Breeding Corn Snakes
89Must Have Reference Books
|
The Art of Keeping Snakes (Herpetocultural Library)
Price: $10.89
List Price: $16.95 |
|
Corn & Rat Snakes (Complete Herp Care)
Price: $6.02
List Price: $10.95 |
|
Corn Snakes & Other Rat Snakes (A Complete Pet Owner's Manual)
Price: $1.99
List Price: $8.99 |
|
Corn Snakes: The Comprehensive Owner's Guide (Herpetocultural Library, The)
Price: $9.49
List Price: $16.95 |
|
Corn Snakes in Captivity (Professional Breeders Series)
Price: $9.87
List Price: $9.95 |
Breeding Snakes
Corn snakes are one of the most easily bred snakes in the reptile market. It's estimated that thousands are produced by hobbyists every year. So when you decide to breed your snake, you need to remember that if you're going to sell the offspring, how will you compete with thousands of other snakes and hobbyists?
But, I do understand that by breeding your snakes, you will get the pleasure of seeing babies born, and in some cases, the surprise hatching of unusually attractive snakes. It's completely understandable, but remember that as you acquire new snakes and sell the offspring to offset the expenses, it's still going to be an expensive hobby that more than likely you'll never make real money at.
Think carefully before you decide to breed your snakes, as making an income is going to be very difficult and competitive. It's best to keep it small and fun, as it'll be easier for you to manage, and you'll see less expenses.
If you really think that you'll make money and earn a large profit breeding snakes, much less any reptile, you're a very disillusioned person (no offense). So please it's best to start off small and enjoyable before you find yourself selling your entire collection because of the burden.
(Note: I don't mean to discourage anyone from breeding their reptiles, just remember that you want to do it because you have a passion for them. Make sure that you're not focusing on money because you'll never get anywhere, as it truly is a competitive market. By the way, I speak this from personal experience, as I am a small hobby breeder of select gecko species.)
So, on with how to breed corn snakes.
Many suggest that if you cool them and put pairs together in early spring, corn snakes will breed more readily.
Motley Corn Snake
Prebreeding Conditions
First make sure that your snakes are in perfect health before you attempt to breed them. Any health defects and concerns, can cause complications with the female and with the offspring. Plus, when you set the snakes in a hibernation state, any sickly snakes will quickly deteriorate.
Before starting the brumation, put a little weight on the snakes, as they will loose a few grams or more. Either feed them larger prey or feed them at a higher frequency. Make sure to do this throughout summer and fall.
Right before you start brumation, make sure that the snakes have completely emptied their digestive tract.
Once you're sure that the snakes have emptied their digestive tract, you can set them at a pre-cooling state, in which you set them up in another tank with temperatures of about 65-70F for about 5-7 days.
Next, set them at temperatures between 55-60F for about a month, and then set the temperatures around 50F for another month or two, making the full brumation period about 2-1/2 to 3 months.
The slow decrease in temperatures helps to prevent shock to the snake's body, going from his normal temperatures to 50F would be a great shock and would probably cause more complications than a normal cooling process.
After Cooling
After the snakes have been at 50F for at least a month, you will basically take the process in reverse. Set them at 65-70F for about 5-7 days, and then put them back in their regular enclosures or just up the temps to their regular temps, however you have worked the cooling process.
After leaving them at their regular temperatures for about 2-3 days, go ahead and try to feed them a small meal, and after about 5 days start your regular feeding schedule and regiment.
When putting the male and female snake together, you have essentially two options.
- Wait until the female sheds once after coming out of brumation. This is considered the optimal breeding period because during this time, the skin of a freshly shed female may contain pheromones that can elicit courtship and breeding.
- Wait until the female has eaten 3 or 4 times after brumation. Many breeders prefer this method because it ensures that the female has recovered fully from brumation.
Once you've placed the male and female together, continue your regular feeding schedule, separating them for feeding.
Although, most copulations occur at night, sometimes they will start to copulate after being fed and after shedding.
You can either separate the male and female after they have copulated a few times, or you can wait until you notice swelling in the females abdomen. Once you do notice the swelling, feed the female often to help boost her body's nutrition and to help reduce substantial weight loss.
Egg Laying
The female should lay the eggs about 20 to 30 days after copulation.
About 1 to 2 weeks (7-14 days) before the female lays, she will shed; after this point, she will not eat until after she lays the eggs.
