Coriander (Coriandrum sativum) - also known as cilantro - is a slender annual, which grows up to 2 ft (0.6 m) high.  It is possible to use coriander as a fresh herb, but the seeds are generally sold to grow plants that will produce ripe seeds, which are then stored.  Seed merchants do not usually sell named types, but look for coriander called cilantro or Chinese parsley if you want to grow the plants for their leaves.  If you want to produce coriander seeds to store, choose varieties from Morocco which quickly produce seeds and have fewer leaves.

Coriander is an annual plant, but it will withstand low temperatures and light frosts.  In some mild climates it will endure the winter.  It prefers a light, free-draining soil in a sunny position.  The leaf is at its best during the cooler months, while in hotter periods the small pink flowers and seeds are produced.

Seeds can be sown indoors and then the small seedlings transplanted outside in position, or they can be sown straight into the garden where they are to grow.

For a constant supply of the herb, it is sensible to sow coriander seed in succession over a long period.  If you have any trouble with seeds germinating, check that the round outer case enclosing the seeds is cracked, or shed, so moisture can enter.

The leaves of the coriander plant can be harvested as soon as they are big enough to be useful, but when left to flower and seed, a plant can grow up to 2 ft tall.  Uproot any plants which are finished, because a plant left to mature will scatter seed all around it, and these seedlings can become a nuisance.

Seeds should be harvested when they have turned a grayish brown and feel dry.  They will also develop the distinctive coriander aroma, which only happens when the seeds are ripe.  Hang bunches of the seed heads loosely inside a paper bag, letting air circulate freely.  Leave the bunches in a dry, airy place for several days.  When the seeds feel dry, shake them out into the bags and sort them, choosing the best ones to pack into airtight storage containers.

Coriander is one of the most ancient and widely used herbs.  The plant is probably native to the eastern Mediterranean, along the shores of the Bosphorus and the Dardanelles.  It has been used for centuries as both a medicinal and culinary herb.  Today, the aromatic seeds are crushed or ground for use in both sweet and savory dishes.  The seeds are necessary ingredients in many Eastern spice mixtures; coriander is one of the most common herbs for sale in markets from the Middle East to the Far East.

In North and South America, coriander has been cultivated for thousands of years and is still the most popular herb for many regional dishes. In Europe, coriander has only begun to make a regular appearance in the last few years.

In most countries, just the leaves of the plant are used, but in India the stems flavor stocks and soups and in Thailand the roots are pounded into curry pastes. The raw leaf can be scattered over finished dishes, sauces or dips. However, its flavor is robust enough to use with other herbs and spices, and it withstands long cooking.

Coriander is lavishly used in Mexican, especially as a fresh, piquant salsa made from the chopped leaves, spices and seasonings. This salsa is usually eaten in small amounts as a relish with other foods. It may also be used like a dip for snacks.

Coriander is an intriguing herb because it is one of the few herbs used as a fresh leaf and as a dried seed. The green leaves look like a coarser version of flat-leafed parsley (it is also known as Chinese parsley) but coriander is recognizable by its lighter green color and distinctive smell and their flavor is unusual and distinctive. Once tried, many people become passionately fond of the herb.

Coriander leaves taste quite different from the seeds. The leaves are sharp and aromatic, with a freshness quite unlike any other herb. They are used to flavor vegetable dishes, with fish and meat, in chutneys and as a garnish.

The flavor of coriander seeds is warm and aromatic with a slight hint of orange in it. Traditionally, coriander seeds are used as spices in pickling. They always appear in the method of cooking called a la Greque, in which vegetables are cooked and marinated in a spiced vinegar sauce. They are excellent eaten with cold meats and game, and particularly with cold ham.

A tasty dressing for  fresh salad leaves, fish, or cold, sliced cooked meats.

Makes 1 cup.

• 2/3 cup white grape juice
• 6 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
• 1/4 cup sunflower oil
• 2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
• finely grated rind of 1 lime
• juice 2 limes
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• salt
• pepper

Put the grape juice, vinegar, oil, coriander, lime rind, lime juice, sugar, salt, and pepper into a bowl.

Beat the ingredients together until thoroughly mixed. Alternatively, put all ingredients in a clean jar. Screw the top on the jar and shake until all ingredients are thoroughly mixed together.

Adjust seasoning before serving.

Variation: In place of the lime rind and juice, use lemon or orange rind and a mixture of chopped fresh herbs, such as parsley, thyme, and basil.