Digital Camera Repair: Top 4 Problems List
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I recently wrote a brief article about the basics of digital camera
repair, and received a nice comment on the post from a reader who also
asked if I could write something more in-depth... and here we are!
But why is this a top 4 list and not a top 10 list like everybody loves
so much? Answer: Because I am trying to give usable, honest information
here about a subject that I actually know about. If this were a top 10
list there is no way I could give you any useable information, there
wouldn't be enough time. Many people probably won't read my "book"
below for that reason, it's too long. Que sera, sera.
We live
in a throw-away society, it's a simple fact. You buy that brand new
fancy digital camera with all the bells and whistles for $400, and in 6
months to 1 year it's worth maybe half that, and then the unthinkable
happens: you drop it and it breaks. The LCD is cracked, or the lens is
jammed; what do you do? You head back to the store with your poor
little camera and the guy behind the counter (that knows nothing about
cameras except for what's written on the box, and even less about
camera repair) tells you it's not worth it to fix it and you should
toss it in the trash. You feel ripped off and mad at the camera
manufacturer and you toss it out and buy a new one made by somebody
else.
There are alternatives, there are ALWAYS alternatives to
every problem. Honest! Yes, it may cost $100 to fix your camera, and
yes you can buy that camera in the bubble pack on the shelf at W**l
M**t (they don't pay my bills... I don't advertise their name, sorry)
for less than $100, but what kind of quality do you honestly expect
from a $100 camera? Not very good quality I hope, because you're not
going to get it.
Ok, get on with the list, right?
#1 - Broken/cracked LCD screen.
It was hard for me to choose what to put in #1 and #2, but I stuck with
the broken digital camera LCD screen for #1 because it's so easy to break your LCD that you don't even
have to touch the camera to do it!
The LCD (Liquid Crystal
Display) is the view screen on the back of the camera that lets you see
menus, playback pictures etc. The LCD is very thin, very fragile, and
on many many cameras completely UNPROTECTED! Look at the back of your
camera, is the screen recessed slightly or is the back of the camera
flat and smooth? If it's flat you have a protective 'window' or 'glass'
over the LCD to help prevent damage and breakage. If it's not flat, you
have nothing protecting your LCD and should put a good quality LCD
screen protector on the camera and NOT those thin, flimsy 'saran wrap'
plastic film screen protectors, they are worthless.
- Don't leave your camera in your car in summer or winter. Extreme heat
can cause expansion of the liquid in the LCD and cause it to 'crack',
and on the other side of things extreme cold can cause it to freeze!
- Don't put anything up against the LCD in your camera bag, it will
bang against the LCD and crack it (yes, even if it has a window over
it, it will break!)
- Don't put your camera in your back pocket and then sit down!
- Don't put your camera in your front pocket and then roll over on it.
- ... Just don't put your camera in your pants pocket please. =)
Ok, so it's broken, what do you do now?
- The manufacturer will just site impact damage and will refuse the
repair even if the camera wasn't dropped etc. You can try, and I wish
you luck, but they probably won't fix it.
- Look for a defective
camera on e***y (hey they don't pay me to advertise for them...) and
make one good camera from the two if you are handy.
- Look for an
actual camera repair business and not somebody that will send it to the
manufacturer and tell you it's $200 and 4-6 weeks to repair. (IF they
tell you this, they are NOT repairing your camera for you, they are
sending it to the manufacturer, guaranteed)
Many LCD screens
are very easy to install and you can do it yourself and all you need is
a small screwdriver. Other LCD's are very difficult to install, and
even professionals don't like to do them! I can't tell you Brand ....
is the best and Brand ... is the worst, it's really not like that.
Certain SERIES of cameras have 1 or 2 models that are difficult to work
on, yet the rest of them are fairly straight forward. You need to
decide for yourself if you want to open your camera and try the repair
yourself or not.
How is an LCD replaced?
With most Canon digital camera LCD screens
for example (using them as the example because they have the largest
market share) all you do is disconnect the ribbon cable for the LCD and
the backlight (the light that shines through the LCD and allows you to
see what is on the screen) and then install the new LCD. Some come with
the backlight attached, some do not. Some backlights need to be
soldered to the mainboard of the camera, some do not.
- Be careful
to not touch the flash capacitor contacts! You WILL zap yourself if you
do, and it will HURT a bit. You will probably throw your camera across
the room when it happens. (Yeah, I've done it, I've been repairing
cameras for 5 years now so....) We have 'flash capacitor dischargers'
and use them every time we open a camera.
#2 - Lens Error; Broken, Jammed, Stuck, Missing or Black Spots on Images
Ok, digital camera lens repair
is as common as LCD repair, but it's #2 on my list because it's harder
to repair and there are so many different types of lens problems
whereas a broken LCD is a broken LCD no matter how you look at it.
- Do not leave the batteries in your camera in the camera bag. The
power button can be pressed accidentally causing the lens to extend and
get jammed because it cannot open properly inside the bag.
- Try not to drop the camera with the lens extended.
- Don't ever pull or twist on a lens that is not working 100% properly, you will just break it.