This is the optimal point at which you should prepare the lay box. You can use a bucket or plastic storage box that is large enough for the female to coil in with an access hole in the side.
Fill the container half-full (or 1-2 inches) with moist (not saturated) medium (either peat moss, sphaghum moss, or vermiculite). This will help the eggs from dehydrating as well as from getting rolled around by the female's body.
In most cases the female will lay in the lay box, but otherwise, she may lay in another shelter un under landscape.
During the laying process, do not disturb the female. This is a very stressful period. You may have to remove her from the box to gather the eggs, but make sure to give her at least 2 or 3 hours to rest after she's completed laying. At this point you should go ahead and offer a small meal to help boost her nutrients.
Corn Snake Hatchlings
Incubation
The last thing that you want to do is loose the eggs after all this trouble, so make sure that you are able to get appropriate 1) temperatures and 2) humidity levels.
You can either use a hovabator incubator, or any poultry style incubator (WITHOUT the egg turner); a homemade incubator made from a styrofoam cooler, heat tape, and a thermostat; or a shelf in a room that has a stable temperature of 76-86F. Yes, that means if you purchase or make an incubator, you need to have the incubation temperature set to 76-86F. Typically, the higher the temperature, the sooner the eggs will hatch, but that can also cause problems with hatchlings that grow too fast, setting the temperature to about 80-84F should be ideal, and the snakes should hatch around 50-55 days (give or take).
When incubating the eggs, you'll want to use a medium that will hold the humidity well. Many people recommend vermiculite and perlite. Mix the medium with water, using a 4:3 ratio (medium:water). Some breeders prefer a 1:1 ratio. Just make sure that the medium is moist, but not overly moist so that you can squeeze water out of a clump of the medium.
The container that you decide to use needs ventilation holes (small ones) that allow air exchange.
Bury the eggs so that one-half to one-third of the egg is still visible. Be very careful not to turn the eggs over, as you risk drowning the embryo.
After about 40-45 days many breeders will take a moist paper towel or newspaper and cover the eggs. This is thought to keep the egg shells soft to give the hatchlings an easier time breaking through.
How to Breed Corn Snakes
PrintShare it! — Rate it: up down flag this hub
Comments
I knew you'd come through for me! This is great, just what I wanted, thanks! :-)
Thanks Rodney.
Ravyn please keep me updated with the process if you decide to breed. At this point you're going to have to wait for fall (usually October) to set the snakes in brumation.
To be honest, even without brumation, my snakes kinda took matters into their own hands, as it were! My female laid 9 eggs on sunday...
I don't think they're going to be fertilised though; 4 of them have already crumpled and the other 5, while they feel solid, aren't smooth like I was told snake eggs would be. We're not sure if they will survive, but we've kept them warm just in case.
It worried me though, that's why I requested this hub; not knowing exactly what to do when I do eventually want to breed them. And at least if I know what to do now I can be prepared in case we get another surprise clutch!
I would separate the male and female. You really shouldn't house colubrids together, even female-female or male-female. Colubrids can and do eat other snakes, so they should really be housed individually. Also, especially since you have male and female, you should keep them separate until you know how to and have all of the supplies for breeding and incubation.
It's great you're doing the research now, though, but I'm sure it would have been better done before now.
I know in general you shouldn't keep them together, but our two are from the same batch and have been together since hatching. They're separate at the moment while we find out if the eggs will all collapse or not, and they're both pining like mad for each other! Quite sweet really...
The problem is, we were told in the beginning that they wouldn't breed unless we hibernated them first, as you described. That's why we didn't do in-depth research. We knew you had to hibernate and incubate the eggs, but no great detail. The guy we got them off had always had to hibernate first and he'd bred tons of corns, so he knew what he was talking about. Unfortunately, around the same time ours 'broke the rules', so did two of his...
We've been told to separate them again around november/december to prevent this happening again. At least this time we'll know what to expect...
I'd separate them anyway... Unlike people, reptiles and other animals don't comprehend brother/sister, so they'll breed. If you sepearate them now, you'll have less stress later on. They really shouldn't be housed together. Reptiles don't do well, in general, being housed together; they don't have feelings like humans to which they get emotionally attached, but they may get a little stressed when separating them. But, they won't get lonely or whatever.
