I visited the Chicago History Museum’s exhibit of the clothes and personal effects of Bertha Palmer (1849–1918). If you know the Palmer House Hotel in Chicago, you are familiar with Potter and Bertha Palmer. Potter Palmer built a “castle” on Lake Shore Drive, which has been since torn down (see picture). Palmer made his initial wealth in dry goods. He married Bertha when she was 21 and half his age.
    Bertha Palmer used her money and influence to further the reputation of Chicago as a world-class city. Bertha’s collection of French Impressionist paintings became a foundation of the Art Institute. Another of Bertha’s important accomplishments was to engineer a Women’s Building at the 1893 Columbian Exposition (World’s Fair). She traveled to Europe, shopping the French couturiers and appearing at the Court of Saint James. Her gowns rivaled those of Queen Victoria. As Court etiquette favored national symbolism, Bertha’s gowns were embroidered with corncobs, showing her allegiance to the Midwest. You can see them at the CHM page: link below.
    The museum display was interesting though quite small. I went on the free day, but I still had to pay $9 for parking. The program for this exhibit, which I wanted, but passed over, was $14. (Note on the cost: a regular adult ticket is $14.) This museum is a bit pricy for many people and of limited interest to kids, although a number of school groups were there. Due to the low lighting in the gallery, I had trouble reading the caption cards and seeing the clothing details (which is why I wanted the program).
    If you do go to the exhibit, you can see Bertha Palmer’s diamond dog collar and tiny velvet pumps, as well as a number of evening gowns, day costumes, and coats, some weighing in excess of 20 pounds. The coats were slit up the back to accommodate several sizes of bustle. Also on display is one of Mrs. Palmer’s cloth bags, which has a metal top encrusted with amethysts, rubies, and other gems.
    Bertha Palmer maintained her 22” waist throughout her life, despite having children. That however, was probably not due to luck, but to consistent corset wearing, which compacted the organs up into the rib cage. Therefore, the waist could be maintained at a small size by tight binding from girlhood. Her dresses, shoes, and accessories are tiny. The diamond dog collar might fit on my wrist.
    I know that the Chicago History Museum has a wealth of clothing and costumes in its archives. I wish it had a more permanent display like the Museum of Costume in Bath, England.