Here are two authentic, delicious (but really rather messy) gambas recipes from Provence.

In both recipes the prawns are served in their shells - so please provide plenty of napkins, bibs, finger-bowls, etc.

For a slightly more genteel dish, you could always shell the prawns beforehand, or leave just the ends of the tails on for easier handling.

But where's the fun in that?

Gambas au Basilic:

(Large Tiger Prawns with Garlic & Basil)

Ingredients (for 4 servings): 48 large raw tiger prawns, shell on; 1 large handful fresh basil leaves; 2 tablespoons olive oil; 4 large cloves garlic; finely grated zest of 1 lemon; 100g dried fine white breadcrumbs; salt and freshly-ground black pepper.

Method: Put the basil, garlic and olive oil in a food processor and puree into a thick, unctuous paste. (You could also do this with a pestle and mortar if time isn't of the essence and you need the therapy!).

Add the lemon zest, the breadcrumbs and just a little salt and pepper. Set aside.

Now heat your grill to its highest setting.

Split open the tiger prawns and remove the black intestinal thread that runs down their middles. Lay the prawns, side by side and cut side up, on an ovenproof tray that will fit under your grill

Spread the basil and garlic paste all over the tops of the prawns.

Grill the prawns, basting with more basil and garlic puree as the fancy takes you. The prawns are done when the flesh no longer appears translucent. This should take about 6-8 minutes, depending on the size of your prawns and the ferocity of your grill.

Serve very, very hot with lots of bread to soak up the delicious juices.

Gambas aux Tomates:

(LargeTiger Prawns with Tomato Sauce)

Ingredients (for 4 servings): 1 kg large tiger prawns; 4 tablespoons olive oil; 2 cloves garlic; 250 ml light tomato sauce (see recipe below);handful of fresh basil leaves; salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Method: Wash the prawns quickly and dry thoroughly on kitchen paper. Peel and slice the garlic.

Heat the olive oil in a large, deep frying pan and fry the garlic until it just starts to color. Add the light tomato sauce, bring to the boil, lower the heat and simmer gently for 5 minutes. Season.

Add the prawns (unpeeled, partly peeled or not peeled at all, as the fancy takes you) and cook over a moderate heat for 5-6 minutes.

Cover the pan, turn off the heat and leave to stand for a further 5 minutes.

Serve the dish in a large, attractive bowl, with lots of fresh basil leaves torn up with your fingers and sprinkled over the top at the last minute.

Light Tomato Sauce:

Ingredients: 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil; 1 medium onion; 800g ripe tomatoes; 1 clove garlic; 1 glass dry white wine; 1 cup chicken or vegetable stock; a good pinch of dried herbes de Provence; 1 small handful finely chopped fresh basil; salt and freshly-ground black pepper; 1 teaspoon caster sugar (optional).

Method: Heat the olive oil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan.

Peel and finely chop the onion. Peel and crush the garlic. Peel, deseed and chop the tomatoes.

Soften the onion in the olive oil without browning. Once the onion has softened, add the chopped tomatoes and cook over a gentle heat for 15 minutes. Then add the crushed garlic, the dried herbs, the white wine and the stock. Cover the pan and simmer over a moderate heat for a further 15 minutes.

Remove the cover and reduce the sauce by half. Season to taste. If the tomatoes you have used are not fully ripe, you might like to add a teaspoon of caster sugar. Just before serving stir in the finely chopped fresh basil.