Repairing sheetrock or drywall is fairly simple. Working in college housing maintenance I gained a fair amount of skill working with small wall repairs. Any of the professional methods I learned also apply in the home.

I have developed a set of steps to make the job quick and easy. Materials for the project aren't expensive and leftovers and tools can always be used for future home maintenance. There are two ways to repair walls in the home, which one you use depends on the size of the hole. The first is to buy a patch kit at any local hardware store, and works for small holes up to 3 inches in diameter. They're a good choice for anyone who does not already own or want to own a power screw driver. The second is to cut a square of drywall to replace the damaged area. While this takes more time and tools, it provides an invisible patch even if the damage is extensive.

The kits come with squares of drywall repair patches and often include a small amount of packing compound. You will need:

- putty knife

- 6" taping knife

- drywall joint compound or spackle

- Sand paper.

Some patch kits have adhesive on one side of the mesh patch to keep the mess to a minimum. If the adhesive isn't there on the kit you get, the wall around the hole needs to be primed with a thin layer of jointing compound and the patch piece pressed on. If you use an adhesive patch, simply stick the patch square over the hole and smooth the edges.

Next place a small amount of compound over the square pressing some of the compound through the mesh into the hole. Finish the job with the 6" knife to smooth out the finish. Let dry completely and sand until smooth. If any fibers or cracks appear simply reapply the compound until the patch dries smooth.

I have found that using three layers and fanning the compound out with each application works the best. By overlapping each coat an inch or so over the edge of the last application I have seen patches become invisible once painted.

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Using the Replacement method is my preferred method, and works on large holes over 3 inches. Large holes are a problem because the patch needs to be strong. This does take a bit more work, but if done right a large patch can become stronger than the wall around it. These patches also take a few more tools and materials:

- Tape measure or ruler

- Sheetrock saw

- sheetrock material large enough for patch

- putty knife

- tapping knives 6, 8, and 10 inch in width

- Drywall mesh tape

- Electric screw driver, or power drill

- two lengths of board

- 8-16 drywall screws food wood

- joint compound

- sand paper

One trick I have learned is that sheetrock will sometimes have more damage on the inside of a hole than what you can see on the surface. Feeling the backside will usually give a good estimate on the actual damage. Mark the total area needing replacement on all four sides. On average you'll need to allow only 2 inches on each side, top and bottom. Measure the area and draw a square with the hole as the center. Cut the damaged area out.

* Tip: I have found that if the hole is near a wall stud cut along the edge of the stud. Take a Utility knife and cut the drywall over the stud another 3/8 inch. This will place the new patch half on the stud and the end result will be a strong patch.

Next cut your sheetrock to fit into the hole, this may take a little fitting to get right. I usually cut my patch piece to the dimensions first and the trace it on the wall. This has usually makes a quicker and neater patch job.

Once the hole has been cut out cut two lengths of wood to about 4 inches large than the square hole. When dealing with particularly large holes I would advise adding several more inches. These support beams give the patch a base to hold to and anchors the patch to the wall.

I like using 3 inches wide lengths of 3/8 ply-board since the wood does not split and takes screws well. Place the boards on the inside of the square hole vertically. Make sure the boards overlap evenly and screw them to the wall. If the patch is really large you need to double the screws for proper anchorage. You should now have a square hole with two boards inside it slightly resembling a window frame.

Place the patch piece in the square hole and screw to the backing boards. Four screws will do for holes up to 16 inches. If the patch is bigger add a couple more screws for extra strength.

* Tip: screw the drywall screws in just below the surface of the patch. If you pass your fingers over the screw and fell a pump sink the screw a little deeper. This will allow a smooth area for your drywall compound, and look great when finished.

Apply the mesh tape along the joint and smooth. Now you're ready to mud the joint.

Spread the jointing compound along the seem and over the mesh tape. Press the compound into the cracks and then smooth with the 6" jointing knife. Make sure to put enough compound on to fully cover the tape.

Let dry overnight so the surface won't smear. Drywall joint compound always shrinks a little on the first coat, so don't worry about bumps and cracks when the first coat dries.

Sand some of the rough spots off and wipe clean. Apply some more compound and smooth with the 8" knife trying to get a even surface. Let dry and repeat once dry with the 10" joint knife.

Sand the end product lightly removing any slight ridges that may have gone unnoticed. Paint to match the wall and step back to admire your work.