Extending between Istria in the north and Dalmatia in the south is the wide Bay of Kvarner. This, the largest of Croatian bays, has thrust itself deeply between Istria and the rugged eastern shores, the entrance into it being closed by fi ve larger and several smaller islands. It is towards Kvarner that the major part of the natural entity of mountainous Croatia, running like a green belt between the coast and the fertile interior of the Pannonian Plain, is oriented. That is why this entire tourist region is known as Kvarner and the Highlands.

The tourist region of Kvarner and the Highlands comprises two counties: the County of Primorje-Gorski kotar and the County of Lika-Senj, which encompass both the littoral and the wide mountainous area and which makes this particular region the richest in natural sites. It is in this region that three (Plitvice Lakes, Northern Velebit and Risnjak) of a total of eight national parks are located, as well as the major part of by far the largest of all Croatia’s nature parks, Učka Nature Park; two reserves enjoying the strictest form of nature protection in Croatia (Bijele and Samarske stijene, and Hajdučki and Rožanski kukovi) and a whole range of other smaller, protected areas. The reasons for such wealth of natural heritage stem from the fact that the area of Kvarner and the Highlands lies upon one of the nodes of European eco-systems. It is here that the Mediterranean and Central Europe touch; where the Alps and the Dinaric Range meld; where Mediterranean and moderately continental climates mix. All of which makes the area contained within it filled with contrasts. The coastal part of Kvarner is characteristic for the diff erence between the rugged shores at the foot of Velebit and the cultivated shores at the deep end of the Bay of Kvarner. Kvarner’s islands are also partially green and mellow, and partly rock-bound and harsh. Th e two historical mountainous regions, Gorski kotar (mountainous district) and Lika are themselves quite special: Gorski kotar is more diverse in its relief, richer in water and densely forested, whereas Lika is wider, more monumental and untamed.

Travelling from Istria eastwards, on the way to Kvarner we fi rst come across the 1400 metre-high UČKA mountain. It is protected as a nature park because of its preserved landscapes, and its wealth of fl ora and fauna, resulting from the special climate here, where the Mediterranean climate becomes continental. Among the main attractions of Učka are the unique limestone formations in the area of Vrana, and at the very top of Učka, where rises an old tower next to which mountaineers like to be photographed. From the summit of the mountain there are unforgettable views towards the nearby islands and Opatija Riviera beneath the mountain, which owes its fresh evenings to the shelter aff orded by the lush forests of Učka. Učka’s peaks are frequently bathed in sunshine, while its slopes are often blanketed in fog, which creates a quite special atmosphere. Walkers and mountaineers visiting Učka in mid-summer can enjoy it in all its beauty, whether through the refreshing wooded parts or along the mountain’s wind-swept ridge. Also there for their enjoyment are numerous other features of interest, such as caves and chapels, which provide shelter in inclement weather. The most courageous of visitors like to take advantage of thefavourable air currents and use the top of Učka as a launch pad for paragliding. However, for all its beauties, Učka is but a foretaste of a whole range of the still greater attractions to be found in this, nature-wise, the richest tourist region in Croatia.

By a network of pathways visitors can get around and access numerous waterfalls and the rocky lake shores. The intense green colour of the lakes is also a magnet for curious tourists.The Plitvice Lakes are divided into the larger Upper Lakes, set amid wooded and gentler slopes, and the Lower Lakes, situated in a rugged and rocky canyon. Th e highest of the lakes is situated at an altitude of 637 metres, and the base of Sastavci, the lowest waterfall, beneath which the River Korana begins its course, at an altitude of 503 metres. This 134 metre-long long span is further divided into a myriad of greater and lesser waterfalls which endlessly change their appearance and height. Specially-built footpaths erected on wooden supports allow visitors to approach the waterfalls, while at the same time preserving the creator of the lakes, travertine, which is easily damaged by people walking over it. Travertine is a special type of soft, porous rock created from limestone deposits carried by the water and which, assisted by micro-organisms, deposit diluted limestone. The highest of the lakes is Prošćansko jezero, and the roar and rumble of waterfalls is absent here, while its distance from the main walking routes has ensured that its natural environment has been preserved in its virginal state. In contrast to Prošćansko jezero, immersed in its green surroundings, those of the canyon-type Lower lakes are characterized by white karstic rocks. In addition to enabling people to enjoy the pure beauty of nature, one role of each national park is to teach us fundamental natural values.

The second grand natural jewel of Kvarner and the Highlands is majestic VELEBIT, the largest and, for natural phenomena, the richest Croatian mountain. Protected as a nature park and extending to 2,000k m2 in area, it is by far the largest protected area in Croatia, larger than all the others put together. And within the nature park itself is a whole range of smaller protected areas, including two national parks: Northern Velebit in the Kvarner area, and Paklenice in Dalmatia. This mountain contains so many natural sites which rank among the most precious in Croatia, that the entire mountain, in its full length of about 150 km, has been placed under UNESCO protection as a World Biosphere Reserve, for the moment the only one of its kind in Croatia. Velebit is also signifi cant for its wealth of fl ora and fauna, as for the total number of species, so in the number of endemic species. Velebit has two faces: the harsh, forbidding and barren aspect facing the sea and the endless forests on its continental side. Among a vast range of breathtaking sights, those which stand apart are the various karstic formations, one being the bizarre figure of Stapina, avertical rounded obelisk some 100 metres high. The mountain is full of abysses and caves, wild canyons, rapids and, above all, unrepeatable, often forbidding vistas of wild and unbridled nature.The best times of the year for visiting Velebit are late spring, early summer and early autumn, when the hot sun does not beat down on its meadows and barren rocks and ridges. Needless to say, Velebit is equally fascinating in the winter, but a visit to its wind lashed, snow covered slopes is recommended only for the most experienced mountaineers. Nature lovers are drawn to Velebit by the abundance of the plant and animal worlds and for the preserved rural architecture in the few mountain villages and hamlets.

