BILIRAN ISLAND

Welcome to the virtually untouched Filipino hinterland. On Biliran, water buffalo trudge through rice paddies with farmers in tow; the police chief bemoans his lack of a patrol car; and local Visayans chase tuba (a homemade wine concoction derived from coconut tree sap) with a quick gulp of soda. The island has managed to stay off the beaten track, but new infrastructure and a growing European-domi­nated tourist force may soon put Biliran on the mainstream map.

Tacloban and Ormoc are the easiest gateways to Biliran. Eagle Star, PP Bus Lines, and JD Bus Lines alternate departures to Ormoc (2hr., every 2-3hr. 3:30am-4:30pm, ). The buses' arrival times to Ormoc coincide with the departure times of the SuperCat ferries to Cebu .There are slower fer­ries from Naval to Cebu: Michael's (8hr.; Su, Th-F 8pm) and John Carrier (8hr.; Su, Tu, Th 9pm). Eagle Star, PP Bus Lines, and JD Bus Lines also run to Taclo­ban (3hr., every 30min. 10:30am-4:30pm buses 10:30am, 4:30pm).

Roughly 110km northwest of Tacloban, the province of Biliran crowns the north coast of Leyte. Biliran, the southernmost town, is the island's chief entry point. The capital, Naval, lies midway up the west coast, followed by Almeria and Kawayan. A dirt road circles the island, linking Culaba on the northeast coast, Caibiran on the east coast, and Cabucgayan on the southeastern coast. A road skirts Caibiran vol­cano, connecting Naval with Caibiran and Culaba. Maripipi Island, a snorkeler's dream, sits off Biliran's northwest coast. Higatangan Island lies west of Naval.