They'll breed with out without the cooling period, most reptiles just breed better with it. It's not necessary to breed, but it helps induce breeding.
my snake slithers layed her eggs d other day she layed 9 for me
my other snake betsy had 13 eggs for me yesterday they were very healthy eggs
an intersting read... i, as ravyn have two corn snakes who have been together since birth. i'm watching my female right now as she lays. its fascinating! 14 so far and looks like one more to come. i also did nothing as regards brumation, as i had read in books from the library that they would only mate after this. a nice surprise though!
i will be seperating them after this, as i dont really want any more, and i'm not going to breed them just for the sake of it.
thanks for your help regarding the eggs and what to do with them, i didn't have a clue. hope they are properly healthy and fertile!!
It's not that they would only mate, but brumation intices reptiles to mate. Good luck with the eggs and finding homes for all the snakes. Definitely separate them.
that was very helpful for me so now i can breed my 2 corn snakes
Hi all,
My son and grandson have had the corns together for two weeks, fixing to seperate as I am typing this. First time they have breed them.
Son has a creamsicle male, Grandson's is a normal. Both are 5 foot long.
Not sure what colors may come out of this mix, any Ideas.
Male has stopped eating is this normal. Feamle is slowing on her eating.
Great site by the way.
You'll mostly get normals.
Grandsons Corn has done her pre-lay shed (6 days ago),. Stays in her Laying box most of the day. Around 9pm starts crawling all over her cage, looks like she wants out. Does this seem normal. Should we try another layong box?
Any help would be appreciated
As long as there is an opening for her to get in and out of, she should be fine in what you ahve provided. She will get out if she wants to. Just make sure that the laybox has moist substrate.
How often do they lay eggs? is it just once a year?
Cheers
They lay twice a year.
We thought we had two females. Since they are pets we didn't want to sex them (ouch).
My female is now really heavy with eggs and we just caught the male doing his thing to fertilise her.
I'm looking forwards to the lay now. I must get a little box like you describe.
You should really separate them. Colubrids should never be huosed together, as they can be canabalistic.
Huh...I love your hubs.Want corns.My snakes bred without even brumating.They are all normal phase even though both parents were Motley.
Yes, they can breed without brumation. It just aids and makes it a little easier.
Hey, got a question for you guys. I've currently got 5 corns. All different colors. The one that I know for sure is a male is our little Motley banded. He's about 6 months old (we've had him for 4 1/2 months), but he hasn't grown a bit since the day we bought him. He won't eat on his own, we have to force feed him cut-up chunks of pinkies, he has very little strength, and his skin is starting to sag off of him. He doesn't show any of the normal signs of disease. Anyone have an idea about what's wrong with him? I'm about ready to take him to the vet, but i'd love to spair the expense if someone can give me some advice on the subject. I'm really worried that he's not going to make it. We've got him separated from the other snakes at the moment, cause I don't want him to get eaten..., he's that weak... =(
Thanks
Sounds like a vet is your best bet. He IS showing signs of illness- not eating, regurgitation, lethargy, and not shedding properly.
All of the snakes should be kept separately, not just the sick one.
Being that it sounds like you've had them kept together, you may have introduced illness to the other snakes. You should greatly hope that what is wrong is not contagious. Proper quarantine periods are a must with new reptiles, as well as individual enclosures.
What if the female has layed most of the eggs but still has about two left which she won't pass? I am getting worried, she has had the eggs now for almost a month...
Actually, Tamara, I really hate to say this, but if you read this it's important for you to know.
About 25% of every clutch will die. They often just wont feed. The skin sagging is a bad sign, it means that though you're doing all you can, the snake isn't getting the nutrients it needs. These types of hatchlings often only survive to be around 3 months old. Its not really a known reason why this happens, it's simple the way of things. The worse thing is, typically the breeder knows that the snake isn't going to survive and doesn't tell you when they sell them to you. Especially with a more expensive snake like a motley.
Also a few other points I'd like to make in general. Though Colubrids can become cannibalistic, it's not always a terrible thing to house them together. I've been in the herp. business for quite some time, everything from Retics, Colombians, down to corns. Corns are actually pretty much ok together, as long as you keep them on a regular feeding schedule and, of course, feed separately. Things like King snakes, they are prone to become cannibalistic very easily, even after years of being in the same cage. Not so common in corns, though it is a BIG thing to consider. Plus, there's no surprise clutches.
