Siena's seduction is subtle

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By Juan Carlos



A shot of Siena's Mangia tower from inside the town's hall.
A shot of Siena's Mangia tower from inside the town's hall.

In Tuscany, Siena quietly envelopes you in her shop-lined cobblestone streets, and entrances you with her medieval gems.

Be it by bus or train, arriving to Siena is misleading.

There are no throngs of tourists arriving or rushing to leave from her small train station or bus stop. No McDonald’s. No Benetton and no immediate glimpse of Siena’s attractions.

After arriving, you must ascend on foot or by bus to see what draws people to this Tuscan hill town. Be assured that it will be a pleasant climb and one you are not likely to forget.

Wander, get lost, and slowly make your way to Siena’s central square, Il Campo where everyone arrives at a leisurely pace. There is no hurry: No long list of sites. No mad rush to grab a glimpse of some famous art piece, though Siena boasts quite a few.

Visitors and residents both stroll in and out of the trattorias, gelaterias and pizzerias that encircle the shell-shaped square or just sit, picnic and talk in front of the Palazzo Publico. The medieval building houses the city government and the Museo Civico, the city museum. But no one is rushing in to see either; the entire scene is simply too fetching to take in on a tourist tear.

The biggest rush on this square is only during the semi annual Palio horseraces in July and August of every year, when Siena’s neighborhoods race horses and compete for bragging rights. Il Campo transforms into a racetrack.

When you’ve thoroughly enjoyed the central square, wander the streets and get the taste of Siena’s medieval allure. Don’t follow a map, Siena is meant for improvisation, but you should make your way to the Duomo eventually. It sits atop one of the city’s seven hills, and is one of the few gothic cathedrals south of the Alps.

Stunning and jaw dropping are poor adjectives to describe the intricate marble work and the human ingenuity that were aiming to make this church the largest church in Christendom in 1339. The black plague destroyed those plans, but you can still enjoy the astounding incomplete work. After you get past the sculpted marble exterior, head inside, which is just as ornate. You’re likely stay for hours.

And when you’re done, you’ll hardly realize that Siena has seduced you.

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