– September 28, 2008

In the garden, Autumn is, indeed the crowning glory of the year, bringing us the fruition of months of thought and care and toil. And at no season, save perhaps in Daffodil time, do we get such superb color effects as from August to November.

Several gardeners reported that as they traveled around areas hit hard by the historic wind storm about two weeks ago, a recurring truth was evident: virtually all the trees that were shattered, toppled, or de-branched showed obvious signs of serious defects that forewarned the failures. Observations were not a matter of 20-20 hindsight; many of the defects could easily have been detected by an International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), Certified Arborist prior to the storm wreaking havoc. While the wind blew at record-setting velocities, the resulting catastrophic event termed "The Great Blackout" by the some gardeners was certainly helped along by flawed trees.

I hope that this will spark a lively discussion among the gardeners, may be tinged with a bit of frustration. The Pennsylvania Department of Natural Resources Urban Forestry program, as well as others, continually offer training programs and educational support aimed at making the public aware of the need to have trees professionally evaluated for structural weaknesses. The frustration focused on the question: "why are people not listening?"

Of course, I recognize that many do listen; trees are being evaluated. I must be careful to avoid inducing fear of big trees while elevating the awareness that big trees must be evaluated from time-to-time. The key is to equate tree inspections with the need to periodically inspect roofs, foundations, plumbing, etc. Another note is that tree care companies should consider using the wind event to market their services; no doubt the roofing industry will! Will people listen? The answer my friend, is blowing in the wind.

Greenhouses blowing in the wind-lessons learned-I made the rounds of area greenhouses in the days following the big wind event on Sunday, September 14. The wind damage was widespread throughout the county, with the worst seemingly in northwestern areas of the region. Gusts of up to 84 mph were reported. Trees and power lines were down everywhere, with 90% of power customers without power after the storm. Streets leading to 2 different greenhouses were still blocked by trees entangled in a power line last Wednesday and Thursday. The really interesting part of the event was its impact on home greenhouses and the lessons that might be gleaned from those effects. These included:

1) Backup generator power is essential. All but one hobby-greenhouse had lost power but all had generators. In most cases, those generators were able to provide the power necessary to provide many of the essential functions, such as operating vents and fans. One gardener had a greenhouse that was not connected to his backup system and thus could not close its vents. The tube steel of those vents was creased and they now cannot be closed. Another gardener reported that when her power went out, the poly on her double walled houses started to flap wildly due to the loss of pressure between the layers. She had to immediately re-inflate the double walls by hooking the squirrel cage fans up to extension cords to potentially prevent serious damage.

2) Preventing wind from getting inside of a house can be critical. Most glass-glazed houses came through the storm with amazingly little loss of glass panes. However, one suffered severe damage. That one was an older, mostly pre-WWII, made of cypress (with one redwood house constructed during WWII when cypress was not available), which lost 25-30% of its glass. It had an east to west orientation and the wind blew in the doors on the side of the house. The roof, due largely to its construction, vibrated extensively due to the wind entering through the doors, popping out a large number of panes. The loss of those panes enabled more wind to enter, further increasing the loss of glass. The internal shade cloth in another greenhouse range was totally shredded when the wind was allowed to enter through an open front that was connected to a display area. The cloth looked like silvery ribbons dangling from the trusses after its encounter with the wind.

3) Flying objects can do a lot of damage to people and structures. The walls of many poly houses were ripped by panels of sheet metal and glazing torn off of other greenhouses and buildings and hurled through the air like giant scythes. Other loose objects, such as stands, were blown into the sides of greenhouses. Thank goodness that no one was injured or killed. The potential was certainly there.

4) Container plants in outdoor beds are very vulnerable to wind damage. Many gardeners had extensive outdoor beds of mums and asters that were tossed about quite severely. Well, no great surprise. However, a large number of those plants were "de-potted," which was a surprise. Several gardeners reported that many hours were required to put the plants back into their pots. The good news - the plants themselves, although quite large, actually suffered very little damage. The vast majority were still in good shape.

5) It pays to think ahead. One homeowner purchased his greenhouse a few years ago. A dense row of generally very large, mature and some dead trees ran the entire length of the property. That row of trees was approximately 30 feet from the greenhouse. He had every one of those trees removed, at considerable expense, by last year. Had he not done so, there is a very strong possibility that his entire row of trees would have been destroyed. How close are trees to your home? Could limbs be blown onto your houses, cars or other out buildings even if the trees themselves remain standing?

Like that thoughtful and pro-active gardener, start thinking now about how to prevent unnecessary damage in the future. Assign priorities to auxiliary power. Be sure that any objects that could be blown about are secured or removed. Devise ways to prevent unwanted wind entry into your structures. Try to protect your outdoor container beds.

