The secret to planting a tree is digging a hole at least twice as big as the root ball on the tree itself, or, as landscapers sometimes say, "Dig a $500 hole for a $50 tree."

It isn't hard to plant a tree, but it is work.

Here are the basic steps:

1. Choose the right tree for the right place. This is the most important part of the entire process. You can dig a million dollar hole, but if you plant a delicate shade-loving understory tree like a dogwood in full sun in mid-July and then never water it, you're wasting your time. When choosing a tree and a location for the tree, keep the tree's full size in mind too. Don't plant a tree right next to a foundation, a fence, or directly under a power line. (I've seen city street crews do this so many times now that I'm convinced they do it on purpose to promote job security. Plant the trees now, cut them down in a couple years.)
   
2. Plant in the spring or fall if possible. It's not true that you can't plant a tree in the summer, you can and it can be fine. It's just that you will have to water the tree daily and really keep and eye on it or it will die. I have personally planted trees that lived as early as March and as late as November. Planting in the spring or the early fall will increase your chances of success because it is easier for the ground to retain moisture during those months.
3. Dig a hole at least twice the size of the root system. Your hole doesn't have to be lots deeper than the roots, but it needs to be twice as wide. Most trees have shallow root systems that spread horizontally. If you plant your tree in too small a hole, the tree can become root bound or the roots can 'girdle' tje tree, which means they circle the trunk and strangle it.
   
4. Place a pile of one part dirt, one part manure, and one part peat in the botton of the hole. Make a mound of this loose soil mixture, and spread the roots over the mound. If you are planting a potted tree, loosen the roots and spread them. You may need to use a pitchfork or spade to do this. If you are planting a ball and burlap tree, cut the burlap but leave a circle of it on top (this will act as mulch, keeping moisture in) and spread out the roots over the soil.
   
5. Fill in the hole around the tree, but don't bury the trunk. See the diagram above to get an idea of how high the soil should come on the trunk. You want to stop right where the roots begin to flare out.
   
6. Water the tree well with high-phosphorus root stimulator. This is very important. Root stimulator is sold in garden centers in gallon containers in liquid form. Fertilome makes great root stimulator; it's the only one I ever use, and you can use it on everything: trees, shrubs, perennial flowers, you name it.  You mix the root stimulator with water and feed it to the tree at regular intervals the first year. This stimulates the root system to grow more rapidly, which anchors the tree so it can sustain itself the following year. Most people lose trees because they stick them in the ground and then never water them, so the roots never get a chance to get established.
   
7. Check your tree regularly for water. Stick your finger down into the soil around the tree twice a week or so. The soil should be moist but not wet about an inch down. If it is dry, the tree needs water. Keep in mind that you need to soak the ground thoroughly, not just wet the top layer of soil.
   

That's it. Those are the basic steps.

Anyone can plant a tree, and once you've done it, you'll be surprised by how satisfying it is to watch the tree grow. When you plant a tree, you establish a sort of bond with the plant, and everything that happens next becomes more important. Even better, you start to notice other trees you never even thought about before. I know lots of people who name their trees--which is a bit beyond the pale for my taste--but my point is that planting a tree really changes your relationship with trees and with nature in general.

Give it a try. You can do it. You really can!