We didn't have to walk far before we saw the first monkey. There it was, in a mechanic's shop, calmly seated on a stool, looking up as if to say, "what are you looking at?"

Slowing down to look at the relaxed animal, it suddenly became clear -- we were surrounded by monkeys. On the roof tops, on the power lines, crossing the street -- they actually out-numbered the people. Three of them sat above our heads, nonchalantly looking down at us, another two walked past very deliberately as if they had an appointment at the local hair salon. The town of Lopburi, Thailand is certainly "besieged by monkeys".

Lopburi is a 2.5 hour train ride, north of Bangkok, and it was the thought of seeing monkeys living along side the residents that first attracted us. I was sceptical, and thought perhaps the monkeys would just be a minor aside to other activities in the town. Fortunately I was wrong. Lopburi is a town that is occupied by two primates - the human and the monkey. If you want to experience life with monkeys in an urban environment, then Lopburi is the place to go.

Lopburi's monkeys are a type of Macaque -- the most common primate other than humans. There are 22 species of Macaque, and Lopburi's are the Crab-eating Macaque or Long-tailed Macaque.

Read more about the macaque here. Or the Crab-eating variety here.

Locals believe the monkeys are the "children of the Hindu god Kala -- harming one would therefore bring great rath.

Stand long enough in one spot, and the monkeys would, if you didn't resist, have you unclothed in minutes.

My partner sat down to take a drink of water from her bottle. Looking away for just a second, her bottle was gone, whilst another monkey proceeded to torment and pull her hair.

On another occasion, whilst trying to prise one off the back of my partners head, two young Thai girls lost their sunglasses and cell phones. The monkey scrambling atop the nearby temple to fondle its new prizes.

So, beware of anything that may not be firmly attached to your body. Wrap your camera strap around your wrist at least twice and don't walk into the middle of a group of monkeys -- you are instantly surrounded and will certainly become a target of these simian theives.

The San Phra Kan (Kala Shrine) and across the road at the Prang Sam Yot (Three Spired Shrine).Both of these were built during the Dvaravati period between 6th and 11th centuries.

The monkeys are fed daily at the Kala Shrine, and this makes a good time for photographs and to observe their behaviour and strict hierarchy.

We spent only a day in Lopburi and that was probably enough time.

Although buses do run to Lopburi, I would recommend the train. The Thai train service is very efficient, the staff are very used to western tourists and are therefore very helpful.

From Bangkok's Hualamphong station, the journey takes about 2.5 hours. Regular 'Rapid' and Express trains run daily.

Costs - about 15-125 Thai Baht - depending on class.

Other information

Railways of Thailand

Travelling Thailand by Train

Where in the world is Lopburi? Click the map.