6) Finally, listen to the weather forecasts. A high wind advisory was issued that morning, stating that 30-40 mph winds might be experienced. Although the actual winds were far stronger than those predicted, there was certainly adequate notice that a significant threat to greenhouses was potentially heading their way.

Critter Tip: Groundhogs---Why do you still see groundhogs even after you've covered up the groundhog hole? Groundhog dens have many entrances; the main entrance is usually about 12" in diameter and will have a large mound while secondary entrances are usually well hidden and difficult to locate, having been dug from underground.

A Gardener's Guide to Frost Clear or Cloudy Sky?---Frost (also called white or hoarfrost) occurs when air temperatures dip below 32°F and ice crystals form on plant leaves, injuring and sometimes killing, tender plants. Clear, calm skies and falling afternoon temperatures are usually the perfect conditions for frost. If the temperatures are falling fast under clear, windy skies-especially when the wind is out of the northwest-it may indicate the approach of a mass of polar air and a hard freeze. A hard or killing frost is based on movements of large, cold air masses. The result is below-freezing temperatures that generally kill all but the most cold-tolerant plants.

Cloudy Skies: you may be in luck.

If the temperature is cool, but clouds are visible, your plants may be protected. During the day, the sun’s radiant heat warms the earth. After the sun sets, the heat radiates upward, which lowers the temperatures at or near the ground. However, if the night sky has clouds, these clouds will trap the heat and keep the warmer temperatures lower, closer to your plants, preventing a frost.

Wind?

Wind also influences frost. If the air is still and windless, the coldest air settles to the ground. The temperature at plant level may be freezing, even though at eye level it isn't. A gentle breeze, however, will prevent the cold air from settling and keep temperatures higher, protecting your plants. If the wind itself is below freezing, frost may be very damaging.

Moisture?

Humidity and moisture are good things when talking frost. When moisture condenses out of humid air, it releases enough heat to sometimes save your plants. When the air is dry, the moisture in the soil will evaporate. Evaporation requires heat, which removes warmth that could save your vegetables.

Location, location, location.

The location of your garden can have a tremendous influence on whether or not an early frost could wipe out your garden, but leave your neighbor’s alone. As a general rule, the temperature drops 3°F to 5°F with every 1,OOO-foot increase in altitude. The higher your garden, the colder the average air temperature and the more likely your plants will be hit by an early freeze.

However, lower isn’t always better. Cold air is heavier than warm air and tends to sink to the lowest areas, causing frost damage. The best location for an annual garden is on a gentle, south-facing slope that's well heated by late-afternoon sun and protected from blustery north winds. A garden surrounded by buildings or trees or one near a body of water is also less likely to become frost covered.

Soil.

The type of soil your garden is growing in also affects the amount of moisture it holds. Deep, loose, heavy, fertile soil releases more moisture into the surrounding air than thin, sandy, or nutrient-poor soil. The more humid the air is, the higher the dew point will be, and the less likely that frost will form on those plants. Heavily mulched plants are more likely to become frosted since the mulch prevents moisture and heat from escaping out of the soil and warming the surrounding air.

Know your plants.

The plant itself determines its likelihood of frost damage. Immature plants still sporting new growth into the fall are most susceptible-especially the new growth. Frost tolerance tends to be higher in plants with maroon or bronze leaves, because such leaves absorb and retain heat. Downy- or hairy-leaved plants also retain heat. Compact plants expose a smaller proportion of their leaves to cold and drying winds. By the same token, closely spaced plants protect each other.

Frost on its way?

If a frost is predicted, cover your plants, both to retain as much soil heat and moisture as possible and to protect them against strong winds, which can hasten drying and cooling. You can use newspapers, baskets, tarps, straw, and other materials to cover your plants. Cover the whole plant before sunset to trap any remaining heat. Be sure to anchor lightweight coverings to prevent them from blowing away.

Keep the soil moist by watering your plants the day a frost is predicted. Commercial fruit and vegetable growers leave sprinklers on all night to cover plants with water. As the water freezes, it releases heat, protecting the plants, even though they're covered by ice. To prevent damage, the sprinklers need to run continuously as long as temperatures remain below freezing.

Cold temperature effects on plants and vegetation.

FROST: Damage depends upon length of frost duration.

LIGHT FREEZE: 29 degrees F to 32 degrees F / -2 degrees C to 0 degrees C. Tender plants killed with little destructive effect on other vegetation.

MODERATE FREEZE: 25 degrees F to 28 degrees F / -4 degrees C to -2 degrees C. Wide destruction on most vegetation with heavy damage to fruit blossoms and tender semi-hardy plants.

