How do gardeners, raised on the concept that we do what we want, how we want and when we want, "go green" and do the right things for the environment, without feeling like we're being forced to?  It's easy. And it's not a liberal agenda; it's actually very conservative. Rational people wanting to do what is best for themselves and can see the benefits of investing a little effort and money up front, in order to save in the long run. It's a green solution.  Even churches are getting into the act these days. "You know - that 'good steward' thing."   It reminds me of Ezekial 22:30: "And I sought for a man among them that should make up a hedge, and stand in the gap before me on behalf of the land ..."  But let's not get too heavy here.  All we are talking about is doing a few little things that can improve the quality of your home, garden, pocketbook and even pride (did I mention that they're also the "right" things to do, and benefit communities, and even the nation and the world?).  Make your lawn smaller by grouping lower-maintenance trees and hardy shrubs, which can still look great while reducing mowing and all that.  Plant shade trees, vines and wind screens.  Put leaves in a leaf pile instead of on the curb, even if you don't want to be a composter.  Make a rain barrel. Occasionally use a clothesline.  We'll kick around easy ideas you can use to make your garden - and your life - a little "greener." Without feeling like you are in a cult.  Remember "maybe you can't change the whole world. But by slightly modifying the way you garden, you can change your backyard. And that's a start."   Pine Cone Wreath---The other day I remembered one of my first school projects - a turkey made with a pinecones and a construction paper cutout of my hand.  That little turkey decorated our Thanksgiving table until I was well out of high school.   The memory of my childhood pine cone turkey inspired me to head out to the woods around the yard to collect pine cones to make a wreath that I could use for my own Thanksgiving celebration.   This project will create a small pinecone wreath.   Materials: Dry Pine Cones in Small to Medium Sizes (These can be purchases at craft stores if you don’t have any pine trees nearby.) 12-inch Foam Wreath Hot Glue Gun Hot Glue Sticks Floral Wire Wire clippers Sheet Moss Acrylic Sealant  Directions:  Wiring the Pinecones     Tying the pine cones to the foam wreath     Filling Gaps with Sheet Moss  I tried hot gluing the first few pine cones to the foam wreath, but it was difficult to make them stick.  So I wired a single ring of pine cones on the wreath to create a base, which gave the other pine cones something to “grab” onto and made the hot glue more effective.  If you run into the same problem just wrap a length of floral wire around the pine cone, twist once to secure, then tie the pine cone to the wreath.  Hot glue smaller pinecones to the wreath.  Be sure to hold the pinecone in place for a few seconds until the glue starts to set.  Don’t worry if the pinecones don’t fit together tightly, you will fill the gaps with sheet moss.  Glue sheet moss to the backside to cover the wires and any glue.  Finish up by poking pieces of sheet moss into the open spaces between the pinecones.  Spray with sealant to help preserve the pine cones and add a little polish.  This wreath is best suited for indoor use, but it can be hung outdoors in an area sheltered from the elements.  Cinnamon Pine Cones---This is a natural way to add a little fragrance to your holiday decorations.     1. Apply a few drops of cinnamon oil to each pinecone with a cotton swab.    2. Store the pinecones in a plastic bag for a few days.    3. Place the pine cones in a bowl and enjoy the festive scent of cinnamon.  Inkberry Holly---Inkberry holly (Ilex glabra) is a medium sized shrub that is classified as a broadleaf evergreen. Unlike most hollies, which have bright red berries, inkberry holly has jet-black berries. Inkberry holly is a member of the Holly plant family (Aquifoliaceae), which includes the beautiful red-berried American holly tree as well as the Winterberry holly shrub.  Native to the coastal plain regions along the eastern seaboard from Maine to Florida and across to the gulf coast as far west as Texas, inkberry holly is hardy between USDA zones 4 and 9. It thrives in medium to wet soils, inkberry holly grows to a height of about 8 feet at maturity. The cultivar I. Glabra ‘Compacta’, which is probably the most popular cultivar of inkberry holly, only grows to a height of 3 to 4 feet.  