All of you who are experiencing those "surprise clutches" take the advise that Whitney's given you. You don't want to breed siblings, and you don't want to have the snakes you can't take care of. But if you have hatchlings now or on the way, I'd find out if your area has an Animal Expo ((Usually a Fair)) And see if a breeder will buy them wholesale from you, so they can have the proper conditions and the market to have a home.
is it common that snakes will bite each other during mating?
Stuart, you may need to seek assistance of a vet, if she doesn't pass them.
Mud Dog, thanks for your comment. I think Tamara needs a lot of help, especially since she believes the young snake isn't showing signs of illness, yet it really is.
Steve, somewhat, yes.
im really intressted in breading corn snakes but you say you cant keep two snakes together but i cant see why not noone else has seemed to ask this question. i always got told that corn snakes like being in pairs or in groups. and is it that nessersary to incubate the eggs, i mean what do they do in the wild? dont mean to sound rude
Corn snakes are colubrids which are cannabalistic. Not all are cannabalistic, but they can turn. When breeding they can be put together for short periods, but it must be watched carefully. In the wild, if you think about it, they have a much wider and vast space, so that they are not constantly on each other and within each others hides. Yes, it is necessary to incubate the eggs, as you want them at a fairly constant temperature so that the eggs don't go bad and so that you don't cause deformities during incubation.
Hi, I found your site very helpful although I still have a couple of questions. I also had the "surprise" of my corn snake laying eggs. My snake's habitat is in my garage and I live in FL where it's pretty warm and humid most of the time. My snakes did go through a period of cool weather before the spring but I used a heat lamp, but the past 1-2 months it's been pretty warm/humid in the garage. I did wonder why my girl was not eating and just found out. So I just want to know is it likely that my snake's egg are fertilized? She layed in her water bowl a lot before she layed the eggs also. I have incubated the eggs just in case they are good. And while I'm incubating, that does mean that they are separated from the momma right? Also, she still hasn't wanted to eat yet, is this normal? Thx in advance.
If she lives with a male, there is a high chance that some are fertile. Consider separating them if you do not want to breed. Also consider that corn snakes can be cannibals and it's not a good idea to house them together for long periods of time. She should want to eat after laying the eggs. While incubating they should be in a proper incubator, and yes away from the female.
When I bought my second corn, I was told it was definitly a male. The first was a male already and they said there was not a problem with keeping them together. They lived together for probably 3 years. At this point, they bred and we got a batch of slugs. We seperated them after that but had wanted to breed prior to buying our second "male". This year we did not brumate but we did breed and we got 21 eggs out of her. She is eating like a champ now that she laid her eggs. We are incubating but we do have a couple moldy eggs that look a little mushy. We'll just have to see but we are very excited about our little project.
Breeding should not be considered a project. Also never house corns together all the time. Also make sure you have homes for those babies and proper housing. Hopefully you do also understand quarantine processes and neve bring home a new reptile and just throw it in the tank with another.
how many times do people have to be told not to keep snakes in pairs? we have a male and a female, theyve always been separte. getting ready to breed for her for the first time. (our local exotics pet shop wants the off spring) just scared they will fight or the female will try and eat the male as she is slightly bigger.
You'll run that risk, but just make sure to introduce the pair when you're home and can watch them.
Confused..... 10-14 days after they are laid to hatch?
Mine took 50-60 days, in 80 degree incubation. Pretty sure that was normalish too...
I never said they hatch 10-14 days after being laid, as I have "After about 40-45 days many breeders will take a moist paper towel or newspaper and cover the eggs," so in this case that obviously means they couldn't have hatched at 10-14 days.
I don't have any time frame of 10-14 days wheter it's from cooling, copulation to laying, hatching, whatever. The closest thing I have to that time frame is 7-14 days from copulation to laying.
I found this page to be extremely helpful , Thank you all for so much information. 2 days ago after a 59 day wait in the incubator Im happy to say my little snake babies are here, my female layed 7 eggs total , only 6 hatched all are healthy and looking great. I do find it odd though that I have a regular brown male & a albino female with the orange pattern but the hatchlings almost all of them came out like our female except 2, one looks regular like the male & the other one is a blizzard thats solid white, is that normal ?
Oh Ive also got to say my male & female have been in the same tank together since we bought them 2 years or so ago , they love being together so the part about keeping them seperated is a little confusing for me , we tried seperating them , when we did they stopped eating & got extremely aggressive , so we put them back in the same tank and they have been fine ever since. Maybe its just luck or maybe the male & female do show love for each other. We bought our female first she was a little bigger then our male when we put them together all they done was curl up next to each other in the tree log I made for them, so more then likely they wont fight.