SEVERE FREEZE: 24 degrees F / -4 degrees C and colder. Heavy damage to most plants.

Head Lice: Frequently Asked Questions

Vocabulary

* Louse: A single individual

* Lice: Multiple individuals

* Nit: The egg stage

* Nymph: An immature stage

* Crawling Lice: Nymph or adult lice (as opposed to eggs/nits)

* Infestation: Lice inhabiting the scalp and hair

* Nit comb: A fine-toothed comb that helps remove nits and crawling lice from the hair.

* Insecticide: A chemical that kills insects. Over-the-counter insecticides for lice are also known as pediculocides.

What are lice?

Lice are wingless, crawling insects that live on a host and feed on blood to survive. Lice are very host specific, and sometimes are site specific, so will be on specific part of the host's body. Humans are host to 3 kinds of lice – head lice, body lice, and crab lice, each of which inhabits a different region of the body.

What are the stages of the life cycle of head lice?

Egg – louse eggs are cemented to the hair shaft by an adult female louse. They are very small in size – some say the size of a knot tied on a string.

Nymph – a tiny immature stage of the louse that look like a small adult.

Adult – size of sesame seed (2-3 mm in length)

How long do head lice stay in each stage?

Egg – 8 days

Nymph – 9-12 days

Adult – 30 days

How do head lice spread from one person to another?

Lice are most frequently contracted by hair-to-hair contact. They cannot jump or fly. Head lice specifically infest human hair. Household pets cannot get infested, nor serve as a source of infestation.

How can we identify head lice in our hair?

Often the first sign of a louse infestation that a parent will notice is intense scratching of the scalp. Scratching is a reaction to louse bites, and to movement of insects in the hair. Intense scratching can be a result of a number of potential conditions, so it is critical to identify nits or crawling lice before proceeding with any treatment.

Look for head lice using adequate light and a magnifying glass. Look for the crawling nymphs or adults on the scalp by spreading the hair apart in successive clumps, and examining the hair close to the scalp. The crawling nymphs or adults tend to stay close to the scalp. When they are not feeding, they cling to individual hairs with specially adapted claws. They tend to avoid light, and move surprisingly quickly, so can be difficult to spot. Also look for nits while examining the hair. Nits are attached to the hair close to the scalp. We often see them about one-quarter inch from the base of the hair shaft, often close to the hairline that extends from ear-ear along the neck. Nits are easy to confuse with dandruff and other debris in the hair. They can be distinguished from dandruff or debris because they occur at a regular interval along the hair shaft (so multiple hairs will have an egg attached at ~1/4 inch from the scalp), and are cemented to the hair such that they are difficult to remove.

How long do head lice live when not on a human host?

Lice need to be in contact with the body of a host in order to survive and grow. They are very temperature sensitive (so need to be close to a warm body) and need to frequently feed on blood. Most head lice will die within 24 hours if they are off of a host.

Who can contract head lice?

Any person who comes in hair-to-hair contact with a lice-infested individual can contract lice. Head lice are most commonly seen on pre-school and school kids age 3-12. According to the Iowa Department of Public Health, kids can be placed into two risk groups related to lice infestation: 1) kids with head lice, and 2) kids at risk for contracting head lice.

Is a head lice infestation a result of poor personal hygiene?

It is a common misconception that head lice are a sign of being dirty. HEAD LICE ARE NOT A SIGN OF BEING DIRTY. Most of the children in the U.S. who are or have been infested with head lice are bathed regularly and wear clean clothing.

Do we need to take extra cleaning precautions of household carpets, upholstery, toys, etc, once we have identified head lice in the hair of a household member?

Treating the hair and scalp of infested individuals is the most important and effective way to control head lice. Treatment is accomplished with an insecticidal shampoo and/or by thoroughly removing nits by combing hair with a fine-toothed comb. Contact your medical provider or pharmacist or see the references listed below for specific product information.

Supplemental measures to control lice are generally not effective for two reasons 1) it is extremely unlikely that lice will survive off of a host for more than a day, and 2) it is exceedingly rare to find live lice on the bed linens – even of people who have extreme infestations with many lice. Therefore, it is unlikely that live lice will be on carpeting, upholstery, toys, etc. If you would like to use supplemental cleaning precautions, consider the lifespan of lice off a host, and clean just those items that have been worn or used by an infested person in the two days prior to when the infested person was treated. Wash and dry clothes with hot water and air, or bag and seal items in a plastic bag for 2 weeks – in the highly unlikely event that a nit is on the bagged item, a 2 week period will exceed the amount of time it takes an egg to hatch and the lifespan of a nymph.

