Although the “official” (for want of a better word) natural sites of Dalmatia are located in its northern area, it is in its central part, around the City of Split, where the true heart lies. This, the largest Dalmatian tourist region, encompasses what is also the country’s largest county, the County of Split-Dalmatia. The main Dalmatian islands are situated in its waters, as are several rivieras with lovely beaches, the imposing rugged mountains which rise practically right from the shores, while the broad hinterland contains a wide range of very precious natural heritage sites. And if, as many claim, Dalmatia is the true Mediterranean, then it is its central part, around Split, that is the heart of the whole of the Mediterranean.

The area around Split is the most densely populated and, culturally and historically, the richest in this part of Dalmatia. Understandably, there are no major areas which have remained in their original, natural state. There is just one nature park: Biokovo Mountain, and there are no national parks. However, this does not mean that Central Dalmatia holds no natural beauties or protected areas. Quite the contrary, for it is here that Hvar, one of the ten most beautiful islands in the world, is situated, and here, that on the island of Brač and along the Makarska Riviera, one can enjoy the most beautiful beaches of the Adriatic, where the magical River Cetina flows, where the unique lakes of Imotski are located, and the amazing Blue Cave on the island of Biševo, which competes with Capri for sheer beauty.

The most far-flung Adriatic islands of Jabuka and Palagruža also belong to this part of Dalmatia, as do many other smaller protected areas: special reserves, park-woods, natural monuments...Here, natural beauties are linked not only with its more remote islands and high mountains, but also with the greenery which its capital, Split, greets all those who visit. Regardless of the direction from which it is approached, whether via the highway leading from the hinterland, along the Adriatic Tourist Route from the coast, or by plane or boat, the fi rst feature to be noticed, right by the city centre, is green Mount Marjan . This wonderful embellishment of the city, its precious “green lungs”, has been celebrated in numerous songs. When the citizens of Split wish to fl ee the fl urry of urban life they escape to the green oasis of Marjan, walking, jogging along its paths, enjoying the vistas of their beloved city, or simply resting on the shores edged by the greenery of the mountain’s foothills .

Moving southwards down the coast from Split, we soon come upon its most beautiful and best-liked tourist destination, the Makarska Riviera . Natural, pebble beaches bordered on one side by crystal-clear blue seas and on the other by lush vegetation at the foot of the craggy heights of Mount Biokovo, attract countless tourists. Th is imposing mountain is by far the greatest sight of the Central Dalmatian coastline, and its only nature park. There are few places in the Mediterranean where peaks over 1,500 metres in height come so close to the sea, and where mountainsides rise so steeply and so high as they do here. And since the world of nature on Biokovo has been preserved in its virginal state, it is the belief of many that Biokovo should in fact be declared Croatia’s ninth national park. But it is the forbidding and inhospitable peaks of Biokovo that bestow upon the coast an ever so welcome freshness during the heat of summer, as well as proff ering a whole range of nature’s gifts to its true lovers. Apart from fresh air and the atmosphere of unsullied nature, Biokovo has beautiful hiking and cycling trails , pleasant rest places and interesting historical remains dating from the times when many shepherds roamed these diffi cult terrains. Today, the nature park, including its highest peak, 1,758 metre-high Sveti Jure, can be reached by road, either from the shores of the Makarska Riviera or from Dalmatinska Zagora’s hinterland. With a little luck, visitors to Biokovo can catch a sight of chamois , the trade mark of this mighty mountain, as well as other preserved animal species . All along the routes strange karstic forms are to be seen , deep karstic sinkholes and a number of other natural phenomena characteristic of a karst area. However, the most alluring aspect for those who come to Biokovo are the breathtaking views of the Makarska Riviera, with its lovely beaches and picturesque settlements .

Also, from Biokovo it is possible see all the large islands of Central Dalmatia, particularly Brač and Hvar , but the vistas also extend into the hinterland of rugged, forested Dalmatinska Zagora . And should we opt instead to move inland in search of more of nature’s gifts, there are many pleasant surprises awaiting us. One of the most beautiful prizes for diligent seekers of beauty is the magnifi cent Peručko jezero (Peruča Lake) at the foot of the peaks of Dinara . This man-made lake, so vitally important for the supply of water to the insatiably thirsty karstic areas of Dalmatia and her fertile fields , is fed by the waters of the River Cetina, Central Dalmatia’s main river. Its source, still in the form created by nature, attracts people with the freshness and verdacity of its clear waters , its banks and immediate vicinity frequently enriched with the works of man , like the church in the village of Cetina . The downstream course of the river abounds in rapids, making it extremely popular with the rafting fraternity .

