A good rule of thumb, whether building a new facility or remodeling an old one, is "plan for all the lighting you know you will need, then add some more." In the horse business there is usually expansion, planned or not. We seem to under-estimate the value of good lighting for horse facilities until we are clipping horses for the upcoming show, or the vet is examining a sick horse.

Consider costs, codes, environment, design, and neighbors when placing outside lights. Most barns will require a combination of lighting forms including natural, fluorescent, incandescent, mercury vapor or halogen fixtures.

First learn about and adhere to national and state codes. Electrical installations for stables and barns housing horses must be in compliance with certain aspects of the National Electrical Code. Particular safety features have to be weighed when lighting a stable that may not be a consideration in other farm buildings.

For example all wiring should be run through conduit pipe to prevent horses and rodents chewing on the wires and fixtures must have protective coverings. In addition to the lights consider that stall fans, clippers, vacuum cleaner, or a radio might over load the circuits if they are all on at one time so be sure there is enough power coming to the barn to cover all your needs.

If the existing barn was built without ground fault circuits buy a portable GFCI power block. Plug clippers, fans, lights or other appliances into the blocker to prevent electrocution should a horse bite into the wires.

Natural Lighting

Sunlight is not only free it is healthy. The ultraviolet light destroys bacteria and viruses, and parasite eggs and larvae. In addition to letting in the sunlight windows at each stall also improve ventilation and provide mental activity for the horse since it can watch what is going on outside. Install skylights in the roof or walls of the barn to add even more natural light. Use plastic or U/V translucent glass that allows the ultraviolet light to come through for the benefits already mentioned.

Solar Light Fixtures

The solar light fixture provides light after the sun goes down. One example is the solar powered security light by Solar Sensorlight, which has two parts, the sensor being separated from the light by a 14" cord. This allows the sensor to be placed in a sunny location and the light wherever it is needed. It runs a 20-watt halogen lamp and can operate up to ten days without sunshine. This light would be suitable at a doorway or an interior light since the sensor can be mounted outside and the lamp inside. It is ideal as an auxiliary light during lose of electricity.

Exterior Lighting

Outside barn lighting will be needed for security, safety and convenience. In addition to doorways and yards a separate security light that is on a different power source rounds out the exterior lighting recommendations.

A simple weatherproof incandescent fixture over doorways is inexpensive and serves the purpose of finding your way inside. A floodlight at the main aisle entrance should illuminate the surrounding yard for security and safe horse handling after dark. A mercury vapor fixture with 175-watt light mounted on an extending arm will provide up to 300% more efficient light than an incandescent light. Weather resistance, non-corrosive housing and light sensors are additional features to consider. Halogen lights are less expensive but only about 40% more efficient than incandescent.

Stall Lighting

A standard incandescent fixture with a 100-watt bulb is adequate for stall lighting. Another option is fluorescent tube or bulb lights. In either case the fixture must be mounted out of the reach of the horse and have a cover to protect the bulb from breaking. Metal jelly jar cages for incandescent and fluorescent bulbs are inexpensive and work well. Plastic or metal covers are available for fluorescent tube fixtures.

Aisle, Wash Stall and Other Lighting

Fluorescent tube lights in at least four feet lengths are the best choice for the aisle way and for grooming or wash stalls. Eight feet long fixtures are often recommended but many barn managers find the longer strips are difficult to handle when changing tubes. Two four-feet long fixtures installed end-to-end will produce the same light while avoiding the unwieldy long tubes required in the eight-foot fixtures. Space the lights at eight to ten feet intervals for bright and even light. In cold climates with below freezing temperatures standard fluorescent lights are slow to warm up to full brightness. Cold proof fixtures such as high output fluorescent fixtures or T8 1" tubes with electronic ballast are rated to work in 0-20 degrees.

The fixture over the wash stall must be waterproof. Prolighting, Inc makes a fixture with fiberglass housing that is impact resistant. The fixture has a rust and corrosive free gasket that also protects against dust, dirt and moisture. Other comparable fixtures are available from Orion who specializes in barn lighting. Orin makes a 4' three-lamp barn light fixture that is instant on at -20 degrees. It is sealed to be water tight for power washing.

Simple incandescent or fluorescent ceiling fixtures will be sufficient for tack and feed rooms, lounge areas, and restrooms.

Good planning is the key. Research the codes in your state, think beyond your present needs, look at other barns, decide what type lighting will work best in different areas of the barn and compare prices. Following these steps will help insure that your barn environment is healthy, safe and pleasurable for you and your horses.