If you have identified lice on a household member check the hair of all other household members regularly and avoid hair-to-hair contact with the individual who has the infestation.

Can head lice infestation reoccur even when we have properly treated for the presence of head lice?

Yes. Treatment for head lice does not prevent another infestation. Shampoos that we use for Control contain an insecticide that will kill nymphs and adults, but the effect is short-lived, and the insecticidal shampoo will not act as a repellant against future infestations. Lice infestation can reoccur if a person has hair-to-hair contact with another infested person.

Remember that lice are most commonly spread by direct hair-to-hair contact. To prevent re-infestation check school-aged children regularly for lice. The Iowa Department of Public Health recommends that parents spend 15 minutes per child, each week, checking for crawling lice or nits. If a school-aged child is infested, check all members of the household for lice. Avoid hair-to-hair contact with an infested household member.

What is the new news about superbug head lice?

There have been some recent headlines on ‘super lice’. This refers to a problem we currently are facing that lice appear to be developing resistance to over-the-counter, lice-killing shampoos. In this way, lice are like bacteria that are increasingly resistant to antibiotics. Human head lice do not transmit any diseases. They are tedious to treat, and distressing for parents and children, but they do not pose any risk in terms of transferring bacteria or viruses to the host.

Where can I get more information on head lice?

Information about the biology of lice:

* Centers for Disease Control and Prevention

* The Harvard School of Public Health

Information for health care providers and treatment recommendations:

* American Academy of Pediatrics

* American Academy of Family Practitioners

* National Association of School Nurses

* The National Pediculosis Association

Annual of the week is ORNAMENTAL CABBAGE and KALE (Brassica olerace) offer a fall contrast to chyrsanthemums and pansies for seasonal color. The cold-tolerant plants can help brighten the fall garden when almost everything else is looking sad and forlorn. Ornamental cabbage and kale are the same species as edible cabbages, broccoli and cauliflower but have much fancier and more colorful foliage than their cousins from the vegetable garden. These plants are grown for their large rosettes of colorful leaves, not the flowers. They are very showy and come in a variety of colors, ranging from white to pinks, purples or reds. Even though they are technically all kales (kale does not produce a head; instead, it produces leaves in a tight rosette), by convention those types with deeply-cut, curly, frilly or ruffled leaves are called ornamental kale, while the ones with broad, flat leaves often edged in a contrasting color are called ornamental cabbage. The plants grow about a foot wide and 15" tall.

Perennial of the week is LITTLE BLUESTEM - (Schizachyrium scoparium), (Andropogon scoparius). Little Bluestem, an attractive native prairie grass also known as BUNCHGRASS, gets its name from the bluish color of the stem bases in the spring. However, the most striking feature is the plants reddish-tan color in fall, which persists through winter snows. Slender, blue-green stems, appear in August, reach 3' by September, and become radiant mahogany-red with white, shining seed tufts in the fall.

Easily grown in any well-drained soil, Little Bluestem is drought tolerant and prefers full sun to light shade. Little Bluestem is often used in prairie restorations and is also used en masse in gardens. It readily reseeds so little bluestem is not recommended for small gardens. Little bluestem is a larval host and/or nectar source for skippers and butterflies. Two outstanding selections of Little Bluestem are 'The Blues' and 'Prairie Blues'.

Woody plant of the week is PURPLE BEAUTYBERRY - (Callicarpa dichotoma). This species of beautyberry is a small, rounded, deciduous shrub that puts on its best show in September-October. The 2-4' arching branches bear small pink to lavender flowers in summer, which mature into clusters of light purple berries in autumn. The fall foliage of Callicarpa dichotoma is yellow. It is easily grown in average, medium, well-drained soil in full sun to part shade. If grown in USDA Zone 5, the above-ground stems may not be reliably winter hardy and should be treated as an herbaceous perennial by pruning stems back to 6" in late winter each year. In warmer zones, prune in early spring if needed since the flowers bloom on new wood.

Beautyberry is striking enough to be used as specimen plants or grouped en masse in borders, under-plantings in open woodland areas or for bird gardens. Outstanding varieties include: 'Early Amethyst', with small purple flowers, and bright purple berries in late summer, growing 5-6' tall; 'Issai', with pinkish lavender flowers, and small lilac; and C. dichotoma 'Albescens', which produces white berries. C. americana, American Beautyberry is a native to the southeastern USA, hardy in USDA Zones 7-10.

The weekly weed/wildflower is ITCHIN for fall color. Bright red leaves adorn fence rows and tree trunks as POISON IVY (Toxicodendron radicans) colors up for fall. This irritating weed puts on a fine show with bright red leaves which drop to reveal climbing woody stems covered with aerial roots and whitish berries which can persist into winter. Make no mistake, even at this time of year all parts of the plant are still capable of causing the irritating dermatitis for which poison ivy is famous.

