HOW TO SURF

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By rapmanual

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1 - Your First Board

At the beginning stage you will not need a long thin expensive surfboard. As a far a beginner goes I wouldn't want you to spend over $200 on your first board, just look out for foam and ignore discoloration and dings. You may also want to buy a soft surfboard so you can prevent yourself from injury

Your first board is going to be really big and thicker than pro boards. Why? Because it floats better duh. So get a 3 inch thick board about 7 feet long and for it's width, let it be a little shorter than 2 feet. Someone who weighs about 150 shout get about a 7' 4" board a little heaver at 170 and we're talkin 7' 6", twenty pound above or below and you should pick a board 2 inches bigger or smaller.

2 - Your first Surf Spot

As a beginner you should also pick a spot with easy rolling waves and a ton of depth. Don't be self conscious about picking the weak uncrowded waves, it will save you from more experienced surfers yelling at you to move anyway, so move to the places with none or little people.

3 - Your First Paddle

When you paddle out you want there to be no waves or little waves. Walk out in the water and when the water is up to your chest lay on your board. Stay as much to the middle of the board as possible, balancing your weight at the same time. Let your chest be inches above the center point.

You now want to cup your hands as to get resistance from the water and paddle yourself. Only lift your chest when you encounter unstable water (chop).

4 - Your First Duckdive

A wave that is over about 2 feet will require you to duck it instead of floating over. As it comes you should paddle as fast as possible into the oncoming wave, grab the sides of your board about a quarter from the top. This will cause the nose of the board to dip, you then put your head down into it. Just as your whole body goes under the water, use your legs to push the tail of the board down.

5 - Your First Time Catching a Wave

Sit with your board underneath your bottom in the middle of the board. When you see a nice wave coming, turn the nose of the board towards the direction of the beach. Lay on your board and paddle towards the beach. The wave will now start to lift you, shift your weight in the direction of the nose of the board so that it goes under water, cup your hands and paddle with as much resistance as you can. You're going to raise your chest now above the board. If done successfully, you will easily glide into the wave's trough.

6 - Your first time Standing on a board

You learned to paddle through the water and go through a trough. Just before the trough of the wave develops is when you will want to stand. First you will grab a hold of both sides of the board and push your self up. As you jump up you will want to sink your chest into your knees and put your arms wide out. stand up gradually and keep crouched, lean forward with one foot above the center of the board and one on the tail. Balance yourself as if on a bike.

7 - Tips

Just like when you swim, wait at least thirty minutes after a meal to swim.

Never surf alone, if you need help you will need someone

Stay fit, if unfit you will not function right on the board, be off balance and slow.

Paddle out only as far as you can swim back.

The sea is very unpredictable and calm can turn treacherous in seconds.

You must be a great swimmer to surf or you are susceptible to drown.

8 - Surf Preparation

Most surfers have great upper bodies, this is because they need to use their arms much more than the average person. A routine that a lot of surfers do is a lot of push-ups the morning before going out for a big surf. Alternately you can lift weights. Yoga will help with your flexibility. Pro surfers will also jog for half an hour everyday to build endurance.

9 - Surfboard Wax

Surfboard wax is wax for your surfboard. It helps you from falling off the surf board either through paddling or in standing surf. You put the wax on the spot where you will stand. You may also want to apply it on the sides of the surfboard where you will grip when you stand for a surf. A "surf wax comb" is a comb that you use when the wax becomes slippery again, you simply comb the wax so that it has it's former resistance. To remove surf wax use something thin and hard like a metal spatula, be careful not to hurt yourself. Alternately instead of surf wax you can also use "deck grip", which is a permanent stick pad that you put on your board. A lot of surfers only use a deck grip for their back foot, but you can use it for both feet.

10 - Surfboard Bag

In order to keep your board from getting dings and yellowing you must use a "board bag" to put your surfboard in when you stop using it. A "Day Bag" is for daily use, skip ones with no padding, get one with atleast 5mm protection. It must also be waterproof and make sure that it closes all the way around. "Travel Bags" have double the protection of Day Bags in the 10mm range and some allow you to pack more than one board.

11 - Surfboard Leash

A Surfboard attaches the surfboard to your leg, it is also called a leg rope. If the waves every get to dangerous, you always know that your board is still at the surface. You board will never get lost. And the number one reason is if you fall off the surfboard you never have to go back and retrieve it. It is connect from a bluig on the tail end of a board to your leg around the ankle.

12 - Surfboard Fins

Fins are on your board to help you steer. Either they will be removable or glassed on. They all are about the same curvature, but vary in size and flexibility. Fin Depth is how far the fin goes into the water, the more it goes into water the more control you will have. The length of base on the fin determines speed, the longer the more speed.

13 - Wetsuits

If you intend to surf for a while invest in a wetsuit. These are essentially body-suits made of neoprene that zip-up, the usually are cut short on the arms and legs. Sometime a wetsuit will have detachable arms and legs. They can be thinner or thicker depending on how much cold you can take. Your wetsuit should be tight, but not too tight. A wetsuit works be trapping a layer a water between the suit and the skin and uses the surfer's body heat to warm this layer.

14 - Types of waves

"Beach Break" waves are where wave break on the seabed.

"Point Break" waves break on rocky and jagged objects

"Reef Break" waves break over coral reefs

15 - How Waves are Made

Waves are made by wind causing ripples. The stronger the wind the larger the ripples. Waves will only form as large as the wind blowing on them.

16 - Surfer Wear

Dealing in water for a long time has led surfer's to develop their own style of clothing optimized for the sea.

A surfer wears sandals and flip flops instead of shoes

A surfer wears long swimming short or boardshorts instead of pants.

Sunglasses are worn to keep the sun from their eyes.

Sunblock is always used.

17 - Make your own Surf Wax

Ingredients:

Paraffin wax

Microcrystalline wax

Petroleum Jelly

Vistanex (Adhesive)

Scent and Dye - for look and smell

Mix all the ingredients together

6 parts Paraffin

2 parts microcrystalline

1 part petroleum jelly

1 part Vistanex

Melt all the ingredients at 100F.

Depending on you weather you may want to vary the ingredients. For colder water you increase the petroleum jelly and decrease the wax. For unusually warm water decrease the petroleum jelly and increase the wax.

18 - Organic Surf Wax

Ingredients:

beeswax

coconut oil

Mix 2250g of melted beeswax and stir 750ml of coconut oil into a cup and let it sit.

To make the organic wax even stickier try mixing:

80% beeswax

10% coconut oil

10% tree resin

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