But by far the most striking natural phenomena of the Dalmatian hinterland are the LAKES of IMOTSKI. Set amid harsh karst, as if drilled by some gigantic boring machine several huge, water-fi lled holes reach deep into the bowels of the earth. The most beautiful of these is Modro jezero (Blue Lake) , which is located practically in the town of Imotski. The lake, the bed of which is more than 200 metres from the half a kilometre-wide surface of the hole, and which was named after its unique blue colour, is a favourite bathing site for the people of Imotski. More unusual is Crveno jezero (Red Lake) , itself named after the surrounding red rock. Distance from the edge of the hole down to the lake surface is more than 200 metres, and a further 300 metres to the lake bed, making it the deepest lake in Croatia. In the Split region of Dalmatia, some are more attracted to the wildernesses of Biokovo and Dalmatinska Zagora, while others prefer the beaches of the Makarska Riviera, but most people opt for the islands. Lined along the front of the shores of Central Dalmatia, going south, are several smaller and larger islands, each of them a story unto itself, stories of the beauty of nature and the work of man over thousands of years. All the islands are well connected to Split by ferry and shipping lines, which is one of the reasons why Splitis one of the busiest passenger ports in the Mediterranean.

The largest of Dalmatian islands, Brač, is widely known for its lovely beaches and the harmony of the numerous bell towers in its towns and villages, while Hvar, second in size, is renowned for its lush vegetation, the intoxicating fragrance of lavender, and the exquisite charm of its settlements, in particular the towns of Starigrad and Hvar. The outlying sentinel of the centre of the Adriatic, the island of Vis, is no less beautiful with its preserved old way of life and the wealth of fi sh found in its waters. And then, there is Šolta, for the citizens of Split, their favourite summer resort, Čiovo, close to the historical city of Trogir, and a string of smaller islands, each of which is a world on its own. The best known holiday destination on the island of Brač is Bol, located at the foot of the highest peak of all the Adriatic islands: 780 metre-high Vidova gora . This mount is one of the favourite places for para gliders, as well as possessing one of the fi nest belvederes from which the most beautiful beach along our shores, Zlatni rat, can be seen as if in the palm of one’s hand, surrounded by the lush greenery of evergreen Mediterranean woods, and protected as an outstanding landscape. The special feature of this peninsula-shaped beach, composed of fine, round pebbles, is that it tends to shift depending on the direction of winds and waves. Around Bol there are other beautiful beaches, while in the island’s mountainous area is Pustinja Blaca , renowned for its unique museum collection and its mystic, contemplative atmosphere.

South of Brač lies Hvar, the island which the American magazine Traveller declared one of the ten most beautiful islands in the world, alongside Bora Bora, Bali, Mykonos, Capri... The unique feature of this hilly island with many wonderful natural beaches is the green of its woods and the colours and fragrances of its meadows covered with a variety of medicinal plants, the best known being lavender, the symbol of the island . Hvar has also succeeded in preserving some very special olive trees and cypresses which grow next to the Franciscan monastery in the town of Hvar. In addition to Hvar, there are many other picturesque settlements, such as Stari Grad, Jelsa and Vrboska, nestled in a deep bay .

More distant yet from Hvar, virtually in the open sea, lies the wonderful island of VIS, with its adjoining isles, right in the middle of the Adriatic. In the two main island settlements, Vis and Komiža , it is hard to decide which is more special and more beautiful; whether it is the ancient architecture and the natural beaches fronting them , or indeed the underwater world around them . Those who opt to spend a little more time travelling and visit this distant island will surely be captivated by the picturesque settlements in the interior, from where views of the open seas are breathtaking . Dotted around Vis are several smaller islands, among them Biševo, with its magnifi cent Modra spilja (Blue Cave) particularly worthy of attention, famous for the enchanting play of light and colour in its interior and, according to many, even more captivating than the similar but better known cave on the island of Capri, near Naples. Located farthest out in the open sea are the lonely isles of Sveti Andrija, Jabuka, Brusnik and Palagruža.