Can Tho: Life on the Mekong

The recent development projects around the Mekong Delta region of Vietnam have made it easier for tourists to get around what was once a backwater. Can Tho is the region’s hub. Though it is growing exponentially, the town still keeps a bit of its sleepy atmosphere. Life on the Mekong is still mainly defined by the river and the rainy and dry seasons. It is easy to get off the beaten path in Can Tho. Exploring the backwaters of the Mekong can be accomplished either by joining a tour group of by heading to the docks along the river to find a small boat to hire.

It takes 4-5 hours to make the trip from Ho Chi Minh City to Can Tho. The traffic can make the trip via road a bit dangerous, but no more so than anywhere else in Vietnam. A trip via speedboat is actually quicker than traveling on a bus or minibus. Just make sure your ticket is for a speedboat and not the slower ferry, which takes a leisurely 20 hours to reach Can Tho. Both boats are a great way to see life along the Mekong.

Cái Răng Floating Market is a great place to start. There are as many tourist boats as vendors these days. Getting there earlier (before 6 or 7 a.m.) is a good way to avoid the masses and get a more authentic look at the age-old commerce of the Delta. Phong Dien Market is also best viewed early. In general, this is a more authentic market than Cai Rang.

The advantage of hiring a local boat by yourself (or in a small group) is that you will be able to wander through the canals, which run off the main river. Besides the beautifully green banks and aged, atmospheric wooden stilt houses, getting a view of the local life, which moves at the same pace as the river’s current, is most rewarding.

Cái Khế Market is a typical Vietnamese affair, offering all the sights and scents you’d see elsewhere. The river fish on sale are interesting, though the odor is a bit intense. In the evening, it is possible to find a quiet café to get a good view of the river. Despite the river’s commerce continuing into the night, the cafes and the river provide a peaceful feeling.

Can Tho is a growing city. No one really knows what developments a few more years will bring. The unspoiled feel of the Mekong and Can Tho’s vast network of canals remains today, but the future brings no guarantees.