Deserted Islands and Coconut Palms

Laying somewhat insecurely in a Mayan hammock under a Coconut palm tree, I mulled over the situation. We thought we were spending a week at a resort for the "not so rich and famous," only to find ourselves on a fairly deserted postage-stamp-sized island, staying in a wooden shack.

Now, I don't mind primitive camping out, but when I book at a "resort" that online shows a beautiful plantation style bed and breakfast, and end up in a tool shed turned "cabin" -- sans electricity, unless you count the ceiling fan/light fixture that's on an hour timer -- I was a little steamed that I had not investigated the place further.

I also don't mind sharing a communal rainwater bath, but when the only water is cold, and it runs at a trickle or not at all -- that's not what I had in mind. I'm not further enamoured, when two minutes later, the trickle becomes vapor. No point in talking to the owners, they are in New York, and there is no phone, only a CB radio to reach the mainland that only sometimes works. LOL

No window pane in the window, so lots of fresh air. No lock on the door, unless you counted the shed type padlock. Meals were twice a day, cooked by two Garinagu women outdoors on a wood stove, who spend the day arguing with each other. The concept of a cold drink, not available.

The captain of the so-called boat, that had deposited us on shore was speeding his way back to the mainland. Any thoughts of returning with him, after our near drowning ride over to the island, were as remote as the island. In fact, the dread of a return trip with a drunken one-eyed Captain in a rickety wooden boat powered by a outboard motor, made my stomach as queasy as the swinging hammock.

Starring up at the coconut palms on each end of my hammock, remembrances of reading Daniel Defoe’s Robinson Crusoe and Tim Severin’s Seeking Robinson Crusoe, came to mind. Before the week on that island was over, the boredom felt by Tom Hank's character in Castaway, would have aptly applied to us too.

I had a specific reason for traveling to Tobacco Caye. I had heard stories of a group of Acadians who somehow had been stranded briefly on that island, enroute to New Orleans in 1764. I wanted to see the place for myself, to try to understand under what conditions they might have found themselves.

Talking to myself, leaning toward my more Pollyanna side, I'm trying to think of all the fun ways we can turn this disaster of a travel booking, into a relaxing vacation. We'll snorkel. We'll get tans. I'll read the book I brought along, out loud to my husband. Maybe we can fish?

Three hot and humid days later, with warm refreshments only available twice a day, and enough sleep to last us for a life-time -- I was bribing the Garfunia cook to get on that CB radio to raise the one-eyed Captain to come get us. I no longer cared we might capsize, with no life jackets on board his homemade boat.

It's amazing what a little boredom can inspire. The next morning after our arrival, I awoke to the sound of someone pounding or hammering on something outside, down below our window.

Looking out at our lovely window view, there was the eleven year old Garfunia cook's son, pounding away at a wheel barrel full of coconuts. He looked about as happy with that job, as most boys would be with their lawn mowing chores. Still, from my mom's perspective, there's a lot to be said for boys (and men) pounding on things. They do excel at this task.

At the communual breakfast, which by now included a half dozen American medical students on a study break, the coconut pounding suddenly made sense. The first course of this meal was "coconut fry jacks." Next to the cook's delicious fish dinners, this was the highlight of each day we spent there.

The young medical students were a revelation in themselves, as prior to that we were not aware that American students often come to Belize for a less costly education, and finish up in the states. The standards are lower there for getting into med schools, and the prices were more affordable. They came to the island to cram for an upcoming exam. No distractions in Tobacco Caye.

Other than tourists who arrived and immediately returned without unpacking, they were our only company. So, lots of time to study the only things that were in abundance -- coconuts. We tried climbing them, and concluded that was for the much younger, more agile of the human race. We tried opening them with a loaned machete, without success. However, I am happy to report we were successful in not maiming ourselves.

Snorkeling was a very iffy thing. I personally passed on it, as the water wasn't the cleanest, and being able to shower afterwards was an impossibility given the rain barrel gravity fed trickle of a shower. My husband tried it, but when he got out and could'nt get a shower -- that was the end of the snorkeling plans.

The coconut palm is a widely cultivated palm throughout the tropical climates of the world. It's common in Africa, tropical America (although not native), Asia, and the South Pacific Islands. The palms are usually found near the seashore, but thanks to mankind they are also found some distance inland wherever the climate is favorable.

Coconuts and coconut sap are available year round with this palm. In terms of edibility, few plants in the wild offer more food source. First, the nuts can be prepared in many ways. Most of us are familiar with the soft white meat of green or "spoon nuts." This is the form of coconut meat that we often buy in our grocery stores today. The way to tell if a coconut is good eating, is if the nut is green and is so completely filled with coconut milk that it does not rattle when shaken.

It is more nourishing and digestible than the harder meat of ripe nuts. The meat of fully ripe nuts though, can also be eaten fresh, grated, and dried. Of course, coconut milk, which is hugely popular throughout many Hispanic cultures, can be squeeze out of a coconut, for food, cooking, and drinking.