Inkberry holly is ideally suited for growing as a hedge requiring little maintenance. The small white flowers bloom in May and June. The berries are showy and will attract birds to the garden. Inkberries are dioecious, male and female plants are on different shrubs. Cultivars are typically female and will need a male plant nearby if you want it to produce berries. Winterberry Holly---Winterberry holly (Ilex verticillata) is a small to medium sized (typically 6 to 8 feet tall) multi-stemmed shrub that grows in USDA hardiness zones 3 to 9. Unlike most members of the Aquifoliaceae or holly family, winterberry holly is deciduous, the dark green leaves turning yellow before they drop in the fall. In keeping with its relatives however, winterberry holly displays bright red berries against light gray and whitish twigs and stems, that often persist into January and February.  In its natural habitat, winterberry holly is often found at the edges of wet areas. It prefers acidic moist soils and is best planted in large groupings for spectacular effect. For the best berry display, winterberry holly should be grown in full sun, although it will grow in some shade as well. Each shrub has either male or female flowers, which grow on the current year’s growth. Therefore, both male and female plants, in a suggested planting ratio of 1 to 3 or 5, must be present in order for pollination to occur and subsequently produce the red fruits or berries.  Most members of the holly family have poisonous berries and the winterberry holly is no exception; however, the leaves are made into a tea and the bark has astringent properties and is an antiseptic as well.  Chickadees Are Cold Weather Machines---Though any bird that survives winter around here amazes those of us that depend on furnaces and warm blankets, the black-capped chickadee may be the most incredible of all winter survivors.  Black-capped Chickadees have a wonderful assortment of adaptations for the winter. Carefully hidden food items, dense winter coats, specially selected winter roost cavities and perhaps most remarkable of all, the ability to go into nightly hypothermia, thus conserving large amounts of energy, greatly increases the chances of survival. The ability to go into regulated hypothermia actually lowers the chickadee’s body temperature in a controlled manner, down to about 12 or 15 degrees (F.) below their normal daytime temperature of 108 degrees (F.). This remarkable adaptation allows the bird to conserve almost 25 percent of its hourly metabolic expenditure when the outside temperature is at freezing. The lower the outside temperature, the more energy conserved.  Chickadees are not the suburban wimps that some people think they are. Every winter morning chickadees have to replace the fat they used overnight. As the small birds struggled against starvation and stinging cold, they earned my respect.  They are tough survivors that live close to the edge of life.   Trees and Wildlife---Well-selected trees nourish and protect wildlife. Which species among the following three would be the best tree for a native-plant wildlife garden?  Eastern Red Cedar Juniperus virginiana White Oak Quercus alba Horse-chestnut Aesculus hippocastanum  For feeding and protecting the wildlife in your backyard, it's hard to beat Eastern Red Cedar (or another species in the genus Juniperus that is native to your area). Eastern Red Cedars and other junipers are evergreen and their dense branches provide excellent cover and protection from the elements year-round. A cluster of junipers can even be dense enough to shelter large animals. Junipers can harbor hibernating bats and other small mammals in winter; nesting birds in spring and summer (Cooper's Hawks, Bluebirds, Northern Flickers, Woodpeckers and many others); and roosting owls at any time. Many different bird species have been recorded as nesting, in open nests or cavities, in Juniper (Juniperus occidentalis). In addition to cover, Juniperus species provide food. Many bird species, including the Cedar Waxwing -- which was named for this preferred food -- eat juniper berries or cones. Quail, grouse, turkeys, jays, woodpeckers and thrushes are some of many bird species known to feed on Eastern Red Cedar. They are also joined by rabbits, foxes, raccoons, mice, coyotes and deer. Deer browse on the foliage of Western Juniper. The Juniper Hairstreak and several other species of hairstreak butterflies utilize junipers as host plants for their caterpillars.  Native oaks are superb wildlife plants as well, although perhaps a bit less versatile than junipers. They provide good nesting sites for birds and squirrels, and they tend to retain their leaves well into fall, providing extra cover and protection. Acorns are staples for many species of birds and mammals -- from jays to squirrels to black bears -- and the twigs, leaves, and bark feed others.  The Horse-chestnut is a European species, planted for its beautiful spring flowers. Native Aesculus species, known as buckeyes, have the same showy flowers -- and all species have poisonous nuts. One native species, the Red Buckeye (Aesculus pavia) is a wonderful hummingbird plant, but for the most part buckeyes are not particularly attractive to wildlife.  