Feeding Habits of Ball Pythons
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Ball Pythons
Ball pythons are one of the best beginner snakes in the pet trade today. They have earned this title because they are calm and docile with easy husbandry needs, not because of their feeding habits.
Ball pythons are VERY picky eaters. It is very hard to successfully get a ball python to eat F/T mice or F/T rats. But, not impossible. Many petstores feed live mice and rats to their ball pythons, so when you get them home, it become quite a challenge getting them on frozen foods.
I've tried. I've tried many methods. I haven't gotten one to work. I've attempted leaving the frozen mouse in the cage over night, leaving it in his hide over night, covering the cage with towels, and dipping the mouse in tuna juice. The only thing I have not tried is putting the snake and thawed mouse in a pillow case-type bag.
For the past year my ball python has eaten live rats, except the 1 thawed pinkie and 1 thawed mouse that he has recently taken.
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Ball Pythons (Reptile Keepers Guide)
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Feeding Ball Pythons
Not just looking at feeding ball pythons from a live or frozen standpoint, in general they are proven finicky feeders. It is not uncommon for a ball python to go without food for over a year. Not because he's not hungry, but it could be due to various reasons.
My ball python decided to go without food for five months this past winter. I could not keep his tank temperatures up high enough for him, so he chose not to eat.
The slightest change in temperatures, too hot or too cold, upgrading enclosures, changing habitat decor, or even the placement of the tank, could all upset a ball python into not eating.
Sometimes you have to force feed them to get them started eating again. I have heard of times where a ball python will begin to loose substantial weight, even after just six months of not eating. And, a veterinarian told the customer to begin force feeding. In some cases, force feeding is the only option to getting a ball python to eat, but should NOT be attempted unless you know what you're doing.
You can, also, look at what you're feeding him. If he's used to eating frozen and stops eating, you could try feeding him live. I would wait several months before attempting this, giving the snake plenty of time to take a frozen mouse or rat, since that's what he's used to. It's VERY hard to get a ball python, much less any snake, to go back to frozen feeders after they have had a live feeder.
Sometimes, ball pythons can get even more picky than frozen versus live. Sometimes, they will only take one color mouse or rat, if that's what they're used to. I've even heard it so bad, that a particular ball python would only eat white FEMALE rats. It would NOT eat a male rat.
The biggest thing that you, or any ball python owner, must figure out, is your pet snake's tastes. I know it sounds funny, but somethimes that's the case.
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Comments
i recntly bought a 3ft ball python from my teacher and he hasent eaten in a month and a half is there any advice u can give tohelp him be less stressed
Mychal, a month and a half isn't anythign to worry about. What was he eating before- frozen or live? Stick with that. Sounds like it's either a full grown male at around 2 plus years or a growing female. So you shouldn't have anything to worry about. They can go over 6 months without eating and not have any health effects, and it's not uncommon for them to go over a year without eating.
As the season is a chilly one, he could be feeling the change in season. Even if your enclosure temps are correct (90F), the season could be affecting the feeding strike. My 2 yr old hasn't fed in over 6 months bc of the season, and that's not for lack of trying.
Also, yout purchased him. Make the enclosure as similar to his last one. But, in many cases the change alone will upset them. When putting my 2 year old into a 29gal from his 10gal, he quit eating for several months.
Just bare with it. You've chosen a ball python, just something you have to deal with at this point. They're well known picky eaters. It sucks. It's the one thing I hate about the species.
My ball python is 3' feet long and eats like a pig! It eats 2 medium rats every two weeks and still hungry. I don't know if I am feeding him too much or he just eats alot.
MY BALL WAS A HATCHLING WHEN MY BOYFRIEND AND I BOUGHT HIM ABOUT TWO MONTHS AGO, HE WAS CAPTIVE BRED AND HAD BEEN EATING REGULARLY AT THE PET STORE.. HE ATE THREE FUZZIES (PREKILLED) ONCE WE GOT HIM HOME AND JUST UNDERWENT HIS FIRST SHED AND HAS NOT EATEN IN OVER TWO WEEKS.. FROM WHAT I HAVE READ I SEEM TO BE OVER REACTING BUT HE LOOKS AND FEELS SKINNIER THAN WHEN BEFORE. ANY ADVICE?
Joker- I would personally stick with one medium rat or 1 large rat. Make sure that the rat isn't bigger than the widest portion of the snake.
Jessie- You're worried for nothing. He may feel skinnier, but in order to tell if he really is, you'd need to weight him, and keep up-to-date weights on the snake. 2 weeks isn't really that big of a deal. I would watch him. I wouldn't say it' hatchling if it's eating fuzzies by any means, but in any sense, just keep trying on the regular day that he normally is supposed to eat. Because he's young, if he doesn't eat after 6 weeks, you'll need to find someone, preferrably a vet, to show you have to force feed the snake. If he's already eating prekill, frozen feeders, don't go live on him. Ball pythons are very sensitive snakes, and you have just changed the environment that he was used to. It's going to take time for him to adjust.
