WITH MORE THAN 30 ethnic groups packed into a population count of a mere three million, Sabah's cultural landscape is as rich as its biodiversity. As with most indigenous communities, the native Sabah way of life is shrouded in mysticism and ancient superstitions, cultivated through generations of oral folklore. Inevitably, Sabah is at a crossroads of sorts, where it is seeing many age-old customs and beliefs giving way to the modernizing forces of white-collar careers and plasma TVs. Still, there is much for the culture buff to pick up, especially from the annals of the Kadazandusun (unification of the Kadazan and Dusun groups), Bajau and Murut tribes, the three largest ethnic groups in Sabah. To get a holistic understanding of Sabah's culture would take more than a visitor's stamp on your passport, but here are some ways for the casual traveler to experience a slice of life as a true Sabahan knows it.

One of the most intriguing legacies of Sabah's past remains its headhunters (not the kind who poach high-flyers) and here at the Monsopiad Cultural Village, named after the great warrior Monsopiad, was where it all started 300 years ago. Today, it is an interactive, multi-sensory showcase of Sabah's heritage. A stilted hut houses the main stage area, where various dance performances are held. While most of them revolve around gentle movements in harmony with nature, like the Kadazan tribe's famous sumokau dance, the Murut tribe's mogunotip dance is a nail-biting affair—dancers have to jump in and out of a few clapping bamboo sticks controlled at both ends by stationary performers, and anything less than an impeccable sense of rhythm will result in the dancer getting his or her foot clipped.

Another area shows traditional playthings and hunting tools for you to try—such as blowpipes, slingshots and rampanau (bamboo stilts) try walking on the romponou (bamboo stilts). Take a shot with the blowpipe, a primitive hunting weapon comprising a hollowed-out stick and a poison-tipped dart used by mainly the Murut hunters.

At the rice-processing section, milling machines are exhibited alongside giant jars. These earthen jars give new meaning to the label 'multi-purpose'—besides being used for storing rice and water, they are also used to keep spirits (to protect the family, farms or orchards) and sometimes even double up as urns.

The highlight of the cultural village, however, is the Siou do Mohoing (House of Skulls), where all 42 trophy skulls (some still bearing the stains of dried blood) collected by Monsopiad hangs from the ceiling. Look closer and you will notice an odd-looking bone—this is the thigh bone belonging to the gigantic warrior Gantang, put next to the skulls for comparison's sake. The rest of the house depicts various paraphernalia from the extensive customs of the revered bobohizon, the high priestess, doctor and medium of the Kadazandusun community who presides over every important ceremony such as the construction of a new house, moving of the whole village, warfare, head-hunting, planting of rice, and many more. The tradition of the bobohizan, however, is in danger of dying out as the current bobohizon, Gundohing Dousia (sixth direct descendant of Monsopiad) searches in vain for a successor.

Monsopiad was the name of a young boy who lived in a farming village named Kuai. As the grandson of the village headman, Monsopiad received special training and soon grew up to be an adept fighter. Now Kuai, being a peace-loving community, was an easy target for a gang of robbers who came to plunder and destroy the village every now and then. As Monsopiad came of age, the villagers begged him to put a stop to the atrocity, as he was the only warrior around. Thus, he embarked on a solo killing spree, and brought back the heads of his enemies to the joy of the village. Monsopiad quickly built up an impressive track record of 42 skulls and soon the village was rid of all enemies. Unfortunately, all the killing had gone to Monsopiad's head, and he started to provoke other men into fighting with him just so he could kill them. The villagers then realized that his bloodlust had to end, and one fateful night, a group of young men entered his house and slew the great him in his sleep. Still, the villagers treasured his memory, and renamed the village after him.

As the term implies, home stay means to stay at someone's home. If you have the luxury of time, this is a must-try experience as it gives you a total immersion into a native Sabahan's way of life. The great thing about a home stay is that it not only ensures the authenticity of your experience, but is also an avenue for the locals to supplement their meager income.

