Over the past few years I have noticed an increase in the motivation for people to learn scuba diving. This is a sport that is gear intensive to start but will pay hefty returns for years to come. When you first make a commitment to enroll into an open water course than the first thing the instructor will talk about is what the requirements are. Most scuba diving courses you enroll in will require you to purchase “personal diving equipment”. What this means is a mask, snorkel, booties, and fins. This is the bare minimum to start with as you can always rent until you know that you enjoy scuba diving. DO NOT buy used dive gear! Many students want to cut corners with costs but will end up costing them money in the long run and definitely peace of mind. Think of it like this, would you jump out of an airplane if you were not sure of the usability of the parachute? Then why would you go into an unforgiving environment with questionable scuba gear.

There are several factor to consider when purchasing a dive mask. The first and most important question is does it fit? Most masks are made to fit all but the mask skirts(silicone that comes into contact with your face) can be quite different. Is it a high quality silicone? This will last the longest and will leak minimally. Silicone does not break down as easily as rubber does and will create a much better seal around your face thus keeping the water out. If you have an odd shaped face or hard facial hair than this should be the only choice. If the rubber is cheap the common malfunctions are straps breaking during a dive, or a mask constantly flooding which can make for a really bad experience when you are trying out diving for the first time.

The volume of a dive mask can affect your comfort as well. If it is a low volume mask then it will be easier to clear water out of it but you will have to equalize it more often. I prefer this type of mask even though it is not as comfortable of a feel. Lower profile masks are beneficial because it is harder for a dive buddy to knock it off your face and you generally have a wider view. A high profile mask provides a big mask skirt which has a nice soft feel to your face. The downside of this type is that it takes a bit more effort to clear and is bulky.

Snorkels come in all shapes, sizes, and more recently, with unnecessary gadgets on them. A dry snorkel is a great choice for beginners as they have a mechanism to keep more water out. This works by adding a positively buoyant piece to the tip of the snorkel which closes off the long tube when you go underwater. This is much easier to learn with because you don’t have to think about clearing the water. As soon as the mechanism is above water it opens and air enters freely. This only works if you have the snorkel in your mouth the whole time. One complaint I have with this is that it sometimes gets fidgety and needs a good wiggle to open the valve. They also come with a flexible accordion style neck that allows it to be used effortlessly. Another feature is the purge valve by the mouthpiece. If and when the water enters the snorkel while in use a quick burst will blow the air out of the bottom of the silicone sealed purge valve. An old school j-snorkel is the least expensive but the most difficult to use. Some old timers prefer this because they are more predictable and much smaller than dry snorkels. These are much harder to clear and require some comfort with breathing small amounts of water with each breath. They are quite popular with the free diving community but I would not recommend this to a beginner diver.

Scuba diving fins come with options for just about anyone. I could write a book on this alone but will stick to some of the more important decisions. Split fins are the most advanced and easy to use fins that are on the market. These have a lizard tongue type look to them as they have 2 independent blades on each fin. As you complete each kick cycle the fin opens up and creates a vortex that offer the biggest propulsion for the effort. This is a great choice for women, kids, and if you muscles are not developed for scuba diving. The split fin is the easiest on the calf muscle which is the most common muscle to fatigue while scuba diving. I see two big drawbacks with split fins. The first is that they are much longer and have a bigger “footprint” which can stir up silt and sand on the bottom as you are diving. The second is the price; they run about two times more than blade fins. Blade fins are the stiffer counterpart. Blade fins can provide more torque and power when needed and are great for quick turns and different kick styles. This type is much more strenuous on your calves and ankles and can get annoying if not used to them. The benefit is that they are much less expensive and still work wonders.

Neoprene booties can range from thin sock like boots to thick boots with a strong tennis shoe sole. Stiffer soles provide more power that will go from your leg into the water. If you will do any shore diving then I would suggest getting a stiff sole that allows you to walk over rocks and pavement with all of your dive gear donned. If you will be diving in warm water and off of boats then almost any choice that is easy to pack will work for you.

I have just covered the most common details to consider when buying scuba diving gear for your course. After reading this article you should be able to narrow down the many choices that are available to you. It is always advisable to go to your local dive shop to ask about special considerations for your diving trips. Now get out there and blow some bubbles!