I just got a ball python about 5weeks ago and it's about 16inches long. i still have not been able to get him to eat. I have tried very small pre killed mice and even some very small live mice. It shows no sign of hunger. I know adults can go a good while without food but im worries because he is so small if I should do something. Cause he needs to eat to grow. I have only seen VERY little weight loss.
Scott- ball pythons get stressed easily and quickly. Moving to a new enclosure is a big change in a snake's life, and can create stress concerns. If you notice weight loss, you may consider force feeding a small thawed pinkie or fuzzy. Otherwise, let it be. For the most part, he'll eat when he's ready.
Make sure the temps are accurate, as well, because improper temps can cause a reptile not to eat.
my ball pythons havent eaten in 3 months. i have been feeding them frozen mice for about a year now and then all of a sudden they have just stopped eating. i tried to feed them a live mouse the other day and they were not interested in it at all. are they hybernating or sick? what should i try and do? and what is force feeding?
morgan, because the weather is getting warm, I wouldn't think that it's hybernating, but if there has been a drop in weather in your area, it's possible. 3 months is nothing to worry about, as they can go over 6 months without worry. My adult male went about 8 months without eating this winter. As long as there is not drastic weight loss, there's nothing to worry. Just stick with the frozen mice. Try every other week, so that you don't waste them.
i bought my snake about a month ago she is about 2 years old and the pet store didnt know the last time she ate , we have left her in her cage since we had her and take her out on occasion so she can get used to her new habbitiat, i know they only go up to 6 months without eating but i dont know the last time she ate and im worried. any help?
They can go longer than 6 months. Much longer. I've heard of snakes going nearly 1 year without eating. But, usually a vet will tell you to attempt force feeding if you notice weight loss. You may consider taking a small frozen mouse (thawed), and holding her right behind her jaws. Her jaws will open up; just put the mouse in her mouth. If she wants it she'll take it, otherwise, she won't bother and will fight you. If she really begins to loose weight consider taking her to a vet, as it could be parasites, impaction, or anyother health concern. You may have to force feed smaller prey such as fuzzies, which will be easier to force down. But consult a vet before you do this.
Excellent article, if anyone has tried a couple methods still to no avail get a long set of tongs, dangle the rat, and if necessary GENTLY tap the nose.
I have had experiences with a couple ball pythons now, and only had an issue with two of the five not eating frozen mice. However, I've found by dangling the mice from a pair of long tongs, and then gently tapping the nose, usually gets them to chow down. Both of the picky eaters have been converted to frozen rats this way, although I do have to feed one with the tongs every occasion although it is no longer necessary for me to tap the rat on his nose... he sees it dangling and comes runnin! (Okay... slitherin')
It took me a while to get my ball python eating frozen feeders. I still have a few problems with him, but for the most part if I know he's hungry but is still refusing the frozen rat, I can put the head in his mouth, and he immediately takes it. Granted that's not always the case, but it works most of the times.
I'm used to fussy snakes! My female Corn snake decided to go without food for about 3 months when I first got her, after taking 2 like a lamb at first. Now, she'll eat fine, except when shedding, then she'll leave it for her brother to have instead.
Ravyn, corn snakes are nothing compared to BPs, when you change to a new enclosure, they tend to stop eating. When you move the enclosure to a different spot, they may stop eating. Sometimes they refuse a different color mouse/rat. I've known people where their BP refuses any rat that's not a white female; it even refuses white males.
I bought a ball python 3 months ago, and he didn't want to eat at first. I found that thawing them in HOT water for about 15 minutes followed by kind of a puppet show with some long tongs....they rarely last more then a few seconds and the only time he hasn't eaten is when he's about to shed. He's about 20 inches and I feed him a small mouse every 4-5 days. I visited PetSmart where I bought him and found he's siblings to be much fatter then him, so I asked how often they feed him and they said every 3-4 days but each feeding they feed them multiple mice until they stop eating. I was told by another pet store that that is not a good idea and can lead to digestive issues.
Because pet stores get snakes in all the time, you can't be guaranteed that those are your snake's clutchmates. But you never know, they may be. Stick with what you're doing. One mouse once a week for his size seems right. When he gets bigger you can do 2 a feeding. You actually may be able to pull off 2 a feeding now, depending on the girth of the snake.
Whitney,
I am reading all of your responses because I am having the same problem as others with my new BP. I am not worried yet, thanks to all of your responses, but I was told that my snake is really young and small compared to most seen in pet stores. Some that see her say that they can't believe a breeder would ship it so small because it is so hard to get them to eat if it is put in a pet store too soon.
My question is...if force feeding does become nessecary in the future, what do you do after you get the pinky into its mouth? Can you please explain the professional step by step method of getting it to consume what you are forcing without damaging or hurting the snake's mouth and throat?
Thanks!
Usually reputable breeders wait until a snake eats at least 3 successful meals. Because you got the snake at a pet store, it came from a wholesale company and not a breeder, more than likely, which means that this feeding strengent is not guaranteed by any means. Having worked at a pet store before, I've only met a few ball pythons that would eat on their own, even thought the wholesale company supposidely guaranteed that they ahd been fed 3 successfull frozen meals.