Th e most unique landscapes and the greatest wealth of fl ora and fauna are to be found in the area of the NORTHERN VELEBIT National Park. Located in the peak area of the northernmost part of the mountain, and extending over a mere 109 km2, are a number of exceptional features: the cone-like karstic formations known as Hajdučki kukovi and Rožanski kukovi, the botanical garden set in a natural environment, and the deep Lukina jama (Luka’s hole). And that is why Croatian mountaineers regard this area as the most precious jewel among all Croatia’s mountains. Hajdučki kukovi and Rožanski kukovi, an endless range of rocky peaks with diverse and bizarre forms up to 200 metres in height, are situated in the very centre of the national park. This amazing rocky landscape is protected as a strict regime reserve, the strictest form of nature protection in the country. And located amid Hajdučki kukovi, at an altitude of 1,475 metres, is Lukina jama. With its bottom being a mere 83 metres above sea level, its overall depth of 1,392 metres makes it the eighth deepest hole in the world.In addition to Hajdučki and Rožanski kukovi there are numerous other interesting karstic features, in particular sinkholes and abysses. Spread below the trail is the green umbrella of the tall coniferous trees of the primeval forest of Štirovača whose vast, impenetrable, Stygian darkness and isolation has given rise to any number of spooky legends in the surrounding villages. Northern Velebit also harbours many endemic plant species, the best known being Degenia Velebitica, practically the symbol of the mountain. Also to be found are rare animal species, such as the eagle owl. The main gathering place for excursionists, hikers and mountaineers visiting the Northern Velebit National Park is located beneath Zavižan peak, in the mountain lodge of the same name. It can be reached by a forest road from both the littoral and continental sides. Located in the immediate vicinity of Zavižan is Velebit Botanical Garden, its location on the edge of a deep karstic sinkhole making it unique in the world. At the bottom of that hole, where sunlight cannot reach, ice sometimes remains even in the middle of summer.

The third national park in the Kvarner and Highlands area is the RISNJAK forest-covered mountain massif. In contrast to Velebit, which is in Lika, Risnjak belongs to Gorski kotar, and is located not far from Rijeka, the largest port in Croatia. Its area covers 64 km2, and was named after its most popular inhabitant, the ris, that is, the lynx. Being located where the Alps meet the Dinaric Range, where the Mediterranean gradually gives way to the Pannonia Plain, it combines almost all the forest types of these areas, as well as containing numerous plant and animal species. Nature lovers come to Risnjak for the beauty of the mountains, forests, waters and karst. Th e most frequent visitors are mountaineers, who fi nd the highest peak of the massif a most rewarding challenge. Risnjak’s summit is equally attractive in all seasons: in winter, when covered with snow; in spring, when the meadows around it are transformed into carpets of flowers ; in summer, when it off ers respite from the heat in the nearby littoral area, and in autumn, when the trees are bathed in a myriad of colours. In addition to the trade mark of the mountain, the lynx, there are also brown bear, marten and dormouse. Risnjak is also famous for its fantastic views of the islands of the Kvarner Bay and of the mountains in neighbouring Slovenia, and all the way to the Alps. The first few kilometres of the 300 km-long course of the River Kupa towards the Pannonian Plains run within the boundaries of the national park. In its upper course the Kupa is a fast running, crystalclear river with numerous rapids, which makes it very popular with lovers of white water sports. The river’s powerful source, emanating from beneath a high cliff is one of the largest and most beautiful in Croatia. Some of the local houses are excellent examples of the architecture typical of Gorski kotar, with their steep wooden roofs designed to slough off snow during heavy falls.

In addition to three national parks and two nature parks, the Kvarner and the Highlands area hides many other beauties of nature. One such is the small, forested historical region of the previously mentioned Gorski kotar, within which lies Risnjak National Park and which is renowned for forbidding canyons, numerous caves, rapid-running, clear rivers and spirited waterfalls. The most popular attraction is Vražji prolaz (Devil’s Pass), near the town of Skrad, its name speaking volumes for its actual appearance. The highest peaks of Gorski kotar are not in Risnjak but at the southern edge of the region. There, centred around Bjelolasica, which is the highest peak, is a whole array of attractions: the stony, forested wildernesses of Bijele stijene and Samarske stijene, numerous old hill forts and many other interesting features. Although an altitude of 1,533 metres may not seem much, with the abundance of snow and the length of its duration through the winter months, the atmosphere here is that of the Alps. And this is why the best skiing terrains in Croatia are located on the slopes of Bjelolasica. In its foothills is the Croatian Olympic Centre.The most striking part of the mountain massif of Bjelolasica is the strict regime reserve of Bijele stijene and Samarske stijene. Similar in appearance to Rožanski kukovi and Hajdučki kukovi on Velebit, this is the second, but more forested, of the two strict regime reserves in Croatia. The main attraction of this reserve is a string of strange rocks which rise like white mountains from the “sea” of the surrounding forest. The reserve is also known for its preserved, dense forests and numerous endemic plant species, which are often seen growing in seemingly impossible places.