Why am I writing about this topic

Well, first of all I am all about appearance. You of course feel as good as you look. Need I say more...

These are tips on how to order a custom made suit that I have picked up over the years and would like to share them with you. They will work by the way no matter what region of the World your tailor is in, whether it be Hong Kong, Taiwan, Bangkok, India, Singapore the UK or the US.

"Old School vs New School"

The new generation's Mantra is just basically wear it and throw it away and buy a new one. I can remember asking my late grandfather about a suit or a pair of pants he would ramble on an on about how much junk was out there. He would say "you never saw Ole Blue Eyes, Dino or Sammy wearing a piece of junk." "They always looked like a million bucks." He always told me when growing up just as you choose your wife or girlfriend wisely, choose your suit the same way make sure it's the right fit. What a wise man he was. God rest his soul, but whether you are young or old their is no debating that the guy in the room with a well made suit always gets the attention no matter if he's handsome or not, it also shows that he has good character and great taste.

Don't get me wrong, you can still buy a quality suit off of the rack but it will not fit you asymmetrically. Everyone tends to either have one arm that is longer than the other or a shoulder higher than the other, that is what a tailor made suit does it fits you proportionally. Now a days the a typical customer is your sports athlete usually because of their muscular or large body frame. But custom made suits are for all body types and with the right suit type it can even make a very slim person look good. Not to say that you cannot find a good premade suit right off of the rack and look good in it but just as their is a difference between an econo car and a high performance one. So do you get the picture? On how to order a custom made suit is similar to econo and high performance.

What should you spend?

Spend what you can afford of course stay within your budget. There are basically 4 types of suit categories.

1. Bespoke - Is custom made the word Bespoke originates from and old tailoring term meaning that a certain fabric has been “spoken for” by a customer and is therefore no longer for sale. Fully custom made with multiple fittings. price ranges from $1,000 - $25,000

2. Made to measure - Adjustments made to a standard pattern according to your measurements. More alterations upon delivery, very good fit. price ranges form $1,000 - $8,000

3. Off the rack altered - Manufactured to a standard pattern; altered after purchase; pretty good fit price ranges $200 - $6,000

4. Off the rack- Premade suit bought off the rack and standard size. You can get limited alterations if you take it to a tailor. price ranges $200 - $6,000

Travel the World

I must mention I have ordered suits in various parts of the World other than the USA or UK with extremely good craftsmanship. However to separate the bad from the good and yes even sometimes the ugly, you must request and expect certain qualities from your tailor and you will get very good results. No matter what language your tailor speaks good craftsmanship is universal in any language. Another very inportant tip on how to order a custom made suit is that when you properly ask the right questions about the production of your suit the final outcome will be a properly made tailored suit, one that you will be very pleased with.

Finding the right style

First you will have to find the right style. A suggested way to get ideas in finding the right style. You can either start by trying to use existing designs. Italian designs are the most well known or you can look in popular magazines such as GQ or you can reference online periodicals all are great resources to get you in tune with the right style to accommodate your body type. A good tailor can easily imitate a picture or design to your own specifications and can change the fabric to keep in line with your budget or color scheme.

"Suit types to accommodate different body types"

Single Breasted or Double Breasted Suits these suits most commonly makes the wearer look slimmer. On single-breasted suits, a two or three button closure is standard however more buttons are appropriate according to your height but you probably should never get more than three. Four or six button closure are standard for Double Breasted suits, though six is considered to be more stylish.

Two or Three Piece A coat and trousers worn with a vest isn't really seen too much these days it is nowadays considered to be kinda formal but it is still a desired look for some professionals. The more common look on today's professional is the "business suit" it consists of shirt and trousers.

Single or Double Vent single vent are classic American. The double vent with the vents off to the sides are classic English.

Natural or Padded Shoulders this of course depends on the natural broadness of your shoulders you of course want your suit to follow the line of your body. So of course if you already have broad shoulders you don't want to add to them you might get shoulders resembling Frankenstein's little brother.

Peak or Notched Lapels are pretty much standard on the American single-breasted business suit, though peaked lapels are the more stylish. Peaked lapels give the illusion of added height. Take into consideration that double-breasted suits should always have peaked lapels.

Selecting the right Fabric

When you go to a tailor suit shop you will see yards and yards of fabric. This can of course be overwhelming. Don't be overwhelmed their are many styles but you should be more concerned with the different kinds of fabric and not the styles. In this section is a very crucial important tip on how to order a custom made suit and select the right type of fabric that best suits the occasion that you will wear your suit in and of course that will add to the rest of your wardrobe. Of course a charcoal grey would go great for an interview. You will have the opportunity to choose from any number of fabrics including wool blends, silk or even cashmere. Make sure you not only look at but also touch the fabric swatches or samples to get a more accurate idea of what will work for you.

"Select as highest quality grade of fabric that your budget can afford"

if you select the right grade and quality of fabric for your suit style and budget this will of course give your suit the best look and also increase the lifetime of your suit.

Get a quote from the tailor

Get a quote from the tailor when you have all the specifications. Obviously, the prices can vary from place to place and the actual cost of the tailors services for measuring and fitting can also vary dramatically. Get an all-inclusive cost for your customized suit.

"don't forget to schedule your fittings"

Set aside time to have a professional fitting and discuss the various options with the tailor. Obviously, the right fit is the essential part of a tailor made suit and should only take a couple of minutes with a professional.

When discussing any design modifications.

discuss the various options with the tailor. Obviously, the right fit is the essential part of a tailor made suit and should only take a couple of minutes with a professional. Below are just some things to consider.

Multi cuts in the US and the UK tailors generally do not participate in what is called multi cuts. The purpose of a multi cut is to save time. It is when a tailor cuts a particular suit piece in multiples. For instance they will cut a size 32 pair of pants and maybe cut 4 or 5 pieces all together at one time. Multi cuts causes the pieces when stitched together to be uneven or lopsided when sown. It is visible if you look at the seat of the pants on the inseem stitch and you will sometimes see the flange uneven one side bigger than the other. This causes complications later. Let's say you pick up some weight and you later want to get them taken out. Multi cutting is common practice in Asia so be sure to ask your suit sales representative if their shop uses this procedure.

Canvas Lining be sure to ask if your suit will have a hand stitch canvas lining when someone looks at your suit it is very noticeable and a trademark of a well tailored made suit. In most ready made suits, the lining is a piece of synthetic material fused to the fabric with vegetable glue, resulting in a lifeless shape prone to puckering. A custom suit’s lining is made of canvas stitched in by hand, giving the suit a more defined structure in addition to longevity and greater comfort.

Real Silk Interior be sure to ask if your suit will have a silk interior in the color or pattern of your choice or ask your tailor is this an extra cost.

Working buttonholes on the sleeves or surgeon cuffs

"The Right Fit"

Suit Jacket the suit jacket length should be able to cover the posterior with a half inch to spare.

Collar should fit snugly around the back of the neck and not hover in the air above it.

Lapels Lapels should lie flat against the chest and not pucker outward.

Sleeves they should fall in a straight line over the shoulders, particularly the inseem where the shoulder and sleeve is joined. also not stick out an extra inch beyond the shoulders, and they should not form a dent of extra fabric at the top of the sleeve. Sleeve length should fall to the wrist, not the beginning of the hand. A small amount of shirt cuff should show.

Pants or Trousers Pants should fall straight from the waist with no wrinkles or pulling over the belly and no tugging in the crotch. If pleated, the pleats should not pull apart. The inseam of pants should break slightly on the shoe, but excess fabric should not bunch up around the ankles.

more resources:

Custom Tailors Designers Association of America link