Glycolic acid is an alpha-hydroxy acid. Like other organic acids such as lactic, tartaric, citric and malic acids, it is derived from aliments, in this case of sugar cane. Among the other acids mentioned, the glycolic is the one who has the smallest molecular structure and thus better absorption through skin.

The pure glycolic acid has pH (acidity index) close to 1.0 (very high acidity), and therefore must be neutralized (diluted) for dermatological use (else it would not be tolerated by our skin).

The glycolic acid has the power to act by increasing the structure of the epidermis (the most external layer of skin), the dermis, and collagen, providing an efficient method to reverse the damage caused by the acne scars and photo aging of the skin (improvement in texture and color and reduction of wrinkles). It also helps other products to penetrate the skin (such as vitamin C, for example).

Unlike retinoic acid, that requires a medical prescription, the glycolic acid, depending on its concentration can be found in cosmetics stores and it’s therapeutic effects were demonstrated in clinical studies. If compared to retinoic acid, the glycolic acid usually has fewer side effects but it is also less efficient. Still, recommended for people who suffer with varicose veins, since they increase with the use of retinoic acid.

Like with many skin treatments based in acids, the person using glycolic acid products should avoid sun exposure and wear sunscreen.

There’s a wide range of products containing glycolic acid, and the most famous is probably Glyquin XM with a 10% glycolic acid concentration that is also very good to get rid of bleach spots on your skin. I should also mention Diacneal da Avéne which contains glycolic acid to 6% and Dermage Clarité, two solid choices if you’re interested in this kind of product.


It is always important to remember that although there are various cosmetic that contain glycolic acid in its composition, it is mandatory that these products are prescribed by a dermatologist. He can assess whether the product is appropriate for your skin type and tell you what’s the concentration you should use for better results, so follow my advise and talk with a specialist before buying any kind glycolic acid skin care products.