BATAD, Philippines

Tiny and remote, Batad is a favorite destination of travelers, who rave about the abundance of cheap rooms and some of the most phenomenal rice terraces in the Philippines. Only accessible by foot, Batad remains less touristed than Banaue and the surrounding towns. Snapshots of President Gloria Arroyo dot the walls of vir­tually every establishment, and with good reason: Arroyo recently promised US$10 million to revitalize Batad's prized landscape, which includes the spectacu­lar 21m Tappia Waterfall.

TRANSPORTATION. The trek to Batad consists of a 50min. trip from Banaue to Batad Junction, an hour-long hike up a winding, unpaved road to the Batad Rest Area, and an hour's walk down steep "stairs" and dirt paths to Batad. To reach the junction, catch the jeep-ney leaving from the market area outside Sanafe Lodge (lOam-noon). Unless you plan on spend­ing a night in Batad, it is best to hire a round-trip tri­cycle to ensure transportation back to Banaue. Round-trip jeepneys can also be hired. Some tricycle drivers will brave the uphill road from the junction to the rest area for an extra fee. From the rest area to Batad, there is no option but to walk. About 15min. into the hike from the junction, the "mountaineer's shortcut" veers left over the "saddle" to Batad, cutting the trek in half. The shortcut, however, is often very steep and dangerous, especially with a backpack.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD. Baud's

hostels are quite similar to each other: dorm beds everywhere, and there is no electricity— you'll need a flashlight for the outhouse. The only deviation in price occurs at Hillside Inn O, jutting out from the first hill you see entering Batad, where pri­vate singles  and doubles  are available in addition to dorm beds. Hillside is run by the likable Orlando family, who entertain guests with board games, guitars, and village legends. They can also arrange daytrips. Laundry service is available. Farther down the path, Simon's Inn and Restaurant O is the only hostel offer­ing views of both sides of the valley. Pension House 0 is closest to the rice terraces, farther downhill from Simon's and Hillside. These hostels are preferred because of their spectacular views; additional guest houses dot the village center deep in the valley, a 30min. walk away. Though they lack the vistas, vil­lage hostels afford a better chance to see Ifugao dwellings. The friendly Foreigner's Inn O on the hill is the most well established.

Even though the lack of electricity makes refriger­ation impossible, Batad's cuisine is quite satisfactory. Most restaurants are found in the hostels themselves. Terrace View Cafe and Souvenir Shop O is the one exception. The shop is on your right when the valley first comes in sight. Ginger tea, sauteed noo­dles with vegetables, and garlic egg soup  are all appetizing after the 2hr. trek. Handwoven bags  and flip-flops  are also available. (Open daily 6am-9:30pm.) Both Simon's  and Hill­side's O restaurants serve sandwiches on chapaati (pita bread) and malawach (a flat Middle Eastern bread) for. Simon's makes a mean pinikpi-kan (chicken) and delicious native coffee, while Hillside is known for its more sinful treats: chocolate banana pancakes.