APO ISLAND, Negros Philippines

Together with Moalboal (Cebu) and Panglao Island (Bohol), Apo Island completes the trinity of world-class diving spots in the Visayas. And with its ultra-relaxed environment, seclusion, and fine accommodations, it may be the finest dive desti­nation in the country. Secluded beaches dot the island coast, and cliffs poke through the green jungle. Fishermen inhabit a small village and tend a lighthouse with over 300 steps leading down to the water. The reefs around Coconut Point are suitable for divers of all levels, while the crystal-clear waters of the sanctuary give snorkelers a view of this underwater community. Barracuda swim at Coconut Point, a site perfect for drift diving. Humungous schools of jackflsh are regularly spotted at Mamsa Point. To get to Apo, take a jeepney from the Zamboangita termi­nal, next to Judy's Bakeshoppe (ask a tricycle driver to bring you there), and ask to be let off in Malatapay (40min.). The two accommodations can arrange a pickup by banca (40min.); otherwise, bargain hard to have local fishermen make a "special trip". From Apo, you can charter a banca to take you to Siquijor.

Apo is finding its way onto backpacker radar and is well within a budget travel­ler's grasp. At Liberty's G, bamboo rooms let in onshore breezes, and Paul, the English owner, guides divers to the Marine Sanctuary. Dive with equipment; PADI open-water certification; advanced open-water; Discover Scuba. Res­taurant open daily 6am-9pm. 5-bed dorms Next door, Apo Island Beach Resort © is in a secluded cove on a great beach, (Extra person ; dorms ; hillside huts , beachside . Restaurant open daily 6am-10pm. dive with equipment) Several local fami­lies rent cottages per night; make inquiries in the village.