Sarah, the male was probably het for albino. That is the only way that the hatchlings were to come out albino. Reptiles do not have love for each other. It was just the change of environment that is stressful, and after an adjustment period they would have been fine to live separately. You can't guarantee that they won't fight ever. It's your choice though.
Nope the female is the albino & the male is the regular brown color thats why I was confused about the coloration of the hatchlings.Our albino is the one that layed the eggs in the incubator I made from a styrafoam double insulated cooler. I also marked on the calendar when they mated and 2 days before it was time for her to lay I put her in the incubator in moist peat moss with a steady 83 degree temprature & in exactlly 2 days after doing so she layed 7 eggs. When I spoke to the reptile vet today & we went to see him with our male & female & the hatchlings in the incubator he said he thought the only way for a hatchling to come out albino was if the male was albino so when he done a probe & seen for himself that our albino was the female he said he was shocked he has never seen 4 albino's , 1 blizzard & 1 regular hatchling from a regular male & albino female , he just said he was amazed.
The only way to get albino hatchlings from an albino and a normal adult is for the normal to be het albino. The only way to get blizzards from an albino and a normal is for both to be het blizzard. There is no other way. I'm surprised that the vet couldn't tell you that; it's simple genetics.
Thanks for this great information. I have 4 corns and about a month ago we found a surpise clutch. it was a suprise because we didn't know we even had a girl. So we did some snake swaps and surpise agian... LOL...for someone who is not looking to bread i'm sure getting slambed with eggs.
I would stop mxing up the sakes and separate the females and males since you don't want to breed.
hi i was just reading and you seem to know alot about corn snakes iv had mine for around 3 years and its around 5 foot 6 inches hes neva had a feeding problem untill recently he has stoped eating so i took him vet and they told me to force feed him so i dont that for a month and he doesent like it and bit me for the first time and now he hasent ate for a month and i dont know what the problem can be could any1 help please ?
If the snake is not losing weight, then there's no reason to force feed. Force feeding is VERY stressful and can cause further problems if stress is what is causing the snake not to eat to begin with. How long has the snake not fed on its own from the beginning? If just a month or so, then I wouldn't worry as long as the snake isn't losing weight. Make sure the temps are good and nothing has changed in the enclosure or environment around the enclosure.
My babies are hatching as I type. It's really cool to watch. Your site was so helpful in helping me reach a safe and healthy environment for my babies. Thx!
i have 3 new hatchlings, one of my kids has lost my snake book and i'm not sure when to start offering them food....they are 3 days old
Wait till their first shed then offer a f/t pinkie.
Great info Whitney! but i still dont think newbies understand the whole idea of breeding or the bad deal with cohabbing.
Thank you, and thank you for bringing that up. I will create a page on cohabitating snakes, especially colubrids and the disadvantages of doing so.
I do have a page on breeding reptiles and what it entails, but people don't really care I don't think.
Ok, little problem..... we bought a corn snake for my daughter - awesome. She loves it, and has been asking for one for 5 years. We waited until we knew she was very serious and responsible enough to handle it. Great, right? Now the trouble.... We bought her from a reptile shop in our area, very helpful owners, great experience. One owner didn't tell the other owner (that sold me the snake) that he bread her 3 weeks prior. Now I have 8 eggs (layed last night) and I'm unsure what to do. My other 2 kids would like to each keep one (I have two other tanks to keep them all seperate) but I don't know if it's fair to ask the pet store/breeders to incubate them for me? What cost will they incure to keep all the eggs and hatchlings until they are ready to sell/give back? Is it a fair trade for me to say they can keep the rest if they incubate them all and return 2 to me? I'm new to this; my intention was not to breed/buy a pregnant snake, but the idea of not having to pay for 2 more is inticing. Should I try to incubate them myself?
It's not going to be a good thing to move the eggs that far. It's generally not safe to take the eggs for a car ride in order to be incubated. The only thing you could do that would ensure the eggs made it to hatching would be to borrow the incubator or buy one today. If you wait too late then they'll either dry out or not get stable temps. Unstable temps will cause defects and/or death within the egg.
Personally, I'd say stick with the one snake until you know that you can handle it and that you do really want more. One snake can easily be shared amongst one family, instead of everyone needing their own.
