BANTAYAN ISLAND

Just northwest of Hagnaya, Cebu, Bantayan Island is indeed magical—it's not just the locals' mystic beliefs in aswang (witches). Although dynamite fishing has blasted the hopes of would-be divers, it has left the beaches relatively banca free, a godsend for sunbathing purists. Aquanauts should head for nearby Malapascua, whose graceful thresher sharks have made it one of the Visaya's best-known dive sites. With few resorts and such potential, the island's lack of tourists is surprising, though not unwelcome for the travelers who do make it to the two main towns, Santa Fe and Bantayan.

TRANSPORTATION_

Seair flies to Cebu (30min.; F 1:30pm, Su 3:30pm;; 20% discount for students and senior citizens, 50% discount for children under 12). Bantayan is connected to Cebu by Island Shipping Corp. ferries, which depart from Hagnaya (lhr.; 4 per day 7:30am-6:30pm) and land in Santa Fe. Buses run from Cebu City to Hagnaya (3hr., 6 per day). When traveling from Santa Fe to Hagnaya, buy tickets on board (lhr., 4 per day 5:30am-2pm). Jeepneys depart from the ferry pier to the market place in Bantayan Town (20min., every 20-30min. 6am-10pm). The Island Shipping Corp. office in Bantayan Town is at the end of the road after City Hall. Open daily 8am-5pm.) It has service to Cadiz on Negros (2¹/4hr.; 9am; tickets bought on board).

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION

Off Cebu's northwestern coast, Bantayan Island is a stepping stone to Negros and Panay. The main road connects southwestern Bantayan Town with southeastern Santa Fe, which is surrounded by beaches. For those who want to skip straight to coastal fishing communities, the road begins as Pres. Osmena St. in central Ban­tayan Town. A trip by dirtbike to the northernmost community, Madridejos, takes 30-45min. Nestor's Bike Rental, on the main road in Santa Fe, rents out scooters and tricycles with a driver.

Allied Bank, on the corner of Osmena and Escario St., cashes AmEx Traveler's Cheques. Open M-F 9am-4pm.) There are no ATMs on the island. The police station is in the town hall near the ferry pier. Bantayan District Hospital is 500m down the road to Santa Fe. The town hall hosts the PLDT office ( open M-Sa 8am-noon and l-5pm) and the post office (open M-F 8-11:30am and l-4pm). Postal codes: Bantayan Town 6052. Santa Fe 6047.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD

Santa Fe's resorts are far better than those in Bantayan, and there's no reason to stay in the latter. All resorts are a tricycle ride from the Santa Fe pier. The decrease in tourism due to the terrorist activity in the Southern Philippines has left most resorts short on cash, so resorts give discounts for longer stays. The most comfort can be found at the intimate Ogtong Cave Resort Cottages with fan and bath; family villas.) Along the main road in Santa Fe, Budyong Beach Resort has more affordable bun­galows on the nicest beach in the area, (Cottages for two with fan, with A/C.) North of the pier, Danish-managed St. Bernard's Resort features 7 cottages and a small but pretty beach strip—a true bargain. Santa Fe has some very good food and, during the high seaon, a lively bar scene.EI Paso , on the 2nd floor of a cosy nipa hut, serves excellent Thai food.