Old coconuts sprouting beneath a coconut palm, contain a spongy center that can be eaten raw, but are more tasty and nourishing when cooked. This sprouted nuts should be husked. Then baked for two hours in a rock oven. A large number of such coconuts can be cooked at one time. They will keep unopened for three to four days. They are not only very nourishing, but are easy to get. So, don't pass up sprouted coconuts that are a lot easier to find and safer to get than the ones found up in the tree.

Don't forget about both coconut oil, coconut hearts, and coconut growing points of both young and full grown coconut trees. The coconuts hearts and growing points, can be cut out with a machete and eaten raw or cooked. Peel off the outside layers until the tender growth is reached. The coconut oil is what separates from the milk upon standing for awhile, it can be used for other cooking.

To open the husked nuts, strike the three longitudinal ribs successively with a knife handle, or rock. Usually, the coconut casing will split cleaning into equal halves.

In an emergency survival situation, please know that opening a coconut without a machete takes a certain "know-how." It is not an easy task. The husk will eventually split off, if the pointed end of the nut is repeatedly struck on a hard object, such as a rock. However, it is much easier to use a hard, sharpened "husking stick" firmly anchored in the ground.

To make such a husking stick, take a hardwood stick about three feet long and at least one inch in diameter. The coconut should be held by both ends, then thrust down on the pointed stick. Take careful aim so as to not puncture the inside shell or maim yourself. A backward twist of the wrist will pry off a section of the husk. This action is then repeated, until the coconut within comes free of the husk.

This ethnic group of 400,000 mixed ancestry, are unique to Central America, but not limited to it. Besides populations in Belize, they are also in:

• Guatemala
• Nicaragua
• Honduras
• Island of Roatin
• Los Angeles
• Miami
• New York
• Trinidad
• Dominica
• St. Vincent
• The Grenadines

They speak a language called “Garifuna” which is an Arawkan language, that originates from both Arawak and Carib. However, it has strong influences from English, French, and Spanish. Within this language there is a difference between words and terms only used by men, and those only allowed to be used by the women. It’s believed that the men’s vocabulary comes from the Carib, and the vocabulary of the women comes from Arawak. 

Additionally, most Garinagu (plural of Garifuna) also speak some English, Spanish, or Creole.

Most tourists think of Belize as prime diving and snorkeling sites, or places some cruise lines stop at. Belize is a beautiful country with a lot of treasures, including some of it's indigenous peoples, Mayan ruins, rain forests, very untouristy beaches and preserves.

In the three weeks we were there, outside of Tobacco Caye, we also visited:

• Belize City
• Placencia
• Blue Hole
• Caye Caulker
• Caye Amergris
• Dangriga
• Punta Gorda

There are a few things to share about Belize. First of all, it isn't a tourist spot for the timid, or the naive. The country is not one of the safest places to go to or travel around. It's not for everyone. All of this is my personal opinion, but as someone who has traveled considerably -- it is not a place for:

• Young children (due to illnesses or safety hazards, and lack of medical care)
• Elderly or anyone with health issues
• Young women traveling alone

Traveling from place to place within the country, is not generally done by road. Many and most roads are dirt. Travel is mostly accomplished by puddle jumping small planes, with pilots who generally very young and risk takers. There is bus transportation, and you will often see young backpackers in the country.

However, the buses are crowded and sometimes very intimidating when you are the only ones on them with gangs of young men who are watching you and moving in closer as the bus empties. When they all got off the bus with you, it was very obvious this wasn't their intended stop. We were grateful the owner of the resort was outside to greet us with his workmen.

Gang activity, especially in Belize City, is very real. You arrive at an airport with armed soldiers and sand bags. Your luggage will be riffled through and left for you to put back together on the floor. The airport bathroom is only to be used by the brave or desperate.

The "tourist police" are armed young soldiers in the back of pickup trucks who follow you from your hotel, as you walk the tourist places on the streets. It's not recommended to leave your hotel after dark.

You will be panhandled. My husband made the mistake of giving some change to an elderly woman. He soon found himself surrounded and followed all the way back to the hotel by about fifteen people.

There are problems with the taxi's and the safety of getting in certain ones.

Electricity, even in Belize City, is iffy at times. Even well branded hotel chain rooms, will cut the electricity, especially in the middle of the night.

Note: One thing that might surprise people -- many Amish and Mennonite have farms in Belize.

Trips to the Mayan villages and rain forests were not to be forgotten. This alone made the trip to Belize worthwhile. We were in one Jaguar Preserve that was a delightful day -- spent in a jungle with guides.  We had sightings of not only a jaguar, but also many exotic birds, and howling curious monkeys everywhere.

Aside from the mosquito population that apparently had never heard of Deet, this was the most enjoyable part of our whole vacation. Mayan guides gave every interesting talks on many of their traditional healing herbs and plants.