I would have to write a book to fully explain lens problems fully
(hmm.. maybe a good idea!) so I will try and keep it simple and
informative.
The lens is made up of many different parts... Let's start with the several pieces of glass referred to as the lens elements.
The outer lens element is prone to being scratched and scuffed, and
usually has a special coating on it that you DO NOT want to clean off
with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol), or Windex or something
similar. It's not the end of the world, and don't worry about it if
it's missing. Just keep the lens clean (why are there fingerprints on
your lens anyway??) and scratch free.
The inner-most lens element
is responsible for the fine focus and resides directly in front of the
CCD. When you press the shutter button half way down to focus, this
part moves forwards and backwards till it's in the correct position and
your image is in focus. You won't be messing with this part of the
lens... unless you feel like removing the lens from the camera and then
tearing down the lens to get at it's 'guts'. It's kinda fun the first
time, but uh... I wish you luck getting it back together properly. The
tearing apart stuff is fun, the putting it back together is a drag!
The lens has two small motors with their own gears that connect to the
two main parts of the lens. The larger motor drives the lens barrel in
and out when zooming. The smaller motor drives the fine focus element
mentioned above and controls the focus. If you get ONE GRAIN of sand in
these gears, they will jam and the lens will "error out" as we like to
say. Open it up and clean it out if you like, but it's not easy.
Typically the main motor of the lens has 5-6 different gears that must
be set and aligned properly to function. But hey, your lens is already
jammed, why not see how it works, right?
Then there is the
CCD, "charge-coupled device" which translates the light that enters the
lens into a digital signal that the camera can record.
There was
a very large CCD recall by Sony over the past few years that covers
many manufacturers and not just Sony, as Sony provided the CCDs to many
others for their cameras. The defective CCD's cause the camera to take
solid black photos, or purple/pink "dripping paint" photos, or they
have repeating white horizontal or verticle lines on the images. If
your camera does this, call the manufacturer and tell them you want a
repair under the CCD recall no matter how old your camera is! IF it's
on the list, you might get your camera repaired for free.
Got
spots on your images that get bigger and smaller as you zoom in and
out? Most likely there is a spec of dust on your CCD. You will need to
remove the lens and then remove the CCD from the back of the lens and
clean it off. Don't lose the gasket that goes around the CCD, don't get
any other dirt inside the lens and don't leave any fingerprints! Tall
order I know, sorry, I'm demanding. =)
Let's see... what else?
Your lens is part way out, stuck at an angle becuase the camera was
dropped while turned on. Now please read that carefully; the lens must
be stuck part way out or all the way out, and one section of the lens
MUST be stuck at an angle. The lens must not move freely at all for
this section to apply, and you may follow this advice AT YOUR OWN RISK.
The following repair trick works, but I am not repsonsible for your
actions or anything you do to your camera.
Ok, it's stuck at
an angle. Hold the camera with the angled part of the lens resting
against the edge of a table, and the rest of the camera hanging over
the side. Do not place the camera facing down with the "Canon Zoom
Lens..." chrome ring section flat on the table. The rounded edge of the
lens must be what makes contact here. Now... here is the tricky part...
press the angled part of the lens back into alignment by pushing down
on the lens on the edge of the table. Put your fingers on the LENS
below the angled part to support it and press firmly but still gently
(how do I do that? I don't know.. you just do it) and the lens will
either POP!! back into place and work perfectly or it won't budge and
no harm will be done, -OR- one of the "guide pins" that run inside a
small track in the lens barrel will break off and you have just
destroyed the lens.
I told you it was at your own risk!! Camera repair is fun... right?
Ok, how are we feeling about lenses? I think we have covered most of the basic problems, shall we move on?
#3 Broken Doors, Busted Tabs and Frustrating Design
So your battery door broke off and is gone.
Your battery door has broken tabs on it and no longer holds closed
tightly so the batteries don't make contact and the camera won't turn
on.
Your battery door is removeable on your SLR so you can add on
a grip with extra batteries... and where exactly did you put it down?
The tiny little piece of plastic on your CF (Compact Flash memory card) door broke off and your camera won't turn on!
Oh man... how many cameras out there will not turn on because your
memory card door is open, or the battery door is open, even though
there really seems to be no reason for it? It's frustrating... these
flimsy little battery doors made from a tiny glob of plastic are ultra
thin and snap like a dry twig, (Canon Powershot SD750 battery door..
don't get me started!) making your camera useless. What were they
thinking when they designed this?? Did ANYBODY test this thing? Did
anybody stop for one second and ask what the reason was behind it?
I could work for ANY major digital camera company and tell them exactly
what is wrong with the design of any new camera they release and save
them hundreds of thousands of dollars in warranty repairs and upset
customers! Think they would hire me? No way; I don't have an
Engineering Degree or a PHd is Physics so what do I know, right?
Well I know plenty having fixed THOUSANDS of cameras over the past 5+
years, I know what is wrong with your camera if it is a certain model
before you even tell me.
Sony H2 or H5? Broken shutter button.
Canon SD850? Jammed lens Canon SD750? Broken battery door... I'm not
going to list dozens of cameras here, that's not what this is about.