In addition to junipers and oaks, there are many other good native North American trees for the wildlife habitat. Native pines provide cover for owls and chipmunks, sap for sapsuckers, nesting cavities for woodpeckers, and pine nuts for many birds and mammals. Native fruit and nut trees, including cherries (Prunus), walnuts (Juglans), dogwoods (Cornus), hackberries (Celtis), and others are all excellent and handsome choices.  Shrubs and Wildlife---Some shrubs are virtual wildlife magnets, offering nectar, berries, browse, and protective thickets for hiding. Which of the following shrubs would be the best choice for a native-plant wildlife garden?  Catawba Rhododendron Rhododendron catawbiense  Highbush Blueberry Vaccinium corymbosum  Oneseed Hawthorn Crataegus monogyna  The best choice among the three is Highbush Blueberry. Rhododendrons are among our most beautiful native shrubs, famously coloring our woodlands with their orange, fuchsia, and white blooms in spring. There are many native species, and they are wonderful choices for a native-plant garden. As for wildlife value, however, rhododendrons come up a bit short; they provide protective cover and nesting sites for birds and small mammals (and larger mammals if planted in dense stands) but not much else.  Our native hawthorns are excellent wildlife garden plants, providing ample food and cover, but Oneseed Hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna) is not native. It is a European hedge plant that has become naturalized in many areas of North America from coast to coast.  Our native blueberries, cranberries, and huckleberries (Vaccinium species) are extremely valuable wildlife plants. Their berries, as most of us know, can be juicy and delicious, a view humans share with the wide variety of animals that feed on them in the wild, including bears, porcupines, turkeys, quail, tanagers, bluebirds, foxes and chipmunks. Rabbits browse on the leaves and twigs. Many blueberries grow in dense thickets that provide cover and protection for numerous small mammals and birds. And as if that weren't enough, Vaccinium species are host plants for a number of butterflies, including some lovely sulphurs (Colias species).  North America is home to many other types of shrubs with high wildlife value. A few of them are snowberries (Symphoricarpos), Oregon-grape (Mahonia), currants (Ribes), raspberries and blackberries (Rubus) and other Ceanothus species, viburnums and elderberries (Sambucus).  Planting under a Tree---Follow these four steps to conquer this challenging site---You aren’t a fool for wanting to put a garden beneath a mature tree. It’s natural for a gardener to close his or her eyes and transform this patch of hard earth, sparse weeds and knobby roots into a shady nook lush with hostas, astilbes and jack-in-the-pulpits. And natural is good when it comes to gardening.  As with many endeavors, there is a right way and a wrong way to establish a garden under a tree. My own gardening has taught me that caution is required when planting beneath mature trees to avoid damaging their roots. I also know that the plants I choose will need to cope with dry soil, shade, root competition and ever-changing moisture and light conditions. Even if you aren’t a Master Gardener, being aware of a tree’s root system and cultural requirements allows you to create a garden where new plants and the tree will thrive.  Meet your tree's needs first.  Not all trees are created equal. Each requires specific light, soil and moisture conditions to survive and remain healthy. As you begin to plant your understory, make every effort to work with the situation you have. Some tree species, such as oaks (Quercus spp. and cvs., USDA Hardiness Zones 4–9), are extremely sensitive to major soil disturbance. Massive undertakings to alter the grade of the landscape or to change soil pH under a tree are difficult and often impractical. Adding a layer of soil that is more than 2 inches deep, for example, can reduce moisture and oxygen availabilities and hinder gas exchange to existing roots, causing trees to suffer or even die.  A tree’s root system and canopy also determine how easy or difficult it will be to install a garden under a tree. It can be particularly troublesome to work among the extensive surface roots of shallow-rooted trees such as maples (Acer spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) and elms (Ulmus spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9). The dense canopies and umbrella-like habits of trees such as conifers, Norway maples (Acer platanoides and cvs., Zones 3–7), and lindens (Tilia spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) not only block sunlight but also deflect rainfall. Only the toughest plants have a chance of surviving in such conditions.  Will my tree tolerate root disturbance?  Some trees are more agreeable than others about giving up some of their ground. You can still plant beneath trees that are sensitive to having their roots disturbed, but your plan may have to be scaled back or carried out over a few years. Here are groupings of some common trees according to how indulgent they will be of your efforts at their feet.  