Thanks for the info about transporting and incubating. As far as the other comments go, I don't remember asking you if you thought we should get more snakes. I'm not sure that the condesending undertones of your opinion would be apppreciated by anyone, especially someone with 3 very healthy children, a wonderful and healthy Yorkie, a 10 year old Tabby and a 6 year old turtle in a 100 gallon tank in the living room. We are responsible pet owners who know what we can "handle" and only take on such. In the future, I would curb the personal opinions and pushy views and maybe stick to answering the questions that people ask since you seem to have a plethera of clinical knowledge. Thanks, and thanks anyway.
There were no undertones. I was not saying that you cannot handle the snakes. I was just saying that you could easily share one snake until you were able to master caring for one snake. If you're going to ask my opinion on the subject, don't get upset when it doesn't fit with what you want. I was not being rude and I was not insinuating anything. Just trying to help you out.
I have found this hub to be exceptionally informative, and am looking forward to our first "hatch" any time now. All of the info you have provided has been right on the money, and I come back to this page time and again for reference. I would like to mention that it is people like the last jack*** who posted that make me wonder why you bother. I guess it's a good thing that he listed his 3 children first on his list of happy healthy pets. Maybe next time get your spouse to make up your mind for you before you publicly make an ass of yourself mr.wetfart.
Please keep on offering your invaluable opinions and sharing your plethera of clinical knowledge. Some of us actually appreciate it.
Thank you. All I was trying to do was help, and all I want to do is help others. Sometimes people just don't want to hear what I have to say. It happens. Good luck with your first clutch.
I looked at alot of websites after my kids corn snakes layed 18 eggs. I never knew you should never keep corns together. I will go out today and buy a new home for one snake. I'm just glad I have people lined up for the babies. I'm still a little confused about taking care of the eggs. I have them in a plastic bowl with damp sphangu moss covering them. I have the bowl,with tiny holes around it,placed in a styrofam cooler and a heat lamp keeping then warm @ 84 deg.Should I put a lid on the plastic bowl?
Yes, use a lid, as without the lid they can dry out. But with just a heat lamp the temperature won’t be stable, meaning less chance of survival. Definitely consider a second cage.
I would like to make my own incubator, what should I use and how should I do it?
Also, I have an Anery corn that I want to breed. I want interesting colors, so what morphs should I look for to breed with it? I have 9 homes all lined up already, and I definently want to keep some! thanks!
You'll need heat tape ($20-$30), styrofoam cooler ($5), thermostat ($100), and the containers and medium.
You're not going to get bright and interesting colors unless the anery is het for something. Anery is going to pretty much give you anery hatchlings, as it is a dominant gene. Babies will be het for the other gene. You could breed to a normal and possibly get normals and aneries, but not always a garuantee.
yeah well um im just about to breed my snake and my friends snake but not sure if their old or long enough any answer please
i was wondering if i could get black colored corns from a recular male and female albino.
Not unless both the albino and the normal are het for anery (black and white coloration).
thanks i was also wondering the baest way to ditermine there sex
Pop them. Using proper tools in the vent. If you don't know how, it's best to consult a reptile vet to properly sex the snakes.
Ok, this doesn't really concern my own cornsnake as s/he is perfectly fine, but it's more concern for a snake I know of...
When I had finally saved up for my snakes tank and the snake (and had spent many hours over a few months browsing the web for reliable information on making sure I kept my snake healthy) I went to the petshop (againg, I had a habbit of going and looking at all the snakes, I think this helped me be sure I wanted a snake :P)
Anyway, the day I went there there was a boy on work experience, he is 1 year younger than me and we made friends. He has his own snake called fanta, he thought fanta was male but when sexed it turned out to be female. now he wants to breed her. He seems very much the in-it-for-the-money type. I dont think he thought it fully through. We both know that the petshop would have them. He has been searching for a male, and not long ago af coupple moved in just down the street from him with two cornsnakes and they are going to get theres sexed for him. I'm worried that if one is male, he will lend him and not bother researching the subject (he hasn't done so yet either) and just place them together thinking they will just get on with it. I know this could happen, but I also know they could attack, kill and/or eat eachother. I think he wouldn't know how to incubate the eggs either. Even if he did manage to successfully breed and incubate the eggs, Im not too sure he could look after the hatchlings. I know his snake and any hatchlings he has aren't really my buisness, but I just feel like I should do something...He wont easily consider the risks, once he's got an idea he'll run with it... he asked me if when my snake was older if it was a male if he could use him.. I said no for numerous reasons (which he didn't care about, he moved on to try and find another male)
I was wondering if you can give me any advice on how to help slow his "running" at least until he does complete research (because how it stands, he will try and breed his in no longer than a month)
I have no objection with breeding, I just dont like the idea of him breeding them, since he hasnt thought it through and is dilusional. I tried sending him a link to this page but he isn't much of a reader... so, I would appreciate any ideas on how to make him see some sense.
