Dill (Anethum graveolens) was well known to the ancient world. There is evidence that the Egyptians used it for healing. This delicate and delicious herb from the umbelliferae family obtains its name from "dillian," meaning "to lull" in the ancient Saxon language, a reference to the dill water from its seeds, which is still given to babies as a mild sedative. Today, dill is also used in preparations for babies to calm digestive problems and to soothe them to sleep. Dilly is another name for the herb.

Dill is grown for its fine feathery leaves (dill weed) and seeds. The buff-colored seeds of the dill plant are used as a spice and the feathery leaves are used as an herb. Dill seeds taste a little like caraway and are used in similar ways -- with cabbage, in root vegetable dishes, to flavor soups and stews, and in cheese and egg dishes.

A native of southern Europe, dill is now found all over the world. An annual or biennial, the plant grows to about 3 ft (1 m). Dill is a fairly easy plant to grow, but grow it in a small patch of its own because it is small and likely to get lost among larger plants. It is a hardy plant and can be grown from seed in spring and in succession throughout the summer. Once it has flowered, it seeds quickly, and then the foliage is no longer very suitable for cutting. Keep dill growing persistently with moisture, good soil, and in a light but sheltered position. Dill is one of the few herbs which freezes quite well but, unfortunately, the texture is spoiled.

Both the soft, feathery leaves and the ripe seeds of the dill plant are used to provide a mild aniseed flavor, similar to fennel, although it is sweeter and more aromatic. The dried seeds are stronger tasting than the leaves, and they are commonly used for flavoring pickles. The leaves are not as widely used as they deserve to be, except by the Scandinavians, Germans, and central and eastern Europeans. In Scandinavian cooking, dill is often used with fresh and preserved fish, which it complements well. Dill is used in the famous Swedish pickled raw salmon dish, Gravalax. It goes well with yogurt, thick sour cream and eggs, and makes an excellent wine vinegar. It is also frequently used in Russian cooking, especially with the classic red beet soup, borscht.

Dill is normally added to food when it is almost cooked, or just used as a raw garnish. Although it has a lovely, mild yet subtle flavor; do not use it with a heavy hand.

Makes 2 Cups

• 1/2 hot-house or European cucumber
• 1 tablespoon chopped fresh dill
• 1 1/4 cups low-fat plain yogurt
• 1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
• salt
• pepper

Using a sharp knife, finely chop cucumber. Into a bowl, place cucumber and chopped dill, mixing together well. Stir in plain yogurt and mustard and mix together well. Season with salt and pepper.

Let sauce stand in a cool place 30 minutes before serving to let flavors develop.

Serve with white fish, oily fish, or shellfish.

Serves 4

• 4 bay leaves
• 4 scallions, chopped
• 4 salmon steaks
• 4 tablespoons chopped dill
• 2 teaspoons superfine sugar
• salt
• pepper
• 2 tablespoons lemon juice
• 4 tablespoons melted butter
• 1 cup sour cream
• dill sprigs, to garnish

Lay the bay leaves in the soaked clay pot. Sprinkle half the scallions over, then arrange the salmon steaks on top. Sprinkle half the dill, the remaining scallions, the sugar and seasoning evenly over the fish. Trickle the lemon juice over, then do the same with the melted butter.

Cover the pot and place in the cold oven.

Set the oven at 425F. Cook for 30 - 35 minutes, or until the salmon is cooked.

Meanwhile, stir the remaining chopped dill into the sour cream. Use a fish slice to transfer the fish carefully to warmed plates. The bay leaves may be reserved for garnishing.

Stir the cooking juices into the dill cream and taste for seasoning. Pour a little dill cream over each salmon steak and offer the rest separately. Garnish with dill and bay leaves, if liked.

Serve at once, with new potatoes and salad.

Makes 4 servings

• 8 oz spinach
• 2 tablespoons butter or margarine, diced
• 1 cup vegetarian blue cheese, crumbled
• 1/2 cup whipping cream
• 1 pinch grated nutmeg
• salt
• pepper
• 4 eggs
• 4 sprigs dill, to garnish
• french bread slices, to serve

Preheat oven to 375F (190C). Lightly butter 4 ramekins. Rinse spinach and discard any thick stems. In a large pan, cook spinach with only the water that clings to leaves 1 to 2 minutes or until just wilted. Drain, squeeze out excess liquid and chop finely. Transfer to a bowl.

Beat in butter and cheese until melted, then stir in 1/3 cup of the cream, the nutmeg, salt and pepper. Divide mixture among ramekins. Make a small hollow in center of each one. Break an egg into each hollow and spoon remaining cream over eggs.

Place in a roasting pan. Pour in enough boiling water to come two-thirds up sides of ramekins. Bake 20 to 30 minutes or until eggs feel firm to the touch. Serve hot with French bread and garnish with dill sprigs.