About 50% of people are sensitive to the resinous compounds, known as urushiols, that cause itching and raise blisters on exposed skin. The urushiols persist in living and dead plant parts and can even be carried on tools, clothing and pets to unsuspecting victims. These resins can remain active for up to a year providing a source for new irritation for months to come. Care should be taken to reduce exposure when cutting or clearing brush. Wear long sleeves and wash clothing exposed to poison ivy resins. Never burn poison ivy vines or wood with poison ivy vines attached as smoke can also carry urushiols.

Seedlings of poison ivy can be controlled with herbicides. Mature plants can be carefully pulled or cut. The mature vines will produce berries which are eaten by birds. New poison ivy seedlings are often found below areas in which birds roost.

New pest raises a stink---A new pest, the BROWN MARMORATED STINK BUG (BMSB), Halyomorpha halys was first identified in the eastern counties of Pennsylvania in 2001, they have spread across Pennsylvania into New Jersey, Maryland, Delaware, New York, Ohio West Virginia, and Virginia it then hitchhiked over to Oregon and California, where they are now established.

Both the nymphs and adult stink bugs attack seed pods by puncturing and disfiguring the fruits, making them bruise, crack, and ooze juice. Fruits of the Asian pear, peach, apple, raspberry, grape, and apricots can be rendered unmarketable if bugs are present. They are also pests of beans, soybeans, and ornamentals such as Buddleia, Rosa spp., honeysuckle, Paulownia, Norway maple, catalpa, and crabapple, by stippling the leaves. Because several overlapping generations occur each season, the bugs move from crop to crop, damaging fruits of multiple types of plants in each area.

Similar to the multicolored Asian lady beetle, they present a worse problem for homeowners because they collect in large numbers in the fall to spend the winter in a warm structure. If smashed, they emit a foul odor, so it is advised to vacuum the bugs or usher them outdoors instead of smashing them.

The BMSB looks similar to the brown stink bug and has probably been frequently overlooked. However it can be differentiated by the black and white banding on the antennae and along the edge of the abdomen.

Home space invaders---While the current warm temperatures do not support "fall is in the air," several gardeners reported that a number of fall arthropod home invaders are poised to make their way into homes. Indeed, some are already knocking at the door! These home-crashers include: CLOVER MITES (Bryobia praetiosa); HACKBERRY NIPPLEGALL PSYLLIDS (Pachypsylla celtidismamma); BOXELDER BUGS (Boisea trivittatus); WESTERN CONIFER SEED LEAFFOOTED BUGS (Leptoglassus occidentalis); ATTIC FLIES (a.k.a. CLUSTER FLIES) (Pollenia rudis); FACE FLIES (Musca autumnalis); ELM LEAF BEETLES (Xanthogaleruca luteola); and the most notorious of all, MULTICOLORED ASIAN LADY BEETLES (Harmonia axyridis).

I’ve seen adult western conifer seed leaffooted bugs beginning to congregate around the window screens and entrance to our home. The 1/ 2-3/4" long brown colored bugs spend evening hours buzzing around porch lights and occasionally they find their way into homes. Although adults have unusually long sucking mouthparts, they are not a threat to homeowners. The bugs are named for the flat, leaf or web‑like structures found near the end of the hind legs. These insects prefer to feed on the cones of Scotch, pitch and red pines, as well as Colorado and blue spruce. Homes near high concentrations of conifers trees may be more likely to experience a visit from these footloose nomads.

I also got questions from besieged homeowners waging swatting battles against hackberry gall psyllids. These gnat-like insects are usually the first to arrive in the fall, no doubt hoping to catch a few college games on the big screen! The tiny, dark brownish-red psyllids arise from galls formed earlier in the season on hackberry leaves. The psyllids look like miniature cicadas and hundreds may collect on and around window screens, possibly attracted by lights from within the home or by heat radiating from the home. Large numbers of buzz-bombing psyllids can be very annoying, and they may occasionally bite!

Boxelder bugs are 3/4" in length, narrow, and flat-backed. They are dark brownish-black and have three red stripes running lengthwise on the pronotum, the area behind the head. The bugs spend the growing season sucking sap from the leaves, tender twigs, and developing seeds of their namesake as well as other maples and ash trees. As fall temperatures cool, they may appear in large numbers near overwintering sites, which include cracks and crevices in foundations, openings around windows and doors, and gaps beneath siding.

