BONTOC, Philippines

Although primarily a commercial town, Bontoc retains the charm of a small vil­lage. The friendly people, inexpensive quality accommodations, and proximity to the Maligcong rice terraces attract travelers to Bontoc. The opportunity to observe local Igorot culture also makes it worth a visit—you'll be walking the streets alongside tattooed members of the Kalinga tribes as well as Levi-legged locals.

TRANSPORTATION. Several companies run buses to nearby towns. Dangwa buses, leaving from the bus terminal behind the Mountain Hotel, go to Baguio (7hr., every hr. 6-10am) and Banaue (signs read "Tabuk," 2¹/2hr., 8am). Rising Sun buses leave from outside City Hall to Baguio (every hr. 7am-lpm). Von-Von buses leave from opposite the culture station going to Banaue (sign reads "Tabuk" or "Paracelis," 8:30am). Jeepneys depart from beside Municipal Hall to go to Banaue (8:30, 9:30,11:30am, noon, and sometimes 1pm); those leaving from behind the Kodac building near Old Saints Mission Elementary School go to Sagada (lhr., every hr. or when full 8:30am-4:30pm).

ORIENTATION AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION. Bontoc's streets are unmarked and, as far as the residents know, unnamed. "Main St." runs parallel to Chico River through the town center. Most transportation arrives at the town circle (marked by a large tree) on Main St. Adjacent to the circle and up the hill are Rizal Plaza and Pines Kitchenette and Inn. The latter gives helpful travel information, arranges guides, and sells the Bontoc-Kalinga trekking map (also available at the Bontoc Museum). Main St. is intersected by five major roads. Between the cir­cle and the first street lies Xijen Computer School, where you'll find Internet access on the second floor. (Open M-Sa 8am-7:30pm, occasionally Su 9am-2pm.) For cheaper rates, use computers at any of the numerous office supply stores. Opposite the second street, a road curves back up the hill past the post office. (Poste Restante. Open M-F 8am-noon and l-5pm.) The Philippine National Bank exchanges currency and AmEx Traveler's Checks at no charge. (Open M-F 8:30am-2:30pm.) Bontoc General Hospital has a 24hr. phar­macy and emergency care. (Open M-F 8am-noon and l-4pm, Sa 8am-noon for con­sultation.) International calls can be placed from the Bayantel office on Main St. (Collect calls. Open M-Sa 8am-noon and 2-7pm.) Postal code: 2616.

ACCOMMODATIONS AND FOOD. During the dry season, accommoda­tions suffer from intermittent water supply. The road to Samoki, which runs across the river from the town circle, passes the newly furnished Ridgebrooke Hotel, Cafe & Restaurant. Ridgebrooke offers Bontoc's brightest, cleanest, most spacious rooms and one of the few laundry services in town. (Laundry per piece. Rooms per person; private room.) Pines Kitchenette and Inn O, opposite Rizal Plaza, has large rooms and great service. Its restaurant features live bands each night start­ing around 6:30pm. Eastern Star Hotel & Restaurant O, near the Sagada Jeepney Sta­tion in Walter Clapp Centrum, has friendly management and sparkling private rooms. Bluebirds Restaurant O, between the third and fourth streets intersecting Main St., provides large, tasty portions. Forget your pets, and try the dog . the "budget meal" includes meat, rice, and vegetables. (Open daily 7am-9pm.) Next door, Crystal's Bakery O fattens patrons up with pudding bread , fruit pastries, and cinnamon rolls fresh from the oven. (Open daily 5am-8pm.) Across Main St., the Cable Cafe and Bar claims it is "where great singers are born." Said singers perform country and pop with live bands each night starting at 6pm. In between covers, they munch on pusit (squid) and down beer. (Cocktails. Open daily 6am-10pm.)

SIGHTS AND ENTERTAINMENT. Before heading into the villages, check out the Bontoc Museum, opposite the post office, for background information. (Open daily 8am-noon and l-5pm. ) Artifacts reflect the distinct cultures of the four tribes in the area. The highlight is a collection of photographs from 1908-09 that record earnest Americans trying to introduce games of tug-of-war to the males of rival villages to divert them from head-hunting. At the end of the day, there's always the Massage Clinic, next to the Provincial Capital Building, where blind masseurs will rub your aches away. Open daily 7am-7pm. After the massage, visit Cable Cafe and Bar, Bon­toc's PG-rated version of nightlife.

TREKKING. You're asking for trouble if you don't hire a guide to smooth out cultural and linguistic barriers. Ask Manuela Cofulan at Pines Kitchenette to con­tact private guide Francis Pa-in, a Kalinga, highly recommended by several publica­tions. Treks last anywhere from one morning to three days. A typical day-hike could involve a 3hr. walk from Bontoc to the Maligcong rice terraces, a 2hr. trek from Maligcong to Guina-ang, and then a 45min. hike to the Mainit Hot Springs, where optimistic miners pan for gold. The return to Bontoc is a 3hr. downhill walk. Jeepneys leave for Maligcong from the town circle (8am, noon, 2:30, 4:30pm). From the drop-off point, it's a 2km trek to the village. It is customary for trekkers to bring gifts—adults appreciate matches, while children are delighted by candy. A longer expedition might include a trip to the village of Butbut. From Bontoc, it's a long jeepney ride to Basao, then a 2hr. hike up the mountain to reach Butbut. The views of Tinglayen village from along the ridge are unbeatable.