How To Hem A Garment

A hem is a finish for a raw edge of a garment. A hem can be made in various widths. Usually 1- 3 inches works with most garments. The hem finish and width depends on the fabric and the style of the garment. Examine the fabric for raveling quality and weight. It will help you determine the type of hem you want to use. Check some of the hems on garments in your closet on different types of fabrics. This will help you determine the correct type of hem for your garment and fabric. There are also a variety of stitches to use when hemming a garment.

These are a few of the many different types of hems;

• Hem With Seam Binding
• Tailor's Hem
• Stitched and Turned Hem
• Machine Stitched Hem
• Hand Rolled Hem
• Narrow Hand Sewn Hem
• Dressmaker's Hem
• Catch Stitched Hem
• Faced Hem
• Hem With Mitered Corners

This type of hemming is best used with fabrics that ravel. Trim the hem evenly and stitch along the edge. Stitch seam binding to raw edge of the fabric. Pin the hem in place. Slip-stitch (tiny hand stitches taken through and under the fabric) the hem in place. Remove the pins.

This works best on heavier fabrics that do not ravel. Trim the hem to an even width and stitch1/4 inch from the edge. Pin the hem in the garment starting with matching up the seams and working from the seam. Baste (large, loose temporary stitches handsewn in a contrasting color) hem in place about 1/2 inch from the upper edge. Fold upper edge back and sew hem in place with invisible stitching. Do not pull too tight. Once you press the hem you will see the stitches are between the hem and the garment and barely show on the outside. They are nearly invisible. Remove any basting that shows.

This hem is best on light weight fabrics that do not ravel and are not bulky. Trim the hem to an even width and turn the edge under about 1/4 inch. Stitch along the folded edge. Baste the upper edge of the hem to the garment. Finally use a slipstitch to hold the hem in place. Take out the basting stitches when done.

This type hem is good for shirts and blouses. Stitch 1/8 inch from raw edge. This will keep the hem in place. Turn under the raw edge on the line of stitching and then turn under again. Stitch in place.

This type of hem is great for sheer or fine fabrics. Turn under the edge about 1/8 inch and stitch very close to the edge. Turn under the fold edge again the same width and pin or baste in place. Finally slip-stitch the hem in place.

You may also want to try a hand rolled hem for very sheer fabric. Stitch about 1/8 inch from the edge of the fabric with a sewing machine. Trim very close to the stitching. Rolling the fabric between your thumb and fore-finger hem in position with a slip-stitch. Make your stitches very small as you move around the hem.

This is a hem you can use on almost any fabric except fabrics you put into a washing machine. Once you have trimmed the hem to an even width,stitch along the edge. Overcast (a small slanting stitch over the raw edge of the fabric) the edge if the fabric tends to ravel. You can also use a machine made zig-zag stitch. Pinking also works. Baste and then sew the hem into position with invisible stitching as mentioned in the tailor's hem directions. (SeeAbove)

These are just a few ways to hem a garment. If you do not sew and are uncomfortable trying, it may be best to have a tailor or seamstress handle the hemming for you. Many cleaning establishments employ a seamstress. Check with your friends to find a reputable establishment. The cost is well worth the finished product. The finished product will be professionally done.

"SEW" go ahead and try your hand at hemming a skirt or pair of slacks. You may be more talented than you think. The following Youtube video is a great help to get you started.

Happy sewing everyone!