Growing Tomatoes

Choosing the variety is important. No one variety will perform best across all planting seasons and regions. Issues such as fruit firmness, size, shape, flavour and plant growing habits need to be considered. You also need to decide whether you want a 'jointed' tomato variety or not. In other words, do you want a tomato variety that retains its stalk when picked or one that comes away cleanly from its stalk when picked. Many commercial organic and gourmet tomato growers choose 'jointed' tomato varieties because the tomato with its stalk attached looks attractive to the buyer. However, most home gardeners and non-organic commercial growers choose 'jointless' varieties.

The next choice is whether you want a 'determinate' or 'indeterminate' variety. A determinate variety grows to a bush about 1 metre (3 feet) high. At this stage it stops growing and sets a concentrated crop of tomatoes which can be picked over a few weeks. Indeterminate varieties keep growing and can reach a height of up to 5 metres (15 or more feet) when fully mature. Many cherry tomato varieties are indeterminate. There are also 'semi-determinate' varieties which grow to about 1.5 - 2 metres (4 - 6 ft) and set fruit over a longer period than determinate varieties.

Valuable watering tips

Water thoroughly to encourage the tomato roots to seek water and nutrients deep in the soil. With an extensive, deep root system, the plants will hold up better during dry spells. When watering, soak the soil to a depth of at least 15-20 cm (6-8 inches). Water only when your plants need it. Tomatoes like moisture, but overwatering is harmful. You not only waste water, but soggy soil will prevent the roots from getting the air they need. If your plants look a little wilted on a hot, summer afternoon, that's usually normal. If plants are wilted in the morning, don't wait -- water them! (However remember that certain diseases can also cause wilting.)

Water early in the day to cut down on evaporation losses and also to give your plants plenty of time to dry out. Wet foliage overnight may help trigger some diseases. With furrow irrigation, drip irrigation or soaker hoses, which all deliver water right at the soil surface and not on the leaves, you can water almost anytime. Try to avoid watering at midday though, because that's when evaporation losses are highest. Trickle irrigation is the most easily controlled method of irrigation. The equipment is expensive, but is long lasting and saves growers time. It can also be scheduled to deliver constant amounts of water, which can help reduce the incidence of fruit cracking. Use mulch to reduce evaporation, improve water spread and uptake by the plants and reduce disease caused by rain and water splash.

Fertilising for the Home Gardener - Starter Fertiliser

All plants enjoy substantial amounts of organic matter - manure or compost in the soil. Organic matter holds nutrients in the soil so that they are not lost through leaching. It increases the amount of water your soil can hold as well as microbial activity in the soil, encouraging earthworms and creating a wonderful healthy soil system that produces nice sweet tomatoes. Compost in the soil takes time to break down and release its nutrients- often up to 2 - 3 months. This means that if you want to use compost alone, it should be dug into the soil at least a month before you wish to plant your tomatoes. It often helps to add a bit of fertiliser (even if you have used compost) at 5cm (2 inches) below and 5cm (2 inches) to the side of where you plant your seedling.

All plants enjoy substantial amounts of organic matter - manure or compost in the soil. Organic matter holds nutrients in the soil so that they are not lost through leaching. It increases the amount of water your soil can hold as well as microbial activity in the soil, encouraging earthworms and creating a wonderful healthy soil system that produces nice sweet tomatoes.Compost in the soil takes time to break down and release its nutrients- often up to 2 - 3 months. This means that if you want to use compost alone, it should be dug into the soil at least a month before you wish to plant your tomatoes. It often helps to add a bit of fertiliser (even if you have used compost) at 5cm (2 inches) below and 5cm (2 inches) to the side of where you plant your seedling.

Understanding Fertiliser Units

All fertilizers are generally described by their analysis. P2O5 means phosphate in the oxide form, as opposed to phosphorus (used in Australia) and K2O is the oxide form of potassium whilst in Australia only K or potassium is used.

Understanding your soil

Tomatoes will grow in a wide variety of soil types and across a wide range of pHs although they prefer a pH between 5.5 - 6.8.In order to understand your soil type it is essential that you have an understanding of what pH is and how it may affect the nutrition of your tomatoes. The term pH defines whether your soil, is acid or alkaline. Most soils have a pH in the range 4.5 to 8.5. Tomatoes enjoy a slightly acid soil usually with a pH around 6.5. The availability (uptake of nutrients from the soil by the plant) of nutrients is affected by soil pH. This is amply demonstrated by the chart at Figure 1. pHs can be adjusted : lime will make the soil more alkaline and whilst making the soil more acid is more difficult, usually sulfate-based fertilizers (eg sulphate of ammonia) and acidic organic material will help.

Testing soil pH can be done simply by mixing soil and water and testing it using a pH meter, testing kit or litmus paper.

Manure Tea

If you feel that your tomato plants would benefit from a quick boost, then manure tea is a great way to encourage them. Keep the lid on the garbage bin, the brew smells and will attract flies.

Pruning your plants

With tomatoes it is important to maximise the efficiency of photosynthesis and limit the amount of disease. To do this the plant needs lots of light and airflow around it.

If a plant is properly pruned and supported, nearly every leaf will have access to the sun. Most of the nutrients and sugars produced are directed towards the newly developing fruit as well as the growing tip. Fruit production does not stop (unless the plant is affected by weather or is lacking in water). This results in ever decreasing fruit size in indeterminate tomato varieties. Determinate varieties are self limiting mainly because of their shorter growing season and more defined fruit setting period.

Those varieties that mature in less than 70 days normally do not require pruning. Pruning also increases plant health. The leaves of a pruned and supported plant dry off faster so that fungal and bacterial diseases have less opportunity to spread.

Essentially, staked and pruned plants have fewer problems with fruit rots and leaf spots because their leaves stay drier, and the plant has good airflow around it. Leaves and fruit should never be allowed to sit on the soil.

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