You sound like you're trying to be a good friend. I think that the best way to put it to him is breeding is very expensive, and very few people actually profit off of it. You will find that feeding and housing the hatchlings and even just two adults can get expensive. Plus in this economy it can be hard to find homes for the reptiles. Not many want to spend.
Plus without a reputation in the hobby, it will be hard to get people to buy them for as much as he may have paid at a pet store.
Pet stores mark the price up tremendously, and breeders generally cannot sell for what pet stores do for the plain-jane morphs (colors/patterns).
By buying breeders from pet stores, you do not know they're genetics, which will make the hatchlings less desirable to other breeders and many others who are in the market. The only hope is to sell to pet stores, but with that your friend will have to sell low.
Breeding can be very stressful on reptiles and any animal, and when not done properly and without the proper experience, it will shorten the lifespan of the animal and can cause pre-mature death if anything goes wrong.
hi your information is great and was an intersting read. I have 3 corn snakes 2 boys(brothers) and a girl (she has her own viv) I really want to breed them and introduced tem today in the garden and they seemed to take to each other.
How long would you say before trying to breed and also should i put one male and female in the same viv at the start of brumation? thanks
I'd say make sure you ahve all the supplies and ability to hosue and feed the babies. It's harder than you think to sell or get rid of the babies, so you may have them for a while.
And, you put them together after brumation not before. Read above for the information you're looking for.
does it matter if the female is much larger than the male. She is approx 4 yrs he is 2.5 yrs
The female should be as large as she'll get in order for breeding to be more successful. Males are sexually mature well before females are.
what happens when your corn snake eyes turn white?
May mean that the snake is going to shed. The eyes will turn a blue-gray color right before a shed.
My friend had a batch of baby corn snake hatch about a month ago. Recently he noticed that some of the snakes have hard little bumps of their back.Do you know what this is? From what little information I could find it looks like this may be from too high tempuratures during incubation. They are eating good and growing. The bumps don't seem to be bothering the snakes. Is this going to create issues for the snakes in the future?
More than likely they'll be fine, but the bump may or may not go away. In many cases deformities caused by incubation are life-long. I'm not sure if the bump was or was not caused by incubation, but if it was, there's little you can do at this point.
Generally, if the temps are too high during incubation, the eggs don't make it. It could be fluctuation or something genetic.
What type of incubator was used?
a home made incubator was used. he made it from a styrofoam cooler, and used a heat lamp to warm it but constantly tracked the temp and the humidity in the incubator. there were a couple of really warm days over the summer where the temp spiked while he was out but he got it back to prope temp when he got home. this set up has worked for 4 batches of babies so far and he has had the temp spike a few times before but this is the first time there have been any deformities.
Heat lamps aren't always the best means of stable temperatures. If you want to make a homemade incubator use heat tape connected to a thermostat to keep the temps stable. When using unstable temps, he was bound to have a problem eventually, truthfully I'm quite surprised he hasn't had any other problems.
It's been 4 weeks, how are the snakes?
If he doesn't want to breed with proper equipment, maybe he should consider making this the last clutch.
i am preparing to breed my male anery type A with my female snow.. hes 3 n a half years old n shes just over 3 yrs and 300 grams so im hoping they will go in the spring for me..also any idea as to what the clutch will look like. from everything ive learned so far and read looks to be around 50/50..just hopin for some snows..and is it normal for an anery type a to have a patternless belly..ive read its rare. i seen one the other day and found it rather odd.
hi all ive got a mail and femail corn how do i start to but them in to brumation.i keep them both under a heat matt.they r both 4 year old can any 1 help thanks
rodney southern says:
2 years ago
Very interesting hub Whitney. Corn snakes are some of the most beautiful snakes in the world. So many variations. Thanks for a great read!