When I think about Madrid the first thing that comes to my head is a salty flavour, the flavour of cured Serrano Ham and Manchego cured cheese. Next is the smell of the Cocido, bubbling in someone's kitchen and aromatizing the whole street. A smell that makes you want to sit at the table and enjoy the warmth and richness of this soup.

If you are ever in Madrid you need to have a Cocido. To leave Madrid without having had this, is sacrilege. You might like it or not... but the very least that you can do is try it for yourself.

I always remember a city or a village for its cuisine. I must admit that I even create my opinions on a place largely based on its wine and food. In Madrid, my opinion was set: churros with hot chocolate for breakfast and a Cocido for lunch. This is the most representative dish of Madrid. It is between a soup and a stew prepared mainly of chickpeas. According to the household or availability, the vegetables and meats can vary. It is a dish perfect for winter. Usually it is eaten as an only dish due to its richness.

Like with most recipes, there is no ONE Cocido. But several versions. My favourite of course is Carmen Balcells Cocido for orgies, from the book Afrodita. Mrs. Bacells assures us that this aphrodisiac soup can bring back desire even to the most tired soul! And is not a surprise, as this soup certainly makes your eyelids sweat, so at least you will be doing a strip tease before you leave the table.

However, it is a very complicated dish to prepare. So do not make it for your lover if you are planning a ‘romantic night'. More than likely you will collapse exhausted in his arms after the two days preparation. Instead, do a bit of research. Ask where is the best place in Madrid to go for a truly Madrileño meal and take your lover there. Even better, make acquaintances with a local Señora and invite yourselves to her table to enjoy a truly home-made Cocido, you will not be disappointed.

If however, you are determined to make your own, I will put you off telling you that you will need an army-size pan (at least for ten litres). To start, you boil half a hen, a cow's bone for soup, Spanish bacon, a pig's ear, nose, and foot; and the bone of a "Serrano ham" a type of dried cured ham. Simmer for a couple of hours and add all your vegetables, mainly carrots, cabbage, celery and leeks; leave to boil for at least an hour.

In a different pan you prepare some meatballs. In another pan you prepare the chickpeas. If you feel adventurous you can prepare some morcilla and chorizos to add to the soup. Tired yet? ... I am surely exhausted just thinking about all that work!...

I usually prefer to see the end result at the table. First there is the caldo. This is the clear stock. Some people take it with a drop of Sherry, the greedy ones add a few spoonfuls of cooked rice to make it thicker.

The most important part of the meal is the meat. Tough meats full of flavour that are tender by the time they reach your table. Then, you have the vegetables and chickpeas, uhmmm... Don't forget... if you are ever in Madrid, you cannot leave without having tried their Cocido Madrileño. Provecho!