The multicolored Asian lady beetle's habit of invading homes in the fall may seriously challenge this insect's "beneficial" status. This introduced predator tends to congregate on homes and other buildings in the fall and with little inducement, the aggregations may move inside. Although populations of this notorious home invader have been on the decline over the past few years, several gardeners said they have already seen a few of these insects gathering around structures, presumably planning a little breaking and entering.

The best way to deal with these home invaders is to prevent them from gaining entry in the first place. Find and seal-off entry points such as cracks around windows, doors, or utility pipes. Poorly attached home siding and rips in window screens provide an open invitation. Check homes for unprotected vents, such as bathroom and kitchen vents, or unscreened attic vents. Also, while in the attic, look for openings around soffits. Hackberry psyllids may require more drastic (and expensive) measures since the tiny insects can pass through "standard-size" mesh screens. Homes located near large numbers of hackberry trees may need to have standard screens replaced with smaller mesh screens.

Once inside the home, the best method to manage the offending invader is to as one gentleman gardener said "Hooverize'em." Swatting or otherwise smashing the invader could cause more damage than leaving them alone since fluids inside their bodies can leave permanent stains on the surface. Thus, the vacuum cleaner is the preferred method for giving the invader the bums rush. However, make certain the vacuum cleaner is a "by-pass" type, meaning refuse is not passed through an impeller. Otherwise, you will create a horrifying bug-blender.

Tangled webs---questions concerning spiders are on the rise. Some of the more interesting spiders currently being seen include FUNNEL WEB SPIDERS (Family: Agelenidae) and ORB WEAVERS (Family: Araneidae). Funnel web spiders produce large, flat, sheet-like webs spun across grass, under rocks or boards, or over the branches of shrubs such as yews and junipers. The webs slope gently towards a narrow funnel or tube where the spider resides, awaiting its next victim. The spiders are medium-sized and resemble small wolf spiders. Funnel webs can become very evident when covered by early morning dew, or when they snare dust during droughty conditions.

Orb weavers are the true master engineers of the spider world. They spin vertical round gossamer webs with radiating spokes of structural silk covered by a spiral of sticky silk. Travelers in may be treated to the beautiful early morning view of dew-covered orb weaver webs shimmering in fields along roadways. Two of the more common orb weavers on display right now are the large YELLOW-AND-BLACK ARGIOPE (a.k.a. common garden spider) (Argiope aurantia) and the BARN SPIDER (Araneus cavaticus).

Yellow-and black Argiope spiders have a leg span that can exceed 2". The legs are black with reddish or yellow bands. The mostly black abdomen is conspicuously marked with yellow or yellowish-orange spots and bands. This spider is active during the day and usually spins its web in tall weeds. Their webs sport a distinct zigzag pattern of dense silk in the center of the web. Barn spiders are medium-sized round spiders with mottled light brown to black markings. They have a distinct marking on the underside of their abdomen that is pitch-black with two yellowish-white marks along the edge of the black background. These are nocturnal spiders and they construct their orb webs in the evening, and then they consume their webs in the morning. This spider is often encountered in doorways in the morning, hanging where there was no spider the day before.

Although there are several insecticides labeled for spider control, this is not a recommended practice. Spiders are important in reducing insect pest populations. Homeowners are urged to practice restraint, appreciation, and understanding. Aside from providing free Halloween decorations, spiders also provide a great service by reducing the need for controlling more significant pests.

Peonies blotch again---Fall is the time for a good garden cleanup especially if recurring diseases plague certain plants. Such is the case with PEONY LEAF BLOTCH (Cladosporium paeoniae). Also referred to as measles or stem spot, this fungal pathogen infects peony early in the season causing reddish-brown streaks or spots on the stem. As infections multiply, larger circular purplish lesions will appear on leaves. Leaves may become distorted and the plant may take on a blackened appearance.

Fungicide sprays can be used earlier in the season, but management begins with a clean-up of infected material now and throughout the season. Cut the stems to the ground and remove from the landscape. Next spring remove all remaining dead peony stems from the bed before new leaves emerge. Prune surrounding plants to enhance air circulation and prune out infected leaves as they appear during the season.

Woollybear Facts---The common moth Pyrrharctia isabella is known by different common names at its two main life stages. The adult is the Isabella tiger moth and the larva is called the banded woolly bear. The larvae of many species of Arctiid moths are called "woolly bears" ("wooly bears", "woollybears") because of their long, thick, furlike setae. This species is black at both ends with a band of coppery red in the middle. The adult moth is dull yellow to orange with a robust, furry thorax and small head. Its wings have sparse black spotting and the proximal segments on its first pair of legs are bright reddish-orange.

