When I think of cotton, I have images of softness, purity, and natural fabrics that breathe. When I buy cotton, I'm told I'm purchasing an alternative to the more toxic synthetic fibers like polyester and nylon. You’ve seen the television ads for cotton--they sell us on the earth friendliness of the product, making us feel we are doing the socially correct thing buying cotton. "Cotton" makes me think of newly washed sheets blowing in the wind on a clothesline on a summer day, or a white shirt just ironed, or vintage table cloths and napkins shown in a Martha Stewart Magazine.

But here is a wake-up call—the workers sowing, picking, weeding, hoeing, cross-pollinating and carrying heavy bundles of cotton are often children. A report published by the Environmental Justice Foundation estimates that one million children are working 12-hour days earning $2 per day, if anything, to satiate demand for a global industry worth $40 billion.

China, India, Pakistan, Brazil, Uzbekistan and Turkey—six of world’s top seven producers—have been reported to use child labor in cotton fields. These children must sacrifice their education and health to carry out backbreaking work in extreme temperatures, many suffering physical, verbal, and sexual abuse. Children have been removed from school at seven years of age to do dangerous, life threatening work and meet daily quotas. The local economies in these counties have been destroyed by the cotton industry. Many adults are forced to leave their jobs to work in the cotton industry and in these dangerous, harsh conditions. Governments have used violent methods to stop protesters of this type of barbarous slave labor. Western companies are complicit in the industry by continuing to buy cotton from countries that produce cotton under inhumane conditions.

China, India, Pakistan, Brazil, Uzbekistan and Turkey—six of the world’s top seven producers—have been reported to use child labor in cotton fields. These children must sacrifice their education and health to carry out backbreaking work in extreme temperatures, many suffering physical, verbal, and sexual abuse. Children have been removed from school at seven years of age to do dangerous, life threatening work and meet daily quotas. The local economies in these counties have been destroyed by the cotton industry. Many adults are forced to leave their jobs to work in the cotton industry in dangerous, harsh conditions. Governments have used violent methods to stop protesters of this barbarous slave labor. Western companies are complicit in the industry by continuing to buy cotton from countries that produce cotton under inhumane conditions.

Exploitation of world farmers

Unless developing world farmers can farm cotton organically they can’t make a living from it and will be forced to abandon cotton farming altogether. Farmers who grow cotton organically can increase their revenue 50% because of a 40% drop in the cost of inputs (fertilizers and pesticides), and a 20% premium for organic cotton. At the height of the growing season, villagers are practically starving because they are forced to turn their traditional food farming lands over to cotton by their colonial masters, and are ignorant of many of the food crops that they could grow—any food grown and rotated with organic cotton will also be pesticide free, providing the local community with high quality nutrition.

Cotton and toxic chemicals

The truth is cotton is a dirty industry that relies heavily on toxic insecticides, pesticides, and herbicides, many of which are known carcinogens. Cotton uses more insecticides than any other single crop, and is responsible for the release of $2 billion of chemical pesticides each year. Workers, including children, are exposed without protection to these toxic chemicals and face serious heath risks.

The industry also uses GMO, or genetically modified organisms, for 70% of all cotton grown in the United States. Conventional farming of cotton is harmful to the environment and requires intensive irrigation, synthetic fertilizers, and erodes the soil by its mono-crop farming methods. That is why organic cotton is the fiber of choice for many who want eco-friendly fibers.

Organic cotton is more humane and kinder to the earth

The organic cotton industry is more humane and kinder to the earth. Organic cotton supports building strong soil through crop rotation and retains water more efficiently due to increased organic matter in soil. The organic cotton growers rely on hand hoeing and physical removal of weeds, beneficial insects to remove pests, and planted trap-crop, to lure insects away from plants.

Factory farms and agribusiness is a major contributor of air, water, and ground pollution, and continue to poison plants, animals, and people. But, organic cotton growers are revitalizing the tradition of the family farm across the country in states like, Texas, California, New Mexico, and Missouri. When we buy products made from organic cotton, we give our support to an industry that is helping to save the earth.

A lot of organic cotton comes from overseas where it is cheaper to produce. I have two sets of sheets that are made in India. But, companies like Patagonia, Nike, Timberland, Whole Foods, and others have added organic cotton product lines, and the market is expanding as the demand for eco-friendly products grows. The drawback is organic cotton is more costly than conventionally grown cotton, so it is not affordable for many people. If I see an organic cotton tee shirt for $45 dollars at my local store, Natural Selections, that sells only organic cotton, I’m sad to say, like most people, I opt for other brands in my price range. However, what if we choose to buy one organic tee-shirt instead of three non-organic tees? As more of us buy organic cotton, the price will go down. And, if everyone purchases organic cotton products even occasionally, it helps the organic industry and this makes a significant difference in supporting the organic industry. Being conscious of this issue helps us make better choices whenever possible, and is a first step toward making the changes both big and small that help heal the earth. My personal goal is to go organic by buying less, but buying organic.

Organic cotton is more costly but no one is price gouging

The organic cotton industry is not getting rich or price gouging; it is simply more costly to grow and produce organic cotton. Natural farming on a small, local level that pays good wages is more expensive. And because the market is still relatively small, the costs are higher. One thing is certain; no one is getting rich in the organic cotton industry.

Our buying choices have consequences. If we choose to buy more organic, we choose to support sustainable and eco-friendly--we choose to care about the children in Uzbekistan. Many conventionally grown cotton products like Faded Glory, that are sold at Wal-Mart, are produced overseas in sweat shops by women and children who work for pennies an hour—this is how consumers are able to purchase $3 tank tops. Now Wal-Mart is attempting to redeem its reputation as being socially irresponsible by introducing organic cotton baby blankets and other products. However, the jury is out on this one—we need to wait and see how this mega corporate monster uses this market to its own advantage, and if it continues its history of exploitation.

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