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Antique Diamond Jewellery

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By Weldon Jewellers


Differences between antique and modern cutting

Antique cut diamonds are generally considered to be those cut before the 1920s, when the modern cut, based on the mathematical models of Tolkowsky began to be used. There are several main differences between old and modern styles of cutting.

With an old circular brilliant cut diamonds there are exactly the same number of facets as the modern cut diamond; sometimes there is actually one more facet called a culet, which is a flat facet at the bottom to prevent the diamond from chipping. Many old diamonds, and indeed many modern cut diamonds, have a culet facet.

Many old or antique diamonds are assymetric; there is no one set of proportions that are truly "ideal". You cannot get perfection in both brilliance and fire in any style of cutting. As you increase one, the other decreases; it is a question of striking a pleasing balance. There is always some light leakage from an antique cut diamond, however many people find the high levels of fire from an old stone to be attractive.

In general terms, a modern cut will have more brilliance, but an antique diamond will have more scintillation. It is a matter of taste as to which is preferable.

Technology has allowed for the routine and labour-intensive parts of diamond cutting to be automated, but a skilled craftsman is still required to ensure that the diamond is as beautiful as possible. Much top quality diamond rough is still fashioned by hand.

The video below shows an antique cut pear shape diamond circa 1890, in a 1920s American platinum mount. Notice how the light moves across the diamond; antique sparkle is a bit "softer" than the sparkle from a modern stone, there is also a lot more fire in the diamond.

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In The Doghouse profile image

In The Doghouse  says:
15 months ago

Interesting information. That is one beautiful ring. Just out of curiosity, is one considered more valuable than the other? I know that the value depends on clarity and flaws etc, but are the antique cuts worth more today?

Weldon Jewellers profile image

Weldon Jewellers  says:
15 months ago

All other things being equal, antique cuts are generally worth a bit more than modern round brilliant cuts. (This depends slightly on location - in the far east, round stones fetch more, but in Europe and the USA, good cushion cuts fetch a premium.)

cflynn profile image

cflynn  says:
15 months ago

Hi

Beautifull ring show us more!! What is scintillation?

Cflynn

Weldon Jewellers profile image

Weldon Jewellers  says:
15 months ago

scintillation is the sparkle you see when the diamond moves. fire is the dispersion of light when the diamond is stationary.

stephhicks68 profile image

stephhicks68  says:
15 months ago

Very cool information. That ring is to die for! Wow. Thanks for writing this. Steph

Sally's Trove profile image

Sally's Trove  says:
15 months ago

Another excellent hub. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and expertise.

I am your fan.

nickchg profile image

nickchg  says:
15 months ago

Thanks for the Hub - I'm going to show my girlfriend, this is wahty I've been looking for - the smart way to buy a Dimond ring, and the advantage with Antique Jewellery is that it has been loved before - what great karma to bring to a new relationship

jg_587  says:
15 months ago

cool page!

Diamond jewellery  says:
5 months ago

Watch the video everyone! it looks much better there than in the photo ;)

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