Dermalogica Shave – Using Dermalogica pre shaving and post shaving products for male skin types

If you've ever had a red face after shaving you'll know how irritating it can make your skin feel. In fact irritation and redness are just a few of the signs that the trauma of shaving has on male skin.

Like any solution, what you put on your face before shaving has to be matched to your specific skin condition. Furthermore, these products should also factor in beard growth needs. Shaving products containing the correct ingredients will ensure that the optimum results are achieved, resulting in an irritation free shave.

In simple terms, shaving is a mechanical form of exfoliation. This exfoliation can often be severe and compromise the skins lipid barrier, resulting in moisture loss and ultimately dry cracked skin. Dryness in the skin can increase the likelihood of ingrown hairs and razor bump, razor burn and sensitivity.

What causes ingrown hairs and razor burn?

When a hair is cut, the hair can grow back at an incorrect angle. Cutting the hair at the end of its shaft can force the hair back into the follicle. In some cases the hair can even double over itself and re-enter the same follicle, growing inwardly and penetrating inwardly as opposed to outwardly and exiting at the surface.

Of course this causes the follicle to become inflamed and the hair (like a splinter) can become infected.

How can you avoid ingrown hairs?

Prior to shaving you should exfoliate with a product containing rice or micro fine silica beads. Also containing lactic and salicylic acid, the substance should prepare the skins surface, lifting hairs, moisturising and removing dead skin cells. Products containing retinol are also effective in removing dead skin cells from the surface. Essential ingredients for clearing pores and purifying the skin are tea tree and eucalyptus oils.

The debris and dead cells that collect on the skins surface can actually prevent the razor from touching the skin. It doesn't take a genius to work out that this doesn't equate to a close shave. It can cause the razor to tug at the skin and ultimately lead to ingrowing hairs, razor burn and skin sensitivity.

By exfoliating the skin oil and oil based products are removed from the skin and the razor is allowed to come into close contact, maximising cutting of the hair shaft. Removing this debris can also minimise pore clogging and trapped hairs.

Razor Burn is often a result of an incorrect shaving technique. If the skin is shaved too quickly and closely, or the blade is blunt, burn will occur. Infrequent rinsing will also cause a build up on the blade, and cause irritation. Keeping the blade sufficiently lubricated will reduce the likelihood of burn when shaving irritated areas or against the grain. If razor burn is a regular occurrence, it can cause premature aging of the skin.

Using a product containing wheat germ, extracts of yeasts and silicones will help to protect the skins natural barrier. These ingredients will also help to combat irritation and reddening associated with razor burn. Aloe vera is also effective at calming the skin and promoting repair.

Shaving thicker beards can be a challenge.

Frequent rinsing (and a sharp blade) is essential in order to minimise discomfort. A blunt razor can cause tugging and scraping, and those those with heavier beards are likely to suffer from itching, stinging, redness and cuts.

Softening and lifting the beard is essential if discomfort is to be avoided. The skin must also be protected with a product that achieves this, but at the same time causing minimum irritation to the skin. Many products designed to do this are high in alkali, so although they soften the beard these additives can cause drying and tightness in the skin.

Suitable shaving products that avoid this will contain camphor, which is a natural antiseptic. Clove flower oil can also gently open the pores while softening the beard, helping to lubricate the razor and prevent any tugging of the facial hair. Glycerine and Sodium Hyaluonate will also add extra lubrication to the shave experience. Both wheat germ and yeast extract help to reduce redness and irritation.

The use of the correct shaving products alone is not always enough to achieve the perfect shave. The technique employed is also a significant factor. Shaving in the direction of growth can often present a challenge, as hair can grow in several different directions. The neck, for instance can grow totally different to the hair on the face.

Because of this uniqueness it is essential to take time and patience to note the direction of hair growth. Often it is recommended that beard growth be allowed to progress for a few days in order to determine the correct pattern. With heavy coarse beards it is ok to shave against the grain, but only after shaving with the grain. It is permissible to do this because if the hair is shorter, it is less likely to curl back on itself. Before going back against the grain, it is a good idea to make sure that there is ample shaving product still evident on the skin to ensure maximum lubrication.

Using too much pressure on the razor will cause nicks, irritation and other problems. Keeping a light pressure with a sharp razor is the correct technique. Using too much pressure won't give you a closer shave; all it will do is remove skin cells, giving way to irritation. A steady constant motion is necessary, along with strokes 1-2 inches long.

Shaving the head

Whilst a little trickier, the same rules apply for shaving the head as they do for the neck. Especially paying attention to the direction of the grain. Applying a pre shaving product as well as a post shave product can really improve the quality of the result. Because of its' exposure, the head is an area where some SPF protection is necessary.

Any high quality shaving system will offer the choice of a shave cream or shave gel. If the skin has suffered in the past and remedial action is necessary, it makes good sense to choose a product that will maintain skin health. For individuals who are looking to improve their skin, it is often necessary to do more than just shave.

The Dermalogica shave system allows skin care professionals to outline trained professionals to recommend a 3 stage programme that covers all aspects of a daily regimen. Products are optimised for the pre shave, shave and post shave process.

Stage 1 - Pre Shave

The purpose of the pre shave is to cleanse the skin, soften the beard. Minimising irritation, ingrown hairs and to prevent nicks and cuts. Removal of bacteria, surface oil and debris prepare the skin and avoid any factors that would hamper the effectiveness of the shave. The pre shave routine also softens the beard, whilst giving additional protection from the razor.

Stage 2 - Shave

Any shave gel, water soluble oil, or shave cream should be formulated to protect the skins natural moisture barrier. The products must help to soften and lift the beard and protect the skin from the blade without compromising closeness.

Stage 3 - Post Shave

Cooling and soothing is the role of post shave products. Maximum protection against dryness is essential at this stage. Keeping redness to a minimum and providing some UV protection are all functions of any quality shaving product.

Minimising skin reaction through the correct technique and carefully designed products can significantly reduce the majority of skin reaction associated with shaving. Furthermore, the skin condition will become healthier and future concerns will be minimised.