Be careful when disturbing Beeches (Fagus spp. and cvs., Zones 3–9) Black oak (Quercus velutina, Z 4–8) Buckeyes (Aesculus spp. and cvs., Z 3–9) Cherries and plums (Prunus spp. and cvs., Z 3–9) Dogwoods (Cornus spp. and cvs., Z 2–9) Hemlocks (Tsuga spp. and cvs., Z 3–9) Larches (Larix spp. and cvs., Z 1–8) Lindens (Tilia spp. and cvs., Z 3–9) Magnolias (Magnolia spp. and cvs., Z 3–9) Pines (Pinus spp. and cvs., Z 3–10) Red oaks (Quercus rubra and cvs., Z 5–9) Scarlet oaks (Quercus coccinea and cvs., Z 5–9) Sugar maples (Acer saccharum and cvs., Z 4–8)  Tolerates some disturbance Hickories (Carya spp. and cvs., Z 4–9) Hornbeams (Carpinus spp. and cvs., Z 3–9) Ironwood (Ostrya virginiana, Z 5–9) Redbuds (Cercis canadensis and cvs., Z 4–9) Red maples (Acer rubrum and cvs., Z 3–9) River birches (Betula nigra and cvs., Z 4–9) Sourwood (Oxydendrum arboreum, Z 5–9) Spruces (Picea spp. and cvs., Z 2–8) Swamp white oak (Quercus bicolor, Z 4–8) Sycamore (Platanus occidentalis, Z 5–8) White ashes (Fraxinus americana and cvs., Z 6–9) Is easygoing about disturbance Arborvitae (Thuja spp. and cvs., Z 2–9) Crab apples (Malus spp. and cvs., Z 3–9) Ginkgos (Ginkgo biloba and cvs., Z 5–9) Hawthorns (Crataegus spp. and cvs., Z 4–9) Honeylocusts (Gleditsia triacanthos and cvs., Z 3–7) Kentucky coffee tree (Gymnocladus dioica, Z 5–9) Poplars (Populus spp. and cvs., Z 3–9) Silver maples (Acer saccharinum and cvs., Z 4–9) White oak (Quercus alba, Zones 5–9) Willows (Salix spp. and cvs., Z 4–9)  Start with small plants to reduce soil disturbance.  It’s best for the tree if you disturb the soil only where you are installing new plants. If turfgrass is growing—or attempting to grow—under your trees, it needs to be removed. Avoid stripping the grass, which not only is backbreaking work but also damages a tree’s fine roots. Try instead to smother the grass with five or six sheets of wet newspaper, topped with a layer of organic mulch 1 to 2 inches deep. The downside of this method is that it may take two to three months to kill the grass.   When purchasing plants to grow under trees, think small. When you find the plant you want, buy it in the smallest size available. Smaller plants require a petite planting hole that will minimize the disturbance to tree roots. You may have to buy more plants, but you’ll have an easier time tucking them among the tree’s roots. Avoid damaging the trunk and any thick roots  Most trees have large major roots that extend several feet into the soil to anchor the plant against buffeting winds. The majority of a tree’s roots, however, are small woody roots and fine-hair roots that grow within the upper 12 to 18 inches of soil and extend far beyond the tree’s drip line (the farthest reach of its branches). These roots are responsible for absorbing water and nutrients from the soil.  If you encounter a root larger than 1 1/2 to 2 inches in diameter while digging a hole for a plant, move the planting hole a few inches away to avoid slicing through the root. You will sever mats of small tree roots when digging, but they will regenerate fairly quickly. Continue planting as you would for any other bed, spreading out the new plants’ roots as much as possible to ensure good contact with the surrounding soil. To avoid wounding the tree bark—an open invitation to insect and disease problems—start planting at least 12 inches away from the trunk and work outward.  When all plants have been installed, water the entire area to settle them and the soil. Then spread a 2- to 3-inch-deep layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips or bark chips, to conserve moisture and keep weeds down. The moisture that mulch can hold against a tree’s bark is conducive to rot and disease, so be sure to keep the mulch at least 12 inches asay from the base of the tree.  Proper planting is the key to success  1. Start small Using plants while they are still small is less of an intrusion on the tree’s turf. Begin planting at least 1 foot from the trunk and work outward.  2. Avoid roots If you encounter a root of medium size, move your hole to one side. The tree will appreciate its root staying intact, and your plant will enjoy some room of its own.  3. Water well Because your little plants with their tiny root systems are competing with a large, established tree, thoroughly water the area after planting and continue to do so, especially during dry spells, until your plants are established.  4. Add mulch An organic mulch can re-create the environment of the woodland floor, where trees normally coexist with plants at their feet. Keep the mulch away from the bark of  Help your new plants compete with the tree.  To ensure that your plants succeed rather than merely survive in their new spot, some aftercare is required. Water weekly when rainfall is inadequate. Continue to monitor soil moisture until the plants are established. Because they are competing with a mature tree for this precious resource, you may have to spot-water the plants if it appears that your tree is getting to the moisture first.  