Basic RV and Camper Trailer Maintenance and Repairs
83Older Airstream being updated
How to repair, maintain, update and modernize campers and RVs
Many camping enthusiasts are daunted by the idea of maintaining their camping vehicles, whether they be Motor home or tow behind RV’s. Though similar in some aspects to home maintenance, RV’s require some different applications of plumbing and electrical parts and supplies. While many owners do not have the expertise to repair everything on an RV, there is much a hands-on person can do that will save lots of money which would otherwise go to a repairman.
This article will focus on the camper itself since the engine and drive train of a motor home is usually a Ford, GM, etc. Other than changing the oil, testing the brakes and other normal maintenance, a qualified mechanic will be able to service the RV as easily any other large truck. However, some parts such as different radiator hoses, belts, etc. may be encountered.
ROOF CHECK AND MAINTENANCE
By far, the roof is one of the most important parts of the RV. As long as moisture is kept from penetrating this surface the interior is safe from damage. Because of the tendency of owners to leave the RV sitting out in the sunlight for most of the time the roof is exposed to harmful sun and heat damage. While older RV’s utilized metal as a covering, today’s models usually use metal covered with a type of vinyl, either sheeting or coating. These vinyl coverings will stand lots of abuse for a few years but eventually because of the sunlight and flexing while the camper is being moved, leaks are inevitable.
The first hint of leaks in the RV will usually be along the outside edges of the roof. Here, and around any roof mounted objects, A/C’s, exhaust stacks, vents, etc., sheet metal screws are used to hold the metal sheeting to the walls and roof rafters. They are usually coated with sealer but this hardens over time. Stains will appear inside the RV before you realize you have a leak. Using a quality rubber based coating will usually prevent and repair many of these leaks if the damage hasn’t gone to far. I would advise an annual coating be applied to the roof to prevent having to completely replace the roof. This can cost thousands of dollars if the damage is bad.
ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
Most RV’s utilize a combination of 110 volt and 12volt electrical components. Most campgrounds have a standard 30amp hook up with some offering 50amps for large motor homes with two A/C units or large microwave ovens. The 12 volt supply is utilized for some lights, vent fans, and for one part of the absorption refrigerators. The majority of the remaining electrical appliances use the standard 110volts just like in a home.
The circuit breaker panel is usually different in appearance than the one at home but it works in precisely the same manner. In some cases the breakers are push button instead switches but the theory is the same. Many times an outlet will not work because of the clip together receptacles utilized by the manufacturer to save time and money. These types of receptacles clip over the wire, cutting through the insulation to make contact with the wire. Often the clips do not hold together properly and contact is lost causing failure of the outlet to work. Replacement with a thin outlet box will solve this problem.
If the 12 volt system isn’t working it usually means the transformer, used to convert the 110 volt supply to 12 volts, is malfunctioning. Replacing this can be very expensive if you purchase one of these units new. A simple and cheaper alternative is to use a common 12 volt battery charger. By properly connecting the positive and negative output wire to the system you achieve the same results. Be sure the charger puts out enough amps to fully supply your needs.
PLUMBING
RV’s use a variety of plumbing materials including copper, vinyl and steel pipes to convey water to the sinks, bath, and toilet. The newer models will more than likely use flexible tubing to prevent leaks caused by moment during transportation. It is not uncommon for these to leak when new because of improper tightening during installation. This usually a simple fix or replacement. Older models may consists of copper pipe which may be replaced with the new flex pipe for long use. Some plumbing fixtures may be replaced with standard home fixtures but usually the compact nature of an RV dictates otherwise. Toilets are very expensive to buy new. You can purchase a used RV toilet at most used parts junkyards at very low prices if you aren’t of the fussy type. Pressure washing with bleach should dispel any qualms about germs and the money saved surprising.
Sink and shower fixtures use standard rubber washers for the most part. Drips and leaks are usually repaired much as in the home. If you must replace these parts, the auto salvage junkyard contains many wrecked almost new RVS with parts you can salvage. If you have to buy new ones be sure to search on line before doing anything. A little time looking is usually worth it.
WINDOWS AND DOORS
It is imperative to reseal around the windows and doors every year or so with a good silicone rubber. Although not as susceptible as the roof, these will also leak over time especially if the RV is moved frequently. If replacement I necessary try finding used windows or doors at salvage yards. It may be necessary to enlarge the opening slightly to get a good fit for the replacement door or window. In some cases the glass itself can be replaced. Be sure the window or door is for campers or RV’s as flexibility is required.
REFRIGERATORS
In most cases an absorption refrigerator is supplied in your RV. These wonderful cooling devices have no moving parts and usually lasts for years. They can operate on 110 volt 12 volt or LP gas. It’s hard to believe but they use heat to make freezing temperatures by using an ammonia solution. It is imperative for the RV to be fairly level for the unit to operate properly. An exhaust stack is utilized to let the heat escape through the roof. If this exhaust is blocked by birds nests, wasp nests, or anything else the unit will not work well. Replacing these types of refrigeration units is very expensive. Many owners can replace theirs with a regular refrigerator if they do not plan to be without an electrical hook up. Compare the price of one of these at under $200 with an absorption unit costing over a $1000 for the same capacity.
Camping is a wonderful pastime. By pre-checking your RV each year you are insuring a stress free trip without worrying about possible maintenance problems. It’s no fun working on the old init when the rest of the family is enjoying the great outdoors. Paying a professional is very expensive, especially when he is using those costly new parts. This can put a damper on any vacation. Besides, there is always a certain satisfaction when you can do it yourself.
Appliance update
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Comments
That look a lot like an AIRSTREAM american caravan to me. Do you own one or was it just the photo you used?
Nice vehicle anyway .
This Airstream belongs to a friend of mine, Andy. I installed the fridge and made other repairs. I'm not sure of the model but will find out.
Airstreams are so neat, someday there will be Airstream spacehips mark my words.
I agree, netadept. Even older models still demand quite a few bucks. I'm presently looking for an older "Airstream Bambi" to restore and modernize. An Airstream spaceship, hmm.
Great information!
As well, when doing maintenance, it's good to check for water damage - feel around the ceiling for soft sports, and routinely check all the seals around anywhere that has been cut out of the body (antennas, windows, doors, etc.)
Thanks Ted, I go further in depth on a hub just for that purpose. Appreciate the input.
Randy Godwin













countrywomen says:
6 months ago
Some good tips. Thumbs up keep hubbing.