The banded woolly bear larva emerges from the egg in the fall and overwinters in its caterpillar form. It survives winter freezes by producing a cryoprotectant in its tissues. Once the weather warms, the larva devours all the grass and weeds it can, pupates and becomes an adult, which then lives through the summer. It is the larvae of this species, which are the subject of common folklore, which has it that the forthcoming severity of a

winter can be predicted by the amount of black on the caterpillar; this is the most familiar woolly bear in North America.

The setae of the woolly bear are not urticant, but they will play dead if picked up or disturbed.

A Catalpa Tree That Just Won’t Die---Catalpa (Catalpa speciosa, also called Indian-bean or cigar tree) has some attributes, but it’s not my favorite tree. The large, yellow-green leaves are unattractive to my eye. The fall palette is limited to mousy yellows and browns. The wood is soft and brittle. On the plus side, the large clusters of white flowers create quite a display in June, and the wood is very durable, making good fenceposts.

Native to the central Mississippi valley area, catalpa has become naturalized throughout most of eastern North America, especially in riparian areas.

The trunk of one such tree broke years ago. I cut down the failed tree, which leaned over a trail, to remove a potential hazard. That was that, or so I thought at the time.

Last week, while removing invasive Microstegium in the vicinity of this tree, I was surprised to notice one small branch of this cut tree still living. A small strip of bark connected the area of the branch to a place where the cut of the tree rested on the ground. Elsewhere on the cut tree, all the bark had fallen off. I tentatively concluded that the cut tree had taken root, just enough to keep one small branch remarkably alive several years after being severed from the tree’s original root system.

The low-cut stump of this tree, about sixteen inches in diameter, is on the stream-side of the trail. Twelve stems sprouted from the original root system at the stump. Some of these stems are now fifteen feet tall, with a few long “beans” dangling from the tallest. Judging from the sprouts, I would say I cut the tree down at least five or six years ago.

The rest of the tree is on the other side of the trail. The cut side right by the garden path is about ten inches in diameter. Several feet farther from the trail and growing up from this old tissue is the surprisingly living branch, which still bears slightly undersized but easily recognizable catalpa leaves.

So when I will plan to walk in the lower area later this fall, I might look for this catalpa that just won’t die.

Movin’ Your Houseplants Back Indoors---Sure, your houseplants have had it pretty good for the past few months – basking in the sun all day then staying out all night. But the party’s over, and it’s time to bring them back indoors!

Let me be honest with you for a moment. I don’t look forward to moving all my houseplants back indoors. For years I’ve lugged my enormous palms outside every May. I drag a hose to water them – never having to worry about accidentally watering my wood floors or making a mess while preening them. They’re so easy to groom them when they’re outside. I just take a pair of sharp scissors and snip off the brown tips. The cuttings just blow away, so I’m not dragging a vacuum around the living room! Yes, my party’s over too. It’s time to lug them back indoors for their long winter respite.

But before they come in through my front door, I carefully inspect them for any problems. That’s because it’s so much easier to deal with any plant problems outside. It’s easy to do. Just look at your plants in the sunlight and inspect them for any signs of insects. Because it’s so much brighter outside, chances are you’ll spot a problem more quickly and easily outside! Be sure to check all over for problems – and that means turning over the leaves and looking for any issues on the undersides and along the stems. Insects can be very clever, so inspect carefully.

Another thing I always do to help me find any hidden problems is to wash off my pots with a strong stream of water. Then I take a towel and wipe the pots from top to bottom and under the rim. These are all potential hiding places for slugs, sowbugs and other pests. Also, I make sure to get rid of the leaf litter that can collect on the top of the soil. I don’t want any freeloading pests to hitch a ride inside to enjoy a warm winter hiding spot!

Did you find something bugging your houseplants? If you’re not sure what the pest is, call me or take it into your local garden center. Make sure the sample is adequate (the larger the sample, the better) for identification or diagnosis. Once you know what the problem is, you can determine a course of action.

Not every problem requires treatment. But, if you need to spray, make sure the product matches the problem. There are many insecticides to select from – chemical or organic. Whatever your preference, it’s imperative you read the label first! When you spray, do so outside in a shady location (never spray your houseplants in full sun or damage can result). As soon as the plants are dry, it’s time to bring them indoors.

Remember, plants need to adjust to the indoors again. Different light levels, lower humidity – it’s all part of the adjustment period. For best results, attempt to duplicate the same light your plants had outdoors. Also, avoid the temperature extremes. Keep plants away from icy, cold drafts and the hot, dry air from radiators and forced-air heaters. Don’t be surprised if some leaf drop occurs during the adjustment period. It’ll take about six weeks or so for your plants to get used to being back indoors.

