Some of the most fantastic vintage fabrics from India or the Middle East are embroidered with genuine metallic thread or embellished with metal beading. There's almost no way to tell the actual metal content of the decorations but one of the biggest issues with cleaning such fabric is avoiding rusting the beads which will stain or degrade the material.

The main focus of cleaning anything with metal embroidery or beading without creating rust is to make sure the fabric doesn't stay wet for too long. You will want to hand wash the garment or yardage as gently and mildly as possible. Gently squeeze out as much rinse water as you can and try and avoid wringing the fabric (where it's rolled and squeezed really tightly). Get a couple of nice thick towels (older ones which don't put out any fuzz are best) and then lay the cleaned garment or fabric sandwiched between them. Using hand pressure, press the layers together to squeeze out excess water or roll loosely and press. Keep pressing until you've managed to squeeze out as much moisture as you can. For very thick fabrics, such as coats or full skirts, you may need more than one set of towels for absorbancy.

Next you will want to put the fabric somewhere where it can finished drying. Sturdy fabrics and yardage are often best hung on a clothes lines, delicates and smaller items often do better draped across a drying rack or layed out on a sweater dryer. A warm environment will help drying however, you need to make sure the materials are NOT in sunlight. (this damages and bleaches out older fabrics). A small fan set on its lowest setting is good for boosting air circulation.

While the item dries, make sure to flip it over and rotate it so that any water migrating downward in the fabric doesn't pool in any one spot. If areas of heavy decoration or beading seem to be holding moisture, spot dry them with cloth or even cotton swabs. If there are tassels or fringe on the item, try to untangle them with your fingers and make sure they can hang free to dry fully.

Acid-free garment boxes - this is the type of box that is used for storing wedding dresses for long periods of time. Garments are enfolded with acid-free tissue paper to minimize wrinkling.

Padded garment hangers - a thick, well-padded hanger minimizes stress on the shoulders of garments.

Garment bag - beneficial to the storage of vintage garments or fur over the long term. Velvets and other rich woven surfaces stay darker when stored protected from light.

• Textiles need to be protected from the sun. Light exposure over time will bleach out color and break down fibers, natural or synthetic.
• Cedar and lavender are good for helping ward off moths which feed on woolen fabrics and other natural fibers. Special lined wooden chests are sometimes used to store fabrics. Plastic textile bags can also be used for extra light and moisture protection.
  
• Keeping textiles cool is essential for extending the life of the fabrics. Adequate air circulation is a major factor, effecting moisture levels as well as temperature.
• Delicate fabrics often do better lying folded in drawers as opposed to hanging up. "Hangar fatigue" is when a garment is damaged over time just by hanging and supporting its own weight. Knits, latex clothing, sheers and anything with extremely lightweight shoulder straps stores will stay in better condition over time if kept in drawers or acid-free garment boxes.
• Ethnic fabrics which have metal thread embroidery (such as Assuit from Egypt) are best stored gently rumple and rearranged periodically so that no folds or strong creases form.  This protects both the fabric and metal the best over time.
  
• Note on PVC: the fabric known as polyvinyl chloride, or PVC, will break down over time if stored with cotton. It becomes strangely sticky and corroded. You will want to isolate PVC by itself and make sure no companion garments are cotton material.