Avoid fertilizing for the first year after planting because it encourages more top growth than root growth, where new plants need to spend their energy if they are going to make it. If you suspect nutrient deficiency, get a soil test first to confirm your diagnosis. If needed, a general, slowrelease, balanced fertilizer, which benefits your large trees as well as smaller plantings, can be broadcast and watered in well. Annually applying a 2- to 3-inch-deep topdressing of organic matter (such as compost, shredded leaves, or well-rotted manure) to the soil in spring will add sufficient nutrients. In natural woodlands, plants grow in soils annually replenished with organic litter, such as leaves and twigs, which then decomposes and enhances the soil. Because we tend to remove this debris as it falls, applying the topdressing of organic material replicates nature without damaging tree roots. Over time, you’ll find that this organic matter provides many benefits. It naturally enriches the soil by adding nutrients and enhancing aeration and moisture-holding capacity. It loosens heavy clay, improves drainage, and allows your new plants’ roots to become established. Organic matter also encourages the activity of earthworms and other beneficial organisms that mix and aerate the soil.  By following this procedure, you’ll find your tree more amenable to sharing its territory, and the image of the shade garden you had in mind will begin to appear before your eyes.   When landscaping under mature trees, you will increase your chances of success by choosing plants that are suited to your site conditions. Here is a list of plants that can grow in the reduced light and moisture available under many trees.  Shrubs 1. Carolina allspice (Calycanthus floridus and cvs., Zones 5–9)  2. Ninebarks (Physocarpus opulifolius and cvs., Z 3–7) 3. Snowberry (Symphoricarpos albus var. laevigatus, Z 3–7) 4. Winterberries (Ilex verticillata and cvs., Z 5–8)  Perennials and grasses Black snakeroot (Cimicifuga racemosa, Z 3–8) Columbines (Aquilegia spp. and cvs., Z 3–8) Foamflowers (Tiarella spp. and cvs., Z 3–9) Japanese forest grasses (Hakonechloa macra and cvs., Z 5–9) Japanese painted fern (Athyrium niponicum var. pictum, Z 5–8) Lungworts (Pulmonaria spp. and cvs., Z 2–8) Siberian irises (Iris spp. and cvs., Z 3–9)  Garden tips Join the “greening” trend this season by “giving green” for the holidays. In the literal sense, there are those beautiful floral traditions of the season with potted poinsettias, amaryllis, Christmas cacti, Jerusalem cherries, azaleas, kalanchoes and more.   In your own backyard, wish for a white winter. Whether you like snow or not, our garden plants generally do. What we hope for is a gradual cool down until the soil freezes and plants become dormant. Then we want a blanket of several inches of snow that sticks around until spring thaw. Our plants’ worst winter nightmare is of a warm winter suddenly plummeting to temperatures in the single digits with no snow cover and fluctuating temperatures all winter long.  If you find the time this holiday season, there still are a few tasks to take on in the yard. Indoors use fresh and live holiday decorations liberally. Be sure to recycle trees and wreaths when it is all over. They can be chipped for mulch or used either whole for bird feeding stations or with branches stripped and used to blanket tender perennials and new transplants.  To dress up empty planters, branches may be pruned sparingly from evergreens and deciduous shrubs with colorful or interesting bark. As a general rule, major pruning is best done at the end of the dormant season in late February and March.  Needle-type evergreen boughs may be used to shield broadleaf evergreens like rhododendrons and boxwoods from sun and wind. Stick the stem ends into the ground to surround and protect small plants with a naturalistic look. Or use burlap and stakes to loosely surround but not completely cover them or create a screen especially on the windward side.  Evergreens growing close to roads where fast moving traffic produces a salty spray over the winter should also be protected.  Remove tall grass and weeds from the bases of trees, too. Protect trunks of young trees by wrapping. Spiral plastic trunk barriers or hardware cloth close to the trunk are the best options. Surround multi-stemmed and low branching trees and shrubs with chicken wire or hardware cloth held securely against the ground. It should be tall enough to protect branches as high up as a rabbit can reach when on its hind legs on top of a snow bank.  Combine several tactics to scare away animals that can damage your plants in the winter. Shiny, noisy, moving objects hung in the garden along with bags of human hair or soap can be used in addition to commercial repellents or ones prepared at home. Remember to reapply these substances often since most of them lose their potency quickly.  