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You Can Collect Antique Jewellery

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By J Rosewater


How many items make a collection?

They say that when you have three of one kind of thing, you have a collection. This means that you do not have to be a millionaire to start collecting antique jewellery. Even if you stop at three items, you have reached your goal.

Antique jewellery is jewellery that is older than about 100 years. Anything that was made before 1909 or so. But you do not have to be exact, precise or pedantic. Anything from the early years of last century is fine. Any older, and I start to get interested!

In this hub, I'm talking about real gems and gold, silver and platinum. I will talk about costume jewellery in another hub.

Some people think that collecting things made of precious metals and rare gems would be very expensive, but I assure you that you do not need more funds than if you were starting to collect rugs, wine, stamps or antique books.

The best place to start is at home. Look in your jewel box right now and separate the real jewellery from the costume variety. I think you need a box for each.

When you have examined each piece to determine what they are made of and whether the gems are real, then you can start the process of dating the pieces. It's not as hard as you think. Anything that you bought, or was given to you, could not possibly be an antique if it was purchased new at a modern-day jewellers' shop.

If you were given or bought something at an antique shop or at auction, then you might be in luck. If you inherited some jewellery, you might be closer to starting your collection than some other people.


Collect rings in boxes

Sometimes the box can be valuable too.

What next?

If you think you have something made of real gold, with real gems, look for the hallmark. There are several websites that decipher hallmarks for you. You will find a couple below. Hallmarks tell you a number of things including the year your piece was made, the amount of pure gold determined by carat weight and also who made it and where.

The time comes to add to your collection, so you have to seek affordable things to add. Before you do this, you must consider that having things for their own sake is less fun than being able to wear them. So purchase things you can use. Think about it: what jewellery do you like to wear? Some people love rings and bracelets. Others like pendants. Brooches are coming back.

Because rings are very popular, they tend to demand high prices at auctions. Always examine a piece carefully before you buy it. Look at the hallmarks, and determine whether it is in good condition. Ring shanks wear more rapidly than necklaces, for example, and brooches rarely suffer more damage than a bent pin. Worn jewellery can be expensive to repair, so go for pieces that are still in excellent condition. It is always worth more.



Value and history

A solitaire
A solitaire

Rings

Collecting antique rings is a lot of funĀ  - it is also a valid investment. The rings you buy today will certainly be worth more in ten years' time if you look after them. Decide on a favourite gem - some people adore diamonds, other think that rubies are the most valuable - and the perennial favourite, the sapphire, comes in enough colours to please a crowd. Then there is the topaz, the citrine, the garnet, the tanzanite, the aquamarine... where does one stop!?

It would be lovely to own a different ring for each stone. The Victorians invented the DEAREST ring, which is one that has a stone for each of the letters in that word: Diamond, Emerald, Amethyst, Ruby, Emerald, Sapphire, Topaz. They are not hard to find, but they go through waves of popularity, so sometimes they are more expensive than at others.

Rings set with pearls and opals are sought after because of their fiery appeal. They tend to be a bit more sensitive to heat and cold, and can shrink right out of their setting, so only wear them on special occasions and do not ill-treat them with rapid changes of temperature or dips in the bath, sink or swimming pool.


An exquisite item makes a collection enviable

Expensive but worth it
Expensive but worth it

Necklaces and chains

The Lavaliere is a necklace that stuns the viewer with its exquisite and delicate form. It sometimes has more than one kind of gem. The suffragettes used to wear ones with the three colours that typified their aims. You can still find some of these pendants and make a collection. Seed pearls, amethysts and emeralds look lovely together. Matching these with drop earrrings can be quite elegant. Finding a whole matching complete set in its own box will set you back quite a fortune! But fancy having something like that in your collection.

Necklaces were very popular in Victorian times because they could completely change how an outfit looked. Low-cut dresses for evening wear meant that women could flaunt their jewellery, which glittered in candlelight and made their skin glow.

A thick gold chain sometimes had a lot to say in terms of the wealth of its wearer. How many were those who wore their investments around their necks?


Stunning pair

Always popular, earrings have been worn for centuries
Always popular, earrings have been worn for centuries

Earrings

Earrings are possibly the jewellery that have kept their popularity the longest. From studs to chandeliers, they can be charming, elegant or brash. Margaret Thatcher, the British Prime Minister, always said that a pair of fine pearl earrings had the ability to light up your face, even if you did not feel particularly bright that day.

Pearls have been worn in the ears for centuries, and so have diamonds. Garnets are very lovely when teamed with white stones such as white sapphires or zirconias. Jade, malachite, tiger's eye, tourmaline and turquoise have been set into earrings since the Egyptians discovered their value and appeal.

Plain gold hoop earrings are not only known historically for their cosmetic beauty. They were worn by men and women alike as a visible and secure way of ensuring the ability to finance your old age. Earrings were like portable savings accounts!

Having dozens of pairs of earrings works. But keep your costume jewellery separate from your real stuff.


Delightful

Brooches have a practical aspect in their history
Brooches have a practical aspect in their history

Brooches and pins

Brooches and pins have a practical aspect about them: they started out as a means to fasten clothing about the person. Visible pins became decorative, and valuable metals and gems did the rest.

There are pins and brooches worn to signify belonging to a certain group, university, church or organisation. There are christening brooches and badges for schools and clubs. The Victorians had mourning brooches, which were decorated not only with gold and gems such as seed pearls, but also a plaited or woven lock of hair from the head of the departed loved one. If this sounds a bit on the morbid side, do not attempt to collect these items. After all, they do contain organic human parts. However, if you do like the idea, you will be up against stiff competition, because a number of collectors exist and bid high for what they want.

In Georgian times, some brooches were enormous and consisted of large breast pieces which would be divided up into quarters or halves or sixths, to be given to the number of heirs after the death of the wearer. They were often made with paste stones, set into silver with a gold backing. These distinctive pieces usually came in sets, with rings, earrings and necklaces to match. They are very sought after nowadays.


More on collecting

If you absolutely adore collecting and the excitement and rewards it brings, look at another hub of mine called You Can Collect Antique First Editions

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