At the Melangkap Home stay located at Low's Gully near the foot of MountKinabalu, join your host for a crash course on self-subsistence as he shows you his farming grounds and brings you on hunting trips. Learn how to cut bamboo, how to prepare a meal and find out what the local 'nightlife' entails. Also, life is very much community-oriented, so don't be surprised if your host brings you to meet the village elder or mingle with the rest of the village.

If you want to rough it out more, check in to a Rungus longhouse home stay, where you can spend the night in a traditional longhouse entirely constructed from hewn wood, split bamboo and beaten bark. Even all the furnishings are traditional, from the lighting to the utensils used to serve food. You'll also get to join in their jungle-trekking, crab-catching, fishing and monkey-watching.

• Do use the greeting "kopivosian" when you meet somebody

• Always use your right hand to eat as well as to receive and give things if your host family is Muslim

• Don't wear skimpy clothing

• Always inform your host family of your whereabouts

• Don't consume alcohol in a Muslim community

• Do not walk under a house or a longhouse

• Always ask for permission before taking photographs

• Don't give tips or gifts as it can embarrass the receiver

Sabah's culinary offerings range from curious-sounding delicacies like fermented wild boar meat to cringe-inducing snacks like sago worms. Dating back to pre-refrigeration and modern packaging days, the dishes are mostly prepared using the age-old methods of fermenting and pickling. Not all of them are widely available, so those with adventurous plates should seek the help of a local tour guide.

Hinava - Probably Sabah's most famous dish, this Kadazan specialty is made from shredded, usually raw fish like mackerel that's soaked in a pungent mix of ginger, bitter gourd, shallots, chilli and lime juice. In fact, this dish has become so popular that it is now available at many restaurants in town.

Jaruk - A special Murut concoction made by stuffing raw wild boar meat and cooked rice into a broad bamboo tube, with both ends of the tube stuffed with leaves. It is then left to ferment for months before being served with rice or tapioca starch.

Butod - Live sago worms. Fat and wriggling with a rich, creamy, uhh.,.filling, the worms have been described as a rich, "delicious" source of protein. If you're planning to take part in the next Amazing Race, this is a good place to start.

Lihing - A sweet rice wine (alcohol content around 15 percent) made by fermenting steamed glutinous rice and dried yeast. Many taboos are observed throughout the whole preparation process, such as the prohibition of swearing or fighting, and even the handling of sour things like limes which might turn the wine sour. The wine is served as a drink during all major celebrations or rites of passages, such as birth, deaths or marriages.

The biggest, most important festival in Sabah revolves around the humble grain of rice. Held during the month of May to mark the end of the planting season when the entire paddy has been harvested, the pesto koamoton (harvest festival) is celebrated throughout the state. While the main objective of the festival is to give thanksgiving to the Bombaozon (Rice Spirit) for a bountiful harvest, it is also the time for joyous merry-making, filled with music, dancing and food. Presiding over the whole ceremony is, you guessed it, the bobohizonshe alone is responsible for invoking the presence of Bombaozon.

Of course, no festival is complete without some eye candy and one of the highlights of the festival is the crowning of the Unduk Ngodou (Harvest Beauty Queen) on the 31st of May. Typically, about 30 beauties between ages 18 to 25 will vie for the crown—but don't expect any bikini parade here. What the judges will be looking out for is the best representation of Huminodun, a legendary character of the Kadazandusun people who was believed to have been sacrificed to Earth by her father, Kinoingan, in order to feed her starving people. Thus, the criteria for the Unduk Ngodou include her command of her native tongue, knowledge of local customs, personality and of course, presentation.

Other festivals to catch are like the traditional musical instruments exhibition and the local fruits exhibition (both organized by MonsopiadCulturalVillage).

Log on to www.sabahtourism.com for more information, as well as for a complete list of local tour operators to help you get around.