Check your yard, garage or tool shed for garden products and equipment that should be stored indoors for the winter. Liquids should not be allowed to freeze. Pesticides should be stored locked, out of the reach of children, and in their original containers. Plastic sprayers and rubber and vinyl hoses should be stored empty, preferably indoors.  Winterize your lawn mower by running the engine dry, draining and replacing the oil, cleaning the air filter, oiling the plug, and wiping clean the engine. Now is a great time to take it in for a tune-up and blade sharpening so it’s ready as soon as that first surge of growth comes in the spring.  Clean garden tools with a wire brush and apply a light coat of oil to protect them from rusting. Sharpen edges of hoes and spades. Clean, readjust and sharpen the blades of pruning tools. Lightly sand handles and then apply a coat of linseed oil.  If the ground is finally frozen an inch or so deep, it is now safe to apply winter mulches to newly transplanted or tender perennial flowers, roses and strawberries. This will insulate them from the cold above ground and help reduce the fluctuations of temperatures in the soil throughout the season, which can heave their root balls right out of the ground.    Surround rose bushes with chicken wire cages and fill with up to two feet of chopped, dry leaves or straw to protect them for the winter. Cover the base of the stems with several inches of soil or compost first and then place the chicken wire on top of the mound after it has frozen. Tie canes together with cloth strips or nylons to keep them from rubbing when they are blown by the wind. Do not cut them at this time. Wait until next spring when you will know how much was killed and therefore how much to prune out.  Mulch strawberries with straw, leaves, or evergreen boughs. Branches cut from a discarded Christmas tree are perfect either as the mulch or to prevent straw or leaves from blowing away.  Pile soil or compost over the crowns of garden chrysanthemums that are in very exposed sites for the winter. Then add inches of mulch on top. Whether covering mums or not, do not cut off dead stems until next spring.  A thick layer of straw over root crops like potatoes, parsnips, and carrots as well as parsley and leeks will protect them long enough to harvest them a little at a time well into the winter.  Cyclamen, Christmas cactus and azaleas are good choices for people who keep their houses cool. Also look for Jerusalem cherry, ornamental peppers, and kalanchoes. Be sure to cover them when transporting even a short distance - most are very sensitive to temperatures below 50 - 55 degrees.  Floral arrangements should be kept cool and out of the sun. Contrary to common belief, arrangements and cut flowers should be watered with very warm water, which contains floral preservative. Re-cut flower stem ends first and then condition them in a very cool spot for several hours before bringing them into warmer rooms. Every couple of days, re-cut the stem ends, wash the vase with soap, and refill with warm floral preservative water. Substitute non-diet lemon lime soda or vinegar and a drop of bleach if you don’t have preservative on hand   Check stored vegetables like tomatoes, potatoes, onions and garlic and non-hardy bulbs like canna, tuberous begonia, dahlia and gladiolus for mildew and rot. Remove affected items immediately.  Geraniums stored dry in the basement or attic for the winter should be checked and the root systems moistened. Do this monthly all winter.  Avoid rock salt, which is sodium chloride, to melt sidewalk and driveway ice. Products made of calcium chloride or potassium chloride cause less damage to plants, for traction, sprinkle sand, kitty litter, or wood ashes sparingly. Mix with a little melting compound if more than just traction is needed. Minimize de-icing and traction products to reduce pollution in storm sewers and streams.  Watch your new holiday gift plants closely. Most of them need bright but indirect light and moderate temperatures. Keep them out of drafts as well as away from the hot air from heat vents, fireplaces, and TV's. Keep the soil just slightly moist and do not allow them to stand in runoff water.  Adjust your indoor plant watering practices as needed according to the weather conditions. Plants use less water on cloudy days and during the short days of mid-winter. December 21st is the shortest day of the year. Cool conditions indoors may also mean less water is needed.  Groom indoor plants to clean leaves, remove fallen leaves and faded flowers. Cleaning removes dust and grease that can clog leaf pores. Hand dust large-leaved plants with a pair of old socks or gloves on both hands. Put a individuals or groups of plants in the shower if hand washing is not possible. To keep soil from washing away cover it with foil, newspaper or plastic.