That said, because it is a ball python, I wouldn't worry because they stress very easily, and if the snake is a young as you say, he's by far definitely stressed being shipped to the pet store and then rearranged again at you house. So, ave him alone. Don't play with him, don't touch him. Just ensure that he has water. Give him a week before you try to feed him or before you try again.
More than likely the snake is able to eat fuzzies, but pinkies are much easier to force feed. Don't forcefeed until the snake starts to loose weight. You may need to invest in a scale that reads grams ort even ounces will do. But because the snake is small, you'll need something that will better weigh the snake so you can accurately tell whether it's loosing weight or not.
Before you opt to forcefeed, you'll want to give the snake at least 2-3 tries at feeding on his own. Try leaving a VERY, VERY hot pinkie in a small kritter keeper or container with the snake for at least 30 minutes. That will give the snake the opportunity to eat it on its own. If that doesn't work, you can try wriggling the pinkie with a pair of tongs or tweezers. Try both of these methods a few times. You can also use the tongs and gently tap the snakes nose with the pinkie.
If you have to end up force feeding, you'll want to really consult a vet first to eliminate the possible threat of parasites. A reputable reptiel vet can also give you hands on pointers to forcefeeding.
But, doing it at home, gently grab the snake by the back of its head, squeeze just a little and his jaws should open up. Use the tongs and put the pinkie in the snake's mouth. You can use your fingers if you're more comfortable that way. Give the snake the chance to take the pinkie from that point (sometimes once it's in their mouth they'll start feeding on their own), but if he tries to spit it out, you can use the tongs and just GENTLY push the pinkie down his mouth. And that's basically it. Just be VERY, VERY gentle when pushing the pinkie. When I've had to do it in the past, I've found I'm more comfortable using my fingers so I can better tell what I'm doing. You may have to close his mouth once you get the pinkie down far enough.
Thanks Whitney. I will follow these instructions. The pet store manager and I are good friends. She told me this python and two other babies were shipped together from some breeder in Atlanta that they use. She said they always get them from there but for some reason, these were the smallest she had ever gotten. She looks real healthy and has awesome coloring. When I bought her they were just walking back in the door from taking her to the vet. She got checked for mites and was probed and sexed. They said something about an antibiotic shot was given? She certainly didn't feel well after the vet and laid her head in my hand for a long time. I worried about it but bought her anyway. She wouldn't go to anyone except me after that. (That could be in our heads but that is how she acted...lol)
After leaving her alone in her new 30gal tank for a few days, she has become not shy to roam around the tank during the day. I have gotten her out a few times and walked around with her outside or put her under the blanket with me while watching TV and she seems fine. Loves to be cozied in a warm place of course.
But if you think I should stop handling her for a while, I will. It is my understanding that these pythons get alot more stressed than people think and it is hard to see symptoms. Maybe in a couple more weeks, I will try to feed her again in her little 10gal tank and see how it goes. Force feeding is a FINAL option for me. I do not want to do that if I don't have to. Thanks for all of your help!!! I really appreciate it!
cb
Sorry to write again. I forgot to mention to you that my friend at the pet store said she had gotten her to eat hoppers twice, in the month it had been there, but no luck at all with frozen pinkies. I am not a fan of the frozen food anyway. Just wanted to let you know it supposedly ate at the store...
Thanks Again!
cavebuddy, frozen is the BEST way to feed the snake. At this current size, live isn't a problem, but when the snake is bigger and can eat medium to large size rats, you risk serious injury. If you start the snake on live now you'll have a hard time getting it on frozen. Stick with it. It's best for hte snake. Sorry to hear you don't like frozen prey, but it's the best option. oR you risk physical injury to the snake. And then you risk infection, which is another vet visit for medications.
You should never handle a snake for at least 7 days after bringing it home. It's the best way to acclimate it to its new home to help minimize stress. Because you've been handling the snake, you've caused more stress than just bringing it home initially. Also, a 29 gallon (or 30, it's essentially the same size) is a little big for a baby snake. They can get severely stressed in larger enclosures. A 10 gallon would be perfect for the snake until it is about 20 inches long and 1-1/2 to 2 inches thick. Give or take, of course. Then you would upgrade to the 29 gallon tank. You'll need a larger tank when the snake is full grown, since it's been probed and determined female.
Force feeding is usually the last option for people as it will stress out the snake more than regular feeding. Give the snake 1 full week without you handling it and then try to feed it again.
And yes the snake coming to you alone after the 1st visit is in your head. Snake's aren't like dogs. You may have more body heat which is what the snake would be attracted to. Check the temps in the enclosure and make sure that the snake is getting appropriate temperatures on the bottom of the tank. Use a digital thermometer with a probe for like 10 bucks for the best thermometer.
working
Pam Christman says:
4 months ago
My Pedro 1 foot long enjoys his live white mice he eats once a week, and is perfectly content with that. He is very gentle and loves to be held. He doesn't pee in the floor or tar up stuff or shed hair all over the firniture. Snakes are great pets you gotta love em'