In his comprehensive survey of food and drink – “On Foods in General” 1702 – in which he took as his premise the importance of a good diet in the preservation of health, Louis Lemery explains his method:

"I first speak of the Kinds and Choice, that ought to be made of Foods: Then shew the good and bad Effects of them, the Chymical Principles they contain, and those they abound with; and lastly, the Time, Age and Constitution, they agree with."

His verdict on chocolate could not be clearer than this: "Its stimulating properties excite the enthusiasm of Venus." Among the foods considered conducive to love games, which were very fashionable in 18^th century France high society, chocolate figures prominently.

Other exciting dishes at the time and for this purpose included venison, veal sweetbreads, bone marrow, brains, oysters, lobster, crayfish, caviar, truffles, hot spices (cinnamon, pepper, pepper, nutmeg, ginger, cloves),amber and musk. Today these dishes are not so commonplace and only oysters maintain a reputation for having arousing properties.

By comparison, the legendary and widespread belief in the aphrodisiac qualities of chocolate has traveled well through history.

From the Aztec period, 14^th – 16^th centuries, cocoa had a reputation as a sexual stimulant. They made a chocolate drink mixed with spicy chilies, peppers and cloves for the purpose. In the same region during the 17^th and 18^th centuries the indigenous indians used to eat a sort of chocolate mousse to make their kisses sweeter.

In 1624, a theologian (name unknown), issued a treatise condemning the consumption of hot chocolate drinks in convents because this beverage heated the mind and aroused passion.

17th and 18^th century France – the period of grandest courtesans - is notorious for its high consumption chocolate – hence Lemery’s statement that “excites the enthusiasm of Venus."

It is said that Madame du Barry never failed to serve a large cup of hot, frothy chocolate to her lovers. The Comtesse Du Barry shops do a roaring trade in chocolate in most modern days cities of France. (The Toulon branch is my nearest, just opposite the Opera).

In Germany there are numerous 17^th century engravings and 18^th century prints which portray scenes in which couples are sipping hot chocolate – this is a symbolic motif of their passion and happy relationship. If a couple were portrayed not sharing chocolate the contemporary viewer would know immediately that either they were not a ‘couple’ – maybe brother and sister – or were a couple with problems.

The “ladies” of Marseille remembered for a long time the fiendish ball organized by the Marquis de Sade, who had the bright idea of providing bowls full of chocolate drops which were filled with cantharidine, or Spanish Fly, the "beetle juice" of which was sold at the time as an aphrodisiac. Many at the ball were said to have developed unchaste desire and so gave themselves up to excesses of the most lascivious frenzy (ooo-er!).

Madame de Pompadour, according to the writings of Madame de Hausset, regularly consumed a tenth of a liter absorbed chocolate amber to warm her blood, especially as Louis XV regularly accused her of being "cold."

Today the term aphrodisiac, whilst commonly understood, is not in everyday use, but the words used by chocolate lovers to describe their love of chocolate – ‘a tonic’, ‘fun’, ‘gentle’, ‘smooth’, ‘sensual’ - are among the phrases lovers use to describe each other.

"Place one tablet of chocolate for each cup of water in a coffee pot and bring it slowly to the boil; when ready to serve, add one egg yolk for every four cups and stir with the baton over a slow fire, without boiling. It is better if made in the evening for the next day. Those who drink it every day save a leaven for the next day's pot. Instead of an egg yolk, a whipped egg white can be used after removing the first froth; blend it with a little chocolate taken from the coffee pot, then put it in the pot and finish off as with a yolk."

Excerpt from : "Les Soupers de la Cour ou l'Art de travailler toutes sortes d'aliments pour servir les meilleurs tables suivant les quatre saisons", by Menon, 1755 (BN, V.26995, tome IV, p.331)