Fancy a fantastic day out in the South of France
79Collioure a Catalan port close to the Spanish Border
The following tour goes through the Languedoc-Roussillion region of Southern France. It is for the wine buff, the historians interested in the Cathar period and for simple admirers of wonderful scenery. For sightseeing attractions in the South of France, it doesn't get any better than this and this route is well worth a visit.
The journey starts at Carcassonne where you can get on the A61 'peage' heading towards Narbonne. The first port of call is approximately an hour and a half away and is called Collioure situated just south of Perpignan. To get there you pick up the A9 south off the A61 as you travel towards Narbonne, leave the A9 near Le Boulou and take the D618 towards Argeles then the D2 and finally the D114 which goes right into Collioure.
The reason for taking the motorway is because speed is of the essence and if you set off around 9.30 to 10.00 a.m. You will be arriving in Collioure at a very convenient time to take a delicious lunch at one of the sea food restaurants that overlook the little pebble beach next to the port
First Stop Collioure
Now I had better warn you parking won't be easy Collioure is a little gem of a place and the word is out so be prepared to have to tour around a bit to get parked. The months of July and August bring hoards of visitors and long lines of traffic so beware.
Matisse "discovered" the town in 1905 and because of the clarity of light from the sun combined with the blue of the sky and sea, he managed to persuade other painters such as Dufy, Dali and Picasso to join him, the artist studio theme remains to this day and you will find lots of budding painters and artists studios throughout the town.
The harbor is full of "working" fishing boats, as well as boats dedicated to coastal tours, well worth taking for an hour and a half or so if you can spare the time.
There are beaches which seemed quite popular despite having pebbles rather than sand and perfect to relax on for an hour after lunch, then you can visit the Chateau Royal, built by the Knights Templar in the 13th century, take one of the boat trips or just wander through the quirky little streets browsing in the shops or buying a piece of art from one of the many studio outlets, Don't dwell too long though there is still a long way to go.
Fitou, oldest Languedoc-Rousillion AOC wine
Next Stop Fitou
You now need to head back to the A9 and aim for Fitou going North, you will see it signposted from the motorway.
Fitou is wine producing country and you will find a few degustations where you can taste the local wine (driver can't swallow remember) so it' worth a quick stopover, particularly as Fitou is the oldest Languedoc-Roussillion AOC wine.
Fitou is very close to Port la Nouvelle and the island of the Sainte Lucie which is supposed to be one of the most beautiful sites on the Mediterranean, the beaches of La Frangui and La Palme are also close by if you fancy a bit more beach time. Fitou also has it's own chateau or medieval castle which was built in the 10th century
When you have finished at Fitou you need to back track a little and head south again towards Rivesaltes where you can pick up the D117 to Espira-de-l'Agly and eventually Quillan.
Looking over the grapevines to the chateau
Through Cathar country and past the Cathar Fortresses
Once on the D117 you can stay on it all the way to Quillan, at the start you will be driving through wine country and will be amazed by the endless rows of grape vines, it does enter your mind as to who will drink all this wine, but then I wouldn't mind having a little go myself.
A nice place to do a bit of wine tasting if you fancy it and have time for a little detour is the Chateau de Caladroy which is a little bit south of Estagel
The scene changes, as you travel along, to that of mountains and Cathar fortresses with wonderful scenery and lots of picnic places to stop in.
Then the road eventually starts to run alongside the fast flowing River Agly which has carved a way through the rock, at some points to a depth of 300m, forming the Gorge de Galamus.
You can see where man has had to do some rock carving as well in places to make the road high enough for the 'Camions' to get through.
You will pass through Saint Paul-de- Fenouillet, Caudies de Fenouilledes and Saint Martin Lys passing very close to the Chateau de Queribus and the Chateau de Peyrepertuse.
Peyrepertuse sits above the town
Quillan and Esperaza
Quillan is a shoe making centre and sort of working town, it sits just south of Esperaza via the D118 (where they found some pretty cool dinosaurs eggs which are now on display at Dinosauria. Esperaza is also quite well known for making hats at the beginning of the 20th century.
After Esperaza you will come into Couiza (make a note of this place if you fancy some white water rafting at some point in your holiday). Couiza is where you will find the road up to Rennes le Chateau one of the most famous Cathar fortresses, there is only one way up and down and that is from Couiza but it is worth it just for the views.
Guidebooks for the Languedoc-Rousillion Region
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The Da Vinci Code
Price: $4.99
List Price: $7.99 |
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Labyrinth
Price: $4.95
List Price: $15.00 |
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The Rough Guide to Languedoc and Roussillon 3 (Rough Guide Travel Guides)
Price: $15.06
List Price: $21.99 |
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The Knights Templar: The History and Myths of the Legendary Military Order
Price: $7.47
List Price: $13.95 |
Mountain road on route to Quillan
Couiza, gateway to Rennes le Chateau
As well as Couiza being the gateway to Rennes le Chateau you can take the D613 from here and visit Rennes les Bains where you will find the chlorine and calcium hot water spas (the name gives it away) so you can treat the rheumatism you got from sitting in the car too long. Arques is not too much further along this route, this is where you will find that there are still a few Cathars and there is an exhibition in the town centre about the Cathar history in the Roche house.
Alternatively you can head up the D118 towards Limoux and Carcassonne and back into wine country. Limoux plays host to the sparkling white wine credited with being the oldest bubbly in the world, dated from around 1531.
You will also pass through the lovely Alet-le Baines on route to Limoux which is another spa town, never have guessed would you.
From Limoux you are nearly back where you started and can head home, there are plenty of other lovely places in the area including Fanjeaux, another Cathar stronghold, which you will see if you are heading towards Castelnaudary. Fanjeaux perches high on a hill and provides some more wonderful views and a restaurant or two if you don't fancy cooking.
Of course Carcassonne itself is a wonderful city and La Cite it's famous medieval fortified town has plenty of restaurants where you can go to eat and relax before heading off to find your bed, because after this you are going to need a good nights sleep.
We run a gite about 40 minutes from Carcassonne which you can find out about by visiting our website French Holidays Aude, the website also has a travel advice section to help you make all your travel arrangements and a travel shop where you can purchase from a range of products to accessorise your holiday.
So if you are interested in a holiday near Caracassonne or Toulouse and would like travel advice for the region then please visit the website by clicking on the link above
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BrianS, Looking forward to viewing all the pictures on my friend's (the one who wants to retire in Provence) computer, since his is fast and mine is slow. Do like D117 adjacent to the River Agly photo. Kind Regards
Provence is a lovely part of France and I holidayed there many years ago, we have plans to go again when we can but it will be a while. I didn't do photography the last time I went so would like to make up for that some time. When we do go, you can be sure there will be a hub on the agenda.
hi, it is wonderful photo collection. it is really tempting me to visit this place. nice presentation. posted it in my facebook pro.
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Clare says:
14 months ago
We went to Couiza and Rennes le Chateau last year, they are fabulous and the scenary and views are lovely in this area.