What do you do with your camera when one small piece of plastic is
broken or missing? You paid hundreds for it and once again the guy at
the store tells you "Throw it in the trash, this one is better, it goes
to 11." (A little movie humor there, hey it's 1:30am I'm entitled) Tell
that guy at the store a resounding "NO!" and walk out. Go home, get on
the computer and get surfing.
Back we go to e**y... search for your model number and "door" or "parts" and voila, look at what you find!
---> As a side note here (I'm kinda proud of this so bear with me) I
was the first and only digital camera parts store in the world on e**y.
I bought cameras by the 100's and repaired what I could and then parted
out the rest. I sold all those annoying little parts that you cannot buy anywhere
for dirt cheap! $10 for a battery door and all you do to install it is
twist it into place... and that "geek" at the store told you it would
be $175 to send it in to Canon or Sony and have them do it for you...
So you don't find your door or part there, keep looking, don't give up
yet. Don't want to repair it yourself, no problem, there are places
that will do it for you. Hopefully you will find one with decent
prices; don't pay anyone $50 to install a battery door for you...
please.
(Google: affordable digital camera repair... I hold 7 out of the 10 listings on Google page one!! But enough about me...)
Broken battery doors and memory card doors are very common. I think we
would see a lot more customers asking for them if only they knew they
could actually repair it and get their camera back working for less
than $25-30! It really is that cheap, with many doors for only $15-20.
#4 No Power, My Camera Died!
- I don't know what happened, it just stopped working and won't turn on.
- I dropped it, (I dropped it in water) and it won't turn on.
- My kids... (well, you know how that one ends)
Ok, so it won't power; doesn't mean it's a complete loss. If the camera
blew the fuse then you can solder on a new fuse, you can remove the old
fuse and bridge the connection leaving the camera without a fuse (not
recommended) or you can replace the entire board that the fuse is on.
Fuses are normally just a few dollars, and if you can solder really
well, you can probably replace it. Can't solder? Don't bother.
Replacing the board isn't hard, but getting the board for a decent
price is unless you go used and you never know what you're getting with
a used board or lens, but it's better than nothing.
Exposure
to liquid is a camera killer. I hate to say it, but if this is the
issue with your camera, I would have to tell you that the camera is a
goner. I want to help you repair it, but corrosion is bad, real bad.
Water gets everywhere and causes damage to everything. It clouds up the
backlight so your LCD screen has weird shadows on it, it fogs up the
lens so you can't take pictures, it shorts out boards and flashes and
is basically the nemesis of all things digital camera. Please do not
get your camera wet. Thanks.
Argh! What did my kids do this
time? The camera won't work anymore, what's wrong with it? Could be our
friend the fuse again as above, or could be a "door indicator switch"
that tells the camera to turn off when the door is opened. If the
switch is damaged the camera will not turn on even when the door is
closed.
You can check this by opening your battery door or
memory card door and looking for the switch, it's not hard to see. On
Canon Powershot SD series cameras there is one under the battery door
beside the memory card slot. See it? Is it broken, jammed up, or totaly
broken off? You can try "tricking" the camera into thinking the door is
always closed by jamming down the switch, or bridging the connection
with a drop of solder. If the camera is under warranty do not do this,
try getting them to fix it... though they proabaly will not, and will
just fall back on the old "physical damage" thing again. Can't fix the
switch, have to replace the board, only real solution to the problem.
It's not corrosion, it's not the door switch, and it still won't turn
on; so what's wrong? Honestly, it's difficult to say without $100,000
equipment that I just don't have. The lens can be defective for
whatever reason and causing the camera to short out. There are certain
models where a bad LCD will cause the camera to not power. Could be the
flash, could be a screw touching the PCB or the frame inside the camera
and is causing it to short... Electricity is weird and does weird
things.
Right about now you are probably wondering if this
book will ever come to an end. No, it won't, because there are so many
different things that can and do go wrong with digital camera repair
that there really isn't a way to list them all. Will my post ever end?
Yes, it will thankfully enough.
I do hope that I have been able to shed some light on the mysterious
subject of digital camera repair, and if I have helped you to fix your
camera I would love to hear about it! I enjoy this business because I
know how important a camera is to a person; you want to be able to
record the events of your life and they only happen once. Once that
time has come and gone you cannot get it back, but with a photograph
you can be transported back to that place and time any time you choose.
If I can help you with that... to be a small part of so many peoples
lives in such an important way is an amazing thing and gives me a "warm
fuzzy".
As always I thank you, dear reader, for your time and for allowing me to be part of your life.
Thomas Drayton,
Owner, Darntoothysam
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Comments
Thanks Jon, this is what I do for a living so I like to try and get useful information out to people as much as I can.
The Fuji S5800 is a great 'bridge' camera; not quite SLR quality but also not SLR price and size either. If you take care of it you will get good use from it for a long time.
Thomas
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Jon Green says:
3 months ago
Really great article Thomas, very comprehensive and interesting.I have a Pentax KX (the manual is in Latin)and now a Fuji Finepix S5800 which I don't expect to last as long!
Cheers, Jon Green