When it comes to watering after you bring your plants inside, it can be a little tricky. This is what I do to help the problem: I give them a last outdoor watering to thoroughly flush out any salts from my regular fertilizing program. I enjoy this because it’s the last time I can be sloppy with my watering! Once they’re back indoors, I’m careful not to overwater. How do I know when they need water? I just stick my finger several inches into the soil. If the soil feels dry, I water. If not, I don’t! The plants will tell you if they’re thirsty if you check. You really can’t go by a regular watering schedule.

And just like when your plants were outdoors, be sure to inspect your plants regularly for any signs of pests. If I find any, I treat the problem as soon as possible. If it becomes too big to handle, I pitch the plant. I just don’t think it’s worth infecting all my other plants. Plus, there are plenty more to choose from at my local garden center. For me, it’s an acceptable excuse to buy a new plant or two.

Don’t forget, between all the watering and inspecting, sit back and enjoy the plants. They can really add a lot of life to your great indoors – especially when it’s too cold to garden outside.

Warnings

* Don’t get caught with your “plants” down. An early frost could spell big trouble if your houseplants are still outside when the thermometer drops. Move them in before it’s too late!

Tips

* I let most of my plants slow down for the winter. From November until late February, I don’t fertilize at all. After eight months of regular feeding, they need a rest.

* Inspect plants before you bring them indoors! Why bring six-legged and other problems in for the winter months?

All About Whiteflies---Say hello to an adult whitefly. Whiteflies are tiny pests that can become big problems for your garden. Not only does their feeding damage your plants, they can also transmit plant viruses. This can add up to headaches for growing tomatoes and other plants. The most common species of this garden pest are the banded-winged, greenhouse, silverleaf and sweet potato whiteflies. Unfortunately, all these species have somewhat broad host ranges.

Adult whiteflies resemble tiny moths and are covered with a white waxy powder. They’re rarely more than 1-3 millimeters long and are typically found on the undersides of leaves. Immature forms have a scalelike appearance and are sometimes mistaken as scale insects.

Bandedwinged whitefly (Trialeurodes abutilonea) adults have brownish bands across their wings, and their body is gray. Greenhouse whitefly (T. vaporariorum) adults hold their wings flat over their bodies. The pupa has sides that are parallel to each other with hairs covering it. Silverleaf whitefly (Bemisia argentifolii) is a bit smaller and more yellow. Its wings are held rooflike at about a 45-degree angle. The pupa case is more domed-shaped, with a few random hairs. Sweet potato whitefly (B. tabaci) is similar to silverleaf whitefly, with adults holding their wings in a rooflike manner and dome-shaped pupa with few random hairs.

What kind of damage do whiteflies cause?

Adult female whiteflies insert their eggs into the leaf tissue of a plant. A minute larva in the “crawler” stage hatches out and begins to feed on this leaf tissue by inserting its mouthparts into leaves and sucking sap from the plant tissue. At this stage, the pest is called a scale (not to be confused with a scale insect, which at this stage it resembles greatly). While feeding, a sticky waste substance is excreted by the insect (commonly called honeydew). This liquid adheres to leaves and provides a medium for sooty mold to colonize and grow. Sooty mold is black and eventually covers leaves and stems. This mold inhibits infected portions of the plant from photosynthesizing and also causes aesthetic damage.

After growing through several life stages, the larvae finally enter a pupal stage. Here, becoming sexually mature, whiteflies take on the adult form and eventually emerge as winged adults.

Infested plants are seemingly chlorotic (turning yellow), causing some plant varieties to have a silvery appearance. Whiteflies also produce honeydew. This sweet, sugary liquid adheres to leaves and promotes a black mold (known commonly as sooty mold) that colonizes and grows on the leaf surface. Sooty mold eventually covers leaves and stems. It inhibits infected portions of the plant from photosynthesizing, as well as causes aesthetic damage. Ants are often present as well – they feed on the sugary honeydew waste droplets.

House plant of the week is crotons--- Colorful crotons in the landscape are a sure sign of warm climates. Codiaeum variegatum is an evergreen shrub native to Malaysia and islands of the eastern Pacific. Batik is a dark-leafed, small, spreading variety. The star-shaped flowers are produced on long stalks but are insignificant. The brightly-hued foliage is the attraction. Batik’s leaves are linear with bluntly, rounded tips, arranged spirally around the stems. The new leaves emerge light green with streaks of yellow and mature to dark green overlaid with red and orange or yellow veins.

Crotons grow best in well-drained soil and in full sun to partial shade; in hot sunny climates they look best if shaded from the hottest sun of the day. Provide plenty of room for growth, crotons can be pruned by hand but are ugly sheared. Crotons are frequently grown as houseplants in colder climates and in the landscape in frost-free regions. Crotons make excellent accent plants, hedges and tub specimens.