Carnac the Magnificent

Stonehenge gets all the attention, but as prehistoric monuments go, nothing beats Carnac in France for sheer numbers.Carnac proper consists of three large fields of aligned stones, called Menec, Kermerio, and Kerlescan. They sit at the base of the Quiberon Peninsula in Brittany.

Three thousand stones still exist, in up to ten rows of graduating size, but there may have once been twice that number. The menhirs may have been much bigger, too: a few millennia of erosion has worn them down.

They weren't put up at the same time: some were raised in the Neolithic, and some in the Bronze Age. The main fields at Carnac are protected by wire fences, but if you come with a well-connected tour company, you might be allowed inside to wander the fields.

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Besides Carnac itself, there are other stone megaliths in the area.Some highlights:

• Scattered groups of standing or fallen stones dot the western Morbihan Bay, inculding one called "the Giant" (Manio) which stands 20 feet tall (6 meters). A map of the area (above) shows an embarrassment of riches.
• Locmariaquer, less than five miles east of Carnac:This site contains an ancient grave gallery dating from 3700 B.C., called the Table-des-Marchands (right). An older tomb named Er-Grah dates from the 5th millennium B.C., and is 460 feet long, or 140 meters. A broken menhir, 65 feet (20 meters) long, lies on the ground.
• Gavrinis: a cairn and tomb, half-buried in stones, with elaborate carvings

An excellent site on the megaliths of Brittany (in English) is maintained by the French government.

In addition to standing stones and dolmens, Brittany also features "allés couverts", covered alleys, which are 3rd and 4th millennium B.C. gravesites.

Carnac is more than monuments. The city of Carnac opens onto Carnac-Plage, a popular beach resort. The Morbihan Gulf area of Brittany has a wonderful micro-climate, less cold in winters than the rest of the Breton peninsula, and perfect in summer.

Brittany is one of the friendliest, most hospitable areas of France.

Water sports, bird sanctuaries, music festivals, private islands. . . and I haven't even mentioned the food. Fresh mussels and oysters, buckwheat crepes, ciders . . . My trip to this area ranks as my favorite, ever.

Unless you speak French, though, I recommend joining a tour, and tacking on a few extra days to explore the area on your own afterwards.