longer get excited over it. After all, it has become routine  - we go look at the cat, my dog sits nicely, and we have a good time doing obedience commands. Once it becomes routine, I can start decreasing the distance, introducing other cats, and letting the cat move.


As you see, doing this properly will take a fair amount of time and resources.


Currently what I do with my dog is to stop as soon as I see a random cat and try and get my dog's attention. If he does not give it to me, I move back and keep moving back until he is paying attention to me again. When that happens I let him stop and look at the cat as long as he is willing to give me his attention when I ask for it. Sometimes I will let him sit there for a good long while. After a bit my dog usually relaxes, the cat at that point has fallen asleep, so we just sit there and enjoy the weather.


When I need to go home, I just move my dog along.


Now this scenario is not as good as the first scenario because I am not in control of the random cat. Sometimes the cat will start getting frisky, and that will get my dog going again. When that happens I move away from the cat until my dog is willing to be calm again. There are also some cats that will move towards me and my dog. I will usually remove my dog totally away from these kamikaze cats and try my best to avoid them in the future.


In this way, my dog is hopefully learning that if he stays calm he gets to look at the cat but if he gets too excited then he has to move away.  


My Shiba Inu is actually a lot more calm around cats because my previous neighbors had cats and we used to sit on our lawn and just hang out with the neighbor's cats. My Siberian has never had this experience so now I am trying to do it with the random cats we see while walking. I think we are making some progress.


When it comes to something that is so instinctual - there really are no quick fixes. Using physical force will often make the situation worse because then the dog is making very negative associations with cats. In addition, a physical correction may amp up the dog even more